Hey everyone, For those that don’t know, A Multi-region bios for the naomi has been released:
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=29558
Here’s the link to download it.
swapping regions requires some dip switch flipping, here’s a visual guide:
keep in mind, running some JP specific games will cause issues on other bios versions. Additionally, this does not resolve the HotD2 issue with netbooting.
Thanks for the clarification. The real issue for me, is given that the power connectors are on the outside of the Naomi board, did he unsolder the Naomi’s power molexes, solder them on the inside and flip the pin layout horizontally so that the PicoPSU could live wholly inside the Naomi?
RagingAvatar
The plugs are JST VLP-06 and VLP-08. Clear distinction if you need to replace or find mating parts.
I am unsure if he unsold weed and moved them to the inside, I need to go back and look at the pictures again, but that’s one way to do it. Another would be to solder wires to the points on the back of the fingerboard.
A last option, would be to find big fat vias or exposed pads to solder to for each voltage; folks have been doing this for a while when consolizeing NEOGEO systems.
This has been one of the random projects I wanted to take on with my metal naomi, very industrial looking… Lots of room. My bear paws have problems working in real tight places
Thanks for the reply Jasen!
Yeah, I want a consolized Naomi with all the major components like IO and power inside the Naomi itself.
So I’m trying to decide which IO to get…
It seems everyone says that the Capcom I/O is the best but the revision B Sega one seems to do most of the things I need (bar the ease of power from Jamma - but if I used PicoPSU I guess that’s not an issue…) and its quite a bit smaller…
I’m new to this kind of thing, so this is quite a departure for me - I’m sure it’ll all go horrendously wrong!
I’d recommend the Sega io. Much smaller and you can make a JST RA CABLE quite easy to stuff it all inside. Remember you need to tap the usb connection on the fingerboard as well!
I don’t think he removed the Naomi’s stock power connectors. I don’t think he took pictures of the innards.
As for mine, I did mount the PicoPSU completely inside, so it does work…
The Sega I/O rev.B is definitely the way to go; it’s slim enough to fit inside. My problem is, as you might’ve seen from my posts earlier in this thread, is that running games off of 15kHz on the Sega I/O rev.B (into a Supergun) nets me a picture that’s both dark and fuzzy/jumpy, a problem that I don’t seem to have when using a Capcom I/O. On the flipside, if your plan is just to run it on 31kHz (VGA cable), then the Sega I/O rev.B should be fine.
Thanks for the helpful replies guys 
Freedom, can you explain more about exactly what you did in mounting the PicoPSU inside?
Did you remount the molexes inside? Did you solder to the points instead?
Are there any issues getting the +3.3v? Did you just mount a point for the PicoPSU on the outside of the board for the laptop-style psu to connect to?
Did you remount the USB socket internally too?
What’s a JST RA cable? #imstupid
I was thinking of doing the following:
Remounting the molexes onto the inside of the filter board to connect to the PicoPSU and having a small socket fitted on the back to actually power the PicoPSU.
NOT use the video output from the I/O board at all and use the VGA direct from the Naomi. (Will this work?)
Not have any audio from the I/O board and use the onboard Naomi phonos - this’ll be going to an AV receiver or something anyway…
Fit two of Undamned’s USB to JAMMA boards inside to the I/O board and have 2 USB sockets on the front of the Naomi - so I can plug in arcade sticks to control the Naomi.
However, can I power the Naomi directly? If so, how do I power the IO board? (I won’t be connecting JAMMA at all other than controls)
Are there any issues/implications for this kind of setup if I want to add a GD-ROM drive later?
Have some maple bus connectors fitted too… because why not?
I know I’m asking a lot of questions and I realise that they problem show that I’m new to all this - but thanks a lot for your help guys, really helpful answers so far.
I didn’t remount the JST plugs (the power ones). One of my goals whenever I mod arcade stuff (boards and sticks) is that it has to look as stock as possible from the outside; at least in silhouette. So my power-JST-plugs stay exactly where they are, as does the USB connector.
I soldered directly to the filterboard, but there is an in-line disconnect internally so I can remove things easily if needed.
I don’t want to go into too much detail on how I mounted my PicoPSU or Sega I/O; not because I’m an ass or anything and I don’t want to share, but because I’m really curious to see what kind of solution you can come up with, without the bias of my solution.
Get all your parts, and see how you can get them to fit. I don’t know about you, but whenever I start to think about modifications like these, I can literally spend weeks just planning how I’m going to fit everything efficiently for both normal use and future maintenance later on, as well as keeping the main exterior outline of the platform looking as stock as possible.
Here’s the JST SERIES of connectors the IO BOARDS use for the digital (and analog) inputs:
http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=206
I think the model 2 uses a 60P CONNECTOR. This will allow you to use the intended socket and mating connector so it fits together properly and works as intended. It will also let you get wires where you need to for the encoder, power, etc. You will need to wire in a 5V line with 100ohm resistor to the coin meters to simulate it being there. If you don’t you will get IO BOARD ERRORS.
Here’s an odd question to those who’ve probed around (quite literally) with their NetDIMMs:
Is there any pin or contact point on a NetDIMM where I can draw 5V from?
As convenient as it is to be able to have a 5V line from the CN12 connector, I’m looking to clean up and simplify my wiring to my Raspberry Pi netbooting setup…
I spent like a good 1/2 hour just poking and probing a gazillion contacts on the NetDIMM board with no luck on continuity to a known 5V contact (ie, directly on the filterboard). Does anyone know if it’s even possible to have 5V on the NetDIMM? I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the NetDIMM Is more dependent on the 3.3V line; so this mission might be completely fruitless if the NetDIMM board doesn’t even connect to a 5V contact…
Here is a 5v source I found on the Netdimm, circled in RED. I don’t know the amperage it puts out though, it was enough to run a compact flash card reader.
click for full resolution.
Here’s my version 2.0 Consolized Sega Naomi. I used a Naomi 2 shell because I wanted it to match the netdimm. The Naomi 2 motherboard is much too loud for me to use and I don’t care for any Naomi 2 games. I internalized a Raspberry Pi running Piforce tools and a navigation wheel to select my games that are stored on the SD card. I added an RJ-45 jack to the back and am using a PicoPSU 90w version, though I will swap this out with a 150w later. A Sega I/O board was used for the controls and a Dreamcast controller port is wired up to the Maple Bus for P1 and P2 for the games that support them.
Click the pics for full resolution.
http://i.imgur.com/b7cfoFDl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xaNV5RUl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CBo9Ctpl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QjJc4pZl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RFRJfiGl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jB8579hl.jpg
Looks nice! What are you using for power, a picoPSU?
Thank you.
Yes, currently a 90w PicoPSU, but a 150w is more reliable/consistent when running a Netdimm. Sometimes (not often) when first powered the Netdimm isn’t initialized, so I have to power cycle and it works.
Very nice man. Very inspiring work.
I’m STILL in the middle of getting mine done; it’s been in limbo since… some 10 months ago. Sucks that I’m in the middle of house-sale and move now, and most of my modding stuff is packed away. My final result will be less compact, but more modular.
Thanks, I understand about projects in limbo, I think I had this on the back burner for 10 months as well.
@69mustang nice work, sir! That’s pretty much my dream NAOMI setup: a NAOMI2 w/ built in netboot setup. Some day, maybe 
-ud
Good shit. I was lazy and just bought one those raspberry pi set ups not too long ago. Those things have KILLT THE GAME.
Thank you!
Your UD-USB Decoders work great with it. I thought about internalizing them in the Naomi, but they are far more useful to me as external converters.