@Fearless - I can get authentic and new Power Supplies but they aren’t cheap. In fact, I bought a World Series Baseball game with a a Naomi setup inside for the same price as the power supply alone. I’ll ask around and see if anyone has some good used part connections. Never hurts to ask!
The board was filthy when I got it, but I gave it a good scrub when I took it apart and it looks great now.
I recently sold a sun power supply for $50, didn’t know what they went for, but the buyer was happy and so was I since I got it for free basically.
Also, I made an edit, the Naomi does not play nice with any of the CXA’s. I will need to change it out with an AD725AR. I play it in VGA on my TV so it’s not a big deal, but it does bug me to have a non working encoder in there.
There is a HUGE culture of restoration over here, probably as much if not more than over in Europe but most of the restoration games are older than the candy cabinets.
I had NOS Impress power supplies shipped in for my Impress cabinet, and can get some others in if people are interested. Hacking an ATX is reasonable but but you need to know which rails you are pulling your power from. ATX’s are very popular in the classic community if they aren’t doing a true restoration because they are cheap and usually sitting around ready to be tossed in old computers.
It is very common in the US for people running JVS systems to hack other power supplies, especially ATX’s. The big issue with doing this is making sure that you have enough amperage on which ever 5V, 12V, and 3.3V rail you tap into. Remember that 500 watt power supplies are also usually PEAK 500watt, running power is usually much lower sometimes half that. Also remember that ATX’s can have multiple rails for the same voltage, so you need to make sure that you have enough wattage on the rail you tap. Watts are just Amps x Volts, So to get 50 watts on the 5 volt line you need 10 amps, where as on the 12 amp you only need just over 4. Wire size is set to amperage, so you will need larger ga wire for 10 amps than for 4 amps, even if it’s the same wattage.
You can also pick up Happ power supplies that carry the 3.3 volt rail also.
Almost sounds like as a Lance Corporal how I embarrassed a 2nd lieutenant. It was a golden day for me, I pointed out the officers stupidity and did it all by the book, military tact and everything
My Platoon commander and battalion commander and battalion Sgt Major was there too, all 3 of them grinning too.
Link to the akishop PSU?
Has anyone measured how many amps on each rail the Naomi is pulling with the Netdimm attached?
On the sun PSU? Not that I have seen
I can get that info this week. I just need to hook everything up.
On any PSU. I haven’t seen any measurements either. My kill-a-watt reader has it at 27 watts while running the netdimm and CF adapter, in case anybody was wondering that.
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/index.php?cPath=98&osCsid=78af2b9ad8cb5d51be0277969f9b5886
Is the last item from the list.
Same here.
I have 2 Naomi motherboards, and the one you see in the pic was absolutely disgusting when I got it: all sorts of black-brown grime in all the fans and vent-holes and such.
Cleaned the casing with Windex first then soapy water; the PCBs were cleaned with compressed air and some cotton-swabs with alcohol; the fans were replaced entirely with quieter fans. 
I make sure to clean all my arcade boards when I get them, especially those that have casings (namely Naomi and CPS2 stuff); you never know where those things have been sitting…
The last one is rad because it has a stereo amp built into it. The $300 price tag is not so rad. Best to drop less than $60 on a sun PSU.
Did you find quiet replacements for the CPU fan?
How big is the CPU fan?
Noctua makes fans as small as 40 mm
I originally wanted to buy some quiet replacement CPS2 fans from jamma-nation-x.com, but they were out of stock at the time; I had previously bought one to replace my CPS2 fan and it was SO MUCH BETTER (Naomi casing fans are the same size as CPS2 ones at 60mm x 15mm).
I ended up going on eBay and buying some no-brand fans from china with similar specs as the ones from Jamma Nation X (~17dBa and ~17cfm), and replaced the stock Naomi ones. I haven’t made a direct comparison, but while they’re not as quiet as the ones from JNX (I’m presuming the info on the auction page are slightly exaggerated, but it could also be because of the casing and airflow differences), they are by far definitely quieter than the stock fans.
EDIT: Didn’t see you mean the CPU fan. I can’t read, apparently.
No, I didn’t replace that one; only the casing one.
According to the Arcade Otaku wiki:
The OEM fan/heatsink is a "109p4405h8016". It is a 5V and 3 wire and actually needs to be 3 wire. The additional wire is a fan speed/pulse wire. If the motherboard doesn't get the fan pulse, it won't boot.
I haven’t found the size of it base on Google searches; they all come as part of some larger assembly or other…
It’s not the size. I’ve read that you can’t just drop in any fan as the sensor won’t pick up correctly, causing the Naomi to not boot up.
You just need all 3 wires connected, voltage, ground and pulse/fan speed.
The BIOS is listening on the pulse wire to make sure the fan is running to avoid heat damage to the CPU.
If the Bios fails to sense the fan, it will not boot. Alot of PC motherboards are the same way.
http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Replacing_a_NAOMI_Fan
According to the wiki, any 60mm fan would work as long as it got those 3 wires.
Just unscrew the fan from the heatsink, clean the heatsink off and screw in your new fan.
I recommend this fan as its the quietest 60mm fan out there without sacrificing performance
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-60x25mm-A-Series-Bearing-Premium/dp/B009NQMESS
You not need any of the accessories except for maybe the 3M snap lock wire crimps (I prefer to solder and use heat shrink)
I installed a 40mm fan from the same manufacturer as the CPU cooler in my Ouya.
Actually:
The 60mm x 15mm fan is the casing fan, and that one doesn’t need the pulse signal (just Ground and 12V).
The CPU fan is much smaller, and that’s the one that needs the 3rd wire with the pulse signal.
https://www.buerklin.com/default.asp?event=ShowArtikel(82B130)&l=e&jump=ArtNr_82B130&ch=20737
44 x 44 x 7.5 mm fan, eww why such odd size.
That makes it hard to find replacements. I am sure a 40mm fan would work if the screw holes line up.