Should have researched about the cable issues earlier as I got a replacement for my atrox which I bought 2 weeks ago and could have kept the USB cable. I am pretty sure the retailer wouldn’t have known 
I wonder if Razer’ll eventually make a PS4 version considering that Street Fighter V isn’t hitting XBox anytime soon.
I thought it was very odd that they skipped the ps3, particularly considering how easy ps3 compatibility was for manufacturers. But yeah, I don’t the xbone has too promising a future for arcade stick sales at this point.
Most new Fighting game titles are going to the PS3/PS4. What the Xbone has? Killer Instinct and Mortal Kombat X, that a joke.
Also Razer never made any PS3 accessories
Based on this 2013 statement from their CEO Min-Liang Tan
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/PlayStation-Controller-Min-Liang-Tan-Razer-Twitter,23419.html
@seqo - for what it’s worth, I also had my Atrox cable start freaking out a while ago. I didn’t really know what to do since I’d bought it from a 3rd party, but I decided to email razer support and explained my situation to them. Despite them not having sold me my Atrox, they immediately asked me for my address and (after a few weeks) I had a brand new cable in the mail. I couldn’t be more pleased with Razer’s service, and I hope they can do some good for you as well!
The
You are from USA, right? I´m from Portugal, and I think the problem is there, since there are no razor´s office here in Portugal!I 
Ah, yes I am. That is unfortunate… maybe someone else can snag one on your behalf? I don’t think I can tell them mine broke again. 
but perhaps some kind soul could help you out on that one. Seems a terrible thing to have your atrox going to waste…
EDIT: Also, to the thread at large… I was looking for this info but am still not totally clear on an answer, I was thinking about changing my Atrox LED colors (for the logo and ideally the turbo buttons) from green to blue or white. Are the colors caused by actual green LEDs, or white ones with filters over them? And either way, what would be the best course of action for changing these colors?
Does anyone know where to buy top plate for the atrox?
Do you mean the plexi?
If you need the plexi, you can buy it from Tek-innovations.
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/index.cfm?loc=products&cat=22
Yeah, apparently that only for changing the art, I need custom button layout.
@financialwar - How custom are you talking? Because if you go through that link you can get a plexi that can at least have a different button configuration than a stock Atrox… I actually just got mine. 
Hoping to get a good shot of it so I can post soon, along with (yes) custom art. I was able to get a plexi from Art that only has the first six button holes, and he has other configurations too.
If you needed something crazier I know that @“B-boy Tekken” was doing some amazing stuff with custom work, but it seems he’s not currently able to take jobs. Unfortunate. Anyway, hope this helps!
Very customised, I’m not getting a stick for fight games but for Anki. Something like this layout. I don’t understand why Art don’t just offer 1/8 replacement plexi for Atrox like he does for TE.
http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/o615/FinancialWar/Untitled_zpsmasxamnl.png
Ah! Something like that is going to be tough to do with an atrox, since the plexi itself sits on a metal plate. Art is just doing configurations that the plate’s eight button holes can already accommodate, as the only way to do otherwise would be for you (or him, somehow) to take said plate and cut the extra holes in the metal first. Not an easy job, and he doesn’t sell replacement metal panels.
B-boy was actually doing just that, custom metal plates with custom plexis to match (exactly what you needed, it would seem), but I think you had to ship your whole stick to him to do the job. And again, he unfortunately isn’t taking orders at this time. Hope you can find another route!
Thanks for the info, pretty much I have settled on TE as Art makes 1/8 inch plexi which I can design the button holes myself.
I’m dual modding my 360 Atrox with a Hori Fighting Commander 4.
Tonight was stage 1, replacing the proprietary USB with a neutrik USB, and adding a DPDT switch. I was able to move the main PCB down and over a few slots, so I did not have to remove their connector in case I want to go back to it. Praise the honeycomb.
Right now the USB connector is loose, I either need to find a material that I can use to surround it, or drill a larger hole for the neutrik casing, which may not leave me enough room for the PCB case. Any recommendations?
Has anyone used a ribbon cable on the headers of the Atrox for a padhack? Or do most people solder to the back? I really like that they added exposed headers for all the buttons. I used a spare JLF harness to go from the USB header on the PCB to the USB-A side of the neutrik for power and ground and the DPDT for D+/D-. Working great with a regular USB-A->B cable now, which is nice.
Neutrik USB pass though are meant to be panel mounted with 2 holes drilled for screws to bolt the adapter to the panel surface.
Yup I know. Just not 100% sure there is clearance. I’ll give it a shot today.
Make sure you measure it out, twice.
if you have too make a template out of cardboard. The Neutrik rubber boots could also be used as a template.
It went in no problem. Had to do it on its side to get clearance for the top to open with the rubber boot.
so i have a te2 i got for 170. i love it but i do in future want to atleast ps4 mod my te 2 but i been hearing the atrox is slightly easier to do this on and cheaper? shoul di make the switch?