The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

First of all, welcome!

I had problems with my brother’s atrox when I got it (the PCB fried somehow when we connected it to the XBOX… never heard anyone having a problem like this before) Since I bought it from a trusted website , I just asked for a replacement. If I were you I would contact the guy you bought it from and tell about it. If he’s doesn’t seem to care, the go for amazon. Trying to fix it by yourself sounds like a bad idea since it’s not certain that you can fix it and they can say you damaged the stick yourself or something.

It’s a great stick. If you get your money back, IMO, you should save some more and buy one or wait for a sale. There are other great sticks out there though.

Hey, thanks Roddy. :slight_smile: I’d sorta given up on a response from the community, I appreciate the post and the welcome.

I did end up letting the seller know, they were very kind and offered me my money back or to refund me 20% if I thought I could fix it. I ended up shipping it back today. Like you said, it probably would have been more trouble trying to fix it than it was worth… and if the other hinge went too, I’d just have an atrox in two very sad pieces.

That said, I was blown away with how solid the stick felt, and how small it was (height wise, in particular) compared to how I’d imagined it. Coupled with the non-slip bottom and the large area for art, I’m pretty sure I’ll be purchasing an atrox when I see a good deal come along. I’m starting to think I’d better find a good deal on a new one though, so I can have a warranty as a safety net…

Do you (or anyone, really) know if the stick is ever found to be on sale? I do see newegg has one for 185, that’s the lowest I’ve seen so far for an authorized new one. Maybe the price will start to go down now that the xbone version is out?

Well, I know for sure it was [on sale 8 months ago for 50%](50% off Razer Atrox - Promotion ended

Not sure if they are gonna do it again or when.

Not sure either… their site lists the 360 model as “sold out” now, so maybe they’re only gonna make xbone models now? 50 percent off… damn. Should have been thinking about this eight months ago. :stuck_out_tongue:

Any easy way to disable the pulsing Razer logo? I find it distracting while fighting

Yes, cut the wires to the LEDs

I was hoping for a non-permanent solution, but hey that works

Pretty sure you can just unplug it from the main pcb

Same idea, its all a matter of finding some point where you open or break the circuit to the LEDs.
I just forgot there a plug to be had. Unplugging the wire would be “breaking” the circuit to the LEDs.

Note you aren’t actually breaking anything, it just some basic electrical jargon, break as in “break up” or separate.
You do the same thing every time you unplug a appliance from a wall outlet.

Its only permanent if you make it so.

So after a spending an evening with the stick (Atrox 360)

Pros
-One button open. I rewired it to the more traditional TE button layout and replaced all the buttons in minutes.
-Honeycomb bottom. Great for additional PCBs.
-Plexi out of the box. This is pretty important considering how terrible the stock art is. I removed it and it looks better clear.
-Weight
-Bottom grip pad

Cons
-Plastic top Thin metal top plate? I had no idea how much this would bother me, but the fact that the top panel has some give it has a very slight bounce every time I hit the buttons, which really threw me off. Maybe due to the fact that there are no reinforcement poles underneath the panel.

Unfortunately I’m not sure there’s anything I can do about the top panel, unless someone offers a thick plexi to add some more support. I am really used to the thick metal panels on the TE & old HRAPs

Edited due to Darksakul pointing out it is actually metal, not plastic.

Wait, the final production model got rid of the metal under panel under the plexy?

Hmm I guess it is metal, it us just a thinner less rigid metal than the TE metal. Aluminum?

has anyone modded in a crossbone to the 360 version Atrox while retaining the locking cable? I’m looking at doing it myself and I’m hoping I can just rig the crossbone’s micro USB up to the 5-pin USB header and have it all work. Otherwise it looks like I’m going to have to either remove or isolate the locking connector and essentially get the crossbone in between it and the atrox’s pcb.

@JMro to get rid of the LED you just have to pull the 2-pin header out from the top-left of the PCB. It’s the one that comes in on a 6-wire ribbon which splits off to the 4-pin header between R55 and J30. I just pulled it myself and verified the lights went out. I believe the other 4 are for the headset plug, but I’m not sure why they’d need that many connections.

Thanks that worked.

After a few days I am noticing the bounce/flex in the top panel a little less

Has anyone looked into using the honeycomb panel to screw in some kind of stand-offs to add more support around the buttons?

Something like this

http://www.rrfixtures.com/media/img/gen/21976e76dff045b1893b734dc03a3530.jpg

Or 3D print a perfect fit support? I could mockup a CAD drawing if someone posts dimensions and/or photos.

Anyone know when we are going to see the Xbone Atrox be released? There was an article on Razers website that said August but yea not even September saw the release of the new stick. Anyone have any word on the release?

Knowing Razer, who knows

How the fuck do you pull the buttons off? I tried to pull one off and its literally not budging at all.

A friend of mine placed an order for one a month ago and got it last week.