anyone know a good way to mount a neutrik rj45 on this thing without having to widen the usb square hole with a drill bit?
Forget the neutrik and get a different style panel mount
Yeah I just ordered a switchcraft it looks like it will fit infinitely better.
I appreciate your help though.
Which switch craft? Switch craft makes ALOT of panel mounts, some identical to neutrik.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71jAj4WJSuL.SX600.jpg
The one focus attack sells, donāt know what else would fit that original square port
Umm, that is very very similar to the neutrik RJ45 Passthough and I canāt guarantee a nice fit.
That Switch Craft panel mount is better than neutrik for mounting in solid wood, but you wills till need to widen up the USB hole in your Razer stick.
. I thought the switch craft being more square shaped would fit the USB hole perfect since the circle shaped jack on a neutrik seems to be the problem in my eyes.
I might just have to widen it with a dremel tool or something then. Iām tired of messing with it honestly
Just an update, the switch craft works pretty well. I just widened the USB hole some with a dremel until it fit. It looks pretty good, almost like nothing changed
I think I got the LED thing sorted out, but now I need to replace it since it got burned. Any ideas on how to replace it? I removed all the screws in that section but I donāt know how to remove the transparent piece of plastic contianing the razer logo so I can replace the LED.
My Atrox is dead. I suspect it has something to do with either the cable or the connector.
Iām sorryā¦but is it possible to show me a picture on where i should solder it? cuz i canāt seem to get the guide button to work even after soldering it to the āGUā pin in the diagram D:
actually i canāt even seem to get my guide button to work even while using it on my xboxā¦helpā¦ D:
Looking into picking up An atrox as my ātournament stickā and I have a few questions that shouldnāt be too hard to answer:
- How heavy is it compared to the MCZ V.S. edition stick? About the same, hopefully heavier? Iām currently using the mcz fightstick pro and itās a little too light for my taste.
- Is the bottom rubber padding as good as the felt on the eightarcs?
- From what Iāve read, the PCB is better than the MCZ pcb. Does it retain the same performance after a mod? Iām looking into the cerberus if it helps
~Thanks
Not exactly an answer to any of your questions but a good way to add weight to a case is with stick on wheel weights. I asked a guy at Discount Tire if I could buy some from them and they gave me over a pound of them for free.
Iāll check that out for my Fightstick pro, but Iām interested in the Atrox if the weight is how I want it out of the box.
Hi i just got this stick and i use it on my PC, but the razer logo keeps fading on and off is this normal? thanks
Yes thatās how itās supposed to be (pulsating logo).
Hi allā¦
i have a problem with my Razer Atrox anyone that can help out ? i made a topic about it.
So, thereās an Xbox One version of the Atrox available now, and Iām wondering if thereās any current method for tri-modding? I know thereās the Crossbone for padmodding, but is it compatible with the PCB in the Xbone Atrox? Is there any other way to tri-mod using the Xbone Atrox and a PS360+?
Iām picking up an Atrox stick in under a month, and Iād love to be able to tri-mod it, so any help is appreciated. Iāll most likely be picking up the Xbone version of the stick anyway, since PS360+ is a standalone board, so if thereās nothing available now, Iām hoping there may be in the future.
Thanks in advance.
Popular consensus around here is that the PCB in the XBONE Atrox is common ground so your standard methods of multi-console modding should be all you need. The Crossbone is for bare XBONE controller PCBs and the XBONE TE2 PCB (which is not common ground).
Hey guys, first post on the forums but Iāve been doing a lot of reading lately. 
I was doing a lot of research for buying my first stick (Iāve been testing out friendsā sticks and reading a lot) and I had just about settled on the HORI Kai or possibly the MadCatz PRO (just missed the window where those were 100 bucks for a 360 modelā¦), but there was an Atrox on sale ālike newā for 130 bucks on amazon. I went through this thread and decided Iād bite the bulletā¦ the guy had a LOT of positive feedback, and getting a 200 dollar stick for the price of the Kai seemed like a good idea.
I finally got it yesterday, and this stick feels AMAZING. Iāve been mostly playing on a VX-SA, and the added weight alone is incredible. Iāve also been looking forward to adding custom art to the top, and I really like how easy that looks to be on this stickā¦ really, quality all around. It really did look ālike newā too, and it was packaged up just like it had been in the store (though the guy had opened it to make sure it worked, so definitely used to some degree).
THE ISSUE. I popped the hood, and immediately noticed (after the gas strut had finished blowing me away) that the RB button was not locking into the panel from below like the others. One of the two plastic bits that are supposed to flange out wasnāt flanging out, for whatever reason. If that was the only issue, fine! Iām trying not to use the right two buttons anyway, and buttons are not expensive. The real issue came when I went to close the lid and realized that it wasnāt staying perfectly down on one side. So I opened it again and realized that the right hinge is broken. 
(not my image, clearly)
So, it looks like the hinge unscrews from both the panel and the base, and that those parts cover some plastic bit that the hinge itself screws into. That plastic piece seems to have broken off inside the hinge, so looking at the hinge itself nothing looks broken at allā¦ itās just that you can wiggle the panel around on that side, which is clearly wrong.
SO. I immediately put everything back into the box (honestly donāt even know if the thing works yet, though I may carefully try that today) and filed a dispute in amazon. Iām pretty sure the guy did not know the stick was brokenā¦ he sells a lot of products and has a really high rating, but Iām not certain he knew that this thing even opens. I think itās pretty likely that I can get my money back, but I got to thinking last night as I was going to bedā¦ could this be fixable, to a degree? I donāt have any pictures of the damage (yet), but I was thinking that I might be able to use super glue or something to put that piece back together. I didnāt try to get the broken piece out of the hinge, so I donāt know how clean a break it is, and if I did it wrong I might not be able to properly unscrew the panel if I ever really wanted to, but it might work. I just donāt know for sure the integrity of that hinge once I do something like that. Iām also pretty sure that inner piece is not replaceableā¦ if it were the hinge itself I could probably just get one from someone with a dead atrox/the people at razer.
I guess Iām just wondering what you guys would do. Should I try and stick with this? Iām a bit afraid that other sticks will feel like toys having felt the weight of this stick (the built-in plexi is also really quite wonderful)ā¦ but I still donāt think Iād pay 200 bucks for a new one. What do you think? Assuming the stick functions (I will probably test this soon), should I keep it and try to fix it? Or do you think I should return it and just get a different stick?
Thanks a lot if you read through all thatā¦ I tend to type a lot, once Iām on a roll. For everyone else:
tl;dr - the stick probably works, but the hinge is broken. Should I try to fix it, or return it and get a cheaper stick that is hopefully still quality and doesnāt feel too dinky?