The Sega Naomi Thread

[69mustang]

Like it?

Yes, that is cool panel. Is that a flap where the picture of the DC controller is?

[Lemony_Vengeance]

Yes. It opens to reveal DC ports

[Lemony_Vengeance]

remind me, what IC needs to be used for the Zero PIC for the netdimm?

edit

PIC16F628A-I/P, right?

[69mustang]

remind me, what IC needs to be used for the Zero PIC for the netdimm?

edit

PIC16F628A-I/P, right?

Yes.

[FreedomGundam]

A bit of interesting info, though I’m not entirely sure it’d be useful for everyone:
I was physically modding my Naomi 1 motherboard/casing, and came across a problem where I was getting a shorted signal every time I had my parts mounted in the casing.
Several hours of troubleshooting later with my multimeter prodding and poking and everything, it turns out that the dark-silver paint used to coat the inside of the casing is conductive!

So while this info isn’t very useful to the majority of Naomi users, it might help in terms of troubleshooting.

[69mustang]

A bit of interesting info, though I’m not entirely sure it’d be useful for everyone:
I was physically modding my Naomi 1 motherboard/casing, and came across a problem where I was getting a shorted signal every time I had my parts mounted in the casing.
Several hours of troubleshooting later with my multimeter prodding and poking and everything, it turns out that the dark-silver paint used to coat the inside of the casing is conductive!

So while this info isn’t very useful to the majority of Naomi users, it might help in terms of troubleshooting.

Nice find, definitely important for modding.

[Fearless]

Well, as far as I know almost all the metallics paints are conductives, but can’t be 100% sure of it.

Nice to have this info for all.

[FreedomGundam]

So I got myself a Sega I/O rev.B for one of my two Naomi systems. (this one: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img11/2161/igjb.jpg)

The problem is, I’m getting a slightly jittery/stuttering image that’s also a tad dark.

The Naomi is set on 15kHz (dip switches are set to On/Off/Off/Off) and connected to the Sega I/O, and that goes into my Supergun that has a JROK Sync Cleaner and a JROK v4.1 that’s outputting via Component.

I’m pretty sure it’s not my Supergun nor my Naomi motherboard, as the same setup and same cables with my Capcom I/O works just fine with a bright clear image that doesn’t jitter.

Is there just some tweaking that I’m not fully aware of, or is there a component on the board that’s probably crapping out?

[69mustang]

I’ve used the same I/O board and the 15khz signal is the same (lots of flicker/jitter), 31khz is wonderful. I haven’t used a Capcom I/O so I couldn’t tell if you it is any better.

[FreedomGundam]

I’ve used the same I/O board and the 15khz signal is the same (lots of flicker/jitter), 31khz is wonderful. I haven’t used a Capcom I/O so I couldn’t tell if you it is any better.

Ok cool. The Capcom I/O works just fine on 15kHz; the image is sharp and clear with no flicker.
I guess it’s normal for Sega I/Os? Meh, I guess I’ll stick with 31kHz with the VGA then. I just wanted the additional versatility.

Thanks for the info.

[undamned]

A bit of interesting info, though I’m not entirely sure it’d be useful for everyone:
I was physically modding my Naomi 1 motherboard/casing, and came across a problem where I was getting a shorted signal every time I had my parts mounted in the casing.
Several hours of troubleshooting later with my multimeter prodding and poking and everything, it turns out that the dark-silver paint used to coat the inside of the casing is conductive!

So while this info isn’t very useful to the majority of Naomi users, it might help in terms of troubleshooting.

Yeah, it’s either shield RF interference with a huge metal box or just spray the inside of a plastic case.
-ud

[d7onr8]

It’s secure, I use a hot air station. I would replace the netdimm if I somehow managed to break it. FW 4.02 is the latest and allows the use of different types of compact flash cards, not just the Sega ones.

69mustang came through for me with a tsop job for my netdimm that was stuck at 2.17. Highly recommended!

[Lemony_Vengeance]

It’s secure, I use a hot air station. I would replace the netdimm if I somehow managed to break it. FW 4.02 is the latest and allows the use of different types of compact flash cards, not just the Sega ones.

69mustang came through for me with a tsop job for my netdimm that was stuck at 2.17. Highly recommended!

Same here! I endorse him 100%

[69mustang]

It’s secure, I use a hot air station. I would replace the netdimm if I somehow managed to break it. FW 4.02 is the latest and allows the use of different types of compact flash cards, not just the Sega ones.

69mustang came through for me with a tsop job for my netdimm that was stuck at 2.17. Highly recommended!

Same here! I endorse him 100%

Thanks guys, just glad I could be of help.

[Lemony_Vengeance]

Just burned two JP H bios roms for my Naomi boards, as well as some zero pics. I was having a hell of a time getting my netdimm to consistently boot. Ping tests were dropping packets left and right… Turns out it was not enough voltage in my blast. I picked up a SUN PSU and its working great now. The blast city I have it in has a three pin AUX port on the IO board that provides 120v access. The SUN PSU plugs right in, but an extension cable is suggested. I can make them for you, if you’d like one.

[Visions]

I’m gonna give this thread a two month old bump.

I got a Capcom Big Blue cab with MVC2 in it yesterday and I’m definitely interested in getting a setup to play over netboot/compact flash, but I have a couple of questions. The sticker on my bios says EPR D 21577. Is this a recent enough revision to pop in a Net DIMM?

Is ebay the best place to look for a Net DIMM? They seem to be in short supply on there at the moment, and mostly overseas.

From what I’m reading the DIMM that just has the SCSI port won’t work even just for compact flash loading right?

[Lemony_Vengeance]

You need a newer bios and a zero pic to netboot.

They’re getting tough to find, but netdimms are usually sold on forums like klov or neo-geo expect to pay around $130 for it. More if you got it on eBay.

[RagingAvatar]

69mustang, could you please post some pictures of the inside of your Naomi and show what you did with that PicoPSU? That’d be really helpful - I really want to consolize my (incoming) Naomi.

[FreedomGundam]

69mustang, could you please post some pictures of the inside of your Naomi and show what you did with that PicoPSU? That’d be really helpful - I really want to consolize my (incoming) Naomi.

I thought he sold the thing already.

But anyways, a PicoPSU is nothing more than a super-mini standard power supply that takes a 12V DC input (so mount that somewhere inside the casing) and outputs in a standard 20-pin ATX connector (so wire that up however you want with the 3.3V, 5V, 12V and Gnd signals)

EDIT: forgot to list the 3.3V. Thanks Jasen for the reminder!

[Jasen_Hicks]

Don’t forget the 3.3V… It’s the work horse on the Naomi