I can’t help but feel that the recent MS snafu’s at the press conferences is only going to help Sony establish PS4 as a platform of choice when the fighting games arrive on the next-gen.
Right now, the gap between the current consoles is smaller than ever. Figures still don’t reflect how many systems were taken out of commission by heating issues and breakdowns. Something to keep in mind.
As far as being so biased to not release products on a profitable platform… that’s Razer’s business whether it makes sense or not.
More than a few companies have gone down the drain after people stuck their foot in it or shot themselves by accident. If he doesn’t watch it, Razer’s president could easily become the next generation’s Bernie Stolar. People familiar with Sega and the sad state of affairs that Stolar instigated will get the reference…
Too bad that with its cash reserve and the fanboy population that Microsoft will continue to get away with monopolistic practices and software/hardware issues. As I type this, I am reminded of the fact that I had to buy a new optical drive because the old malfunctioning unit could not be firmware-upgraded due to shoddy MS programming. Anybody who’s ever had to do reinstalls of their OS because a security patch or Service Pack wouldn’t install understands the time and productivity those glitches cost you. That’s what a nickel-and-diming mentality from a company that’s untouchable gets you!
It will be a while but at a point in time it may be that open-source software becomes the undoing of MS and other entrenched software companies…
Has anyone put a PS360+ in one of these? I would like to do it to mine, but I prefer not to lose the LeftStick/DPad/RS switch (i don’t mind losing turbo) and I’m unsure if the PCB contacts are clearly labeled.
I don’t think so. The stick just needs to be plugged in to have power. SELECT+1P+2P+3P enters config mode, then it’s just Left, Up, or Right on the joystick to select LS, DP, or RS respectively. Once set, pressing Start exits config mode.
FYI, hitting down on the joystick while in config mode will toggle S+S=H functionality.
I just snagged one of these bnib for £89.95, not sure why no one else on ebay was interested. I get the impression that these aren’t selling so well at their current RRP, so perhaps prices will start falling soon.
i couldnt be bothered, i got too many projects on the go, i got 4 blk lightning te panels that have been sitting collecting dust that need to be spray painted, need to go to car garage to get quotes,
i got 2 custom wood cases that need parts and pcb’s and art work
need to modify the case slightly on my nubytech sfac stick to drop in a suzo 500
and i butchered my VSHG pcb, so i need to put pcb in that aswell
that sellers testing waters, his sitting on plenty of stock, i though he would cancel auction on the last day, but i saw your bid with 16 hours to go
it has to be really cheap for me to bite at the minute, i snagged a sf4 standard edition for £10.98 shipped off the bay last week, but i got a feeling seller may back out, although he did email me to say it will be shipped out this week
ive passed on a few auctions in past couple of months, a ps3 fighting edge i could have got for £88, TE’s going for £40 - £50, but prices have started to pick up recently
the markets saturated in uk, madcatz were struggling to get rid of their pro and soul sticks a few months back, well the 360 soul editions sold fast i have to admit but the rest were taking forever,
i get the feeling theyve rebadged the sfxt pro sticks to the generic art cuz they had so much stock
Damn, I missed those… There was a DC virtua stick for very little the other day. To be honest, I shouldn’t have bought the Atrox and was hoping someone would outbid me…
I picked up a Hori FS V3 with Sanwa buttons for £18 a few months back, I consider that a big score.
I suspected the seller was doing that. The prices are all over the place right now - have you seen the £300 ones from Europe?
I can’t remember the last time I got a stick off eBay, mainly because I’m swamped in the things at the moment and need a clear out. The only ones I plan on keeping are an Asian TE with Sanwa RG buttons & Kitty board, dual modded Razer Beta, and a Seimitsu modded DC Agetec with PS360+
All the rest including a couple of boxed VSHG’s and Q3’s are going.
I have my beta unit working and keeping all of the switches at top. Then again my beta unit uses a cerberus and a brawlstick SE board for its dual mod components
yeah those euro atrox prices are high, but the prices from japan take this biscuit, tekken tag te’s for £400+ and i seen a razor stick for £568 i think!!!
yo g! i still havent got round to sending you the stuff, financially not possible, also you only had 1 pcb, but now i decided on ps1 pads, when i get time will have to get on it.
got married 2 months ago, and gaming is on the back burner, havent switched on my dreamcast for over 5 months! i played hd remix like 2 hours total in last 2 months on ps3 and thats about it
q3’s are nice, boxed vhgs? nice, i got 7! 1 is butchered though
Razer stopped dealing with drivers in the normal sense a while back. You need to install synapse 2.0. Synapse will connect to the cloud and then download the drivers and update the firmware for all Razer devices. All your devices will be managed from synapse with one exception, virtual 3d surround (if you’re using it) is managed from it’s own program. Once everything is configured you can disconnect Synapse from the cloud if you want.
A word of advice, when they say don’t unplug stuff don’t. Don’t touch a fucking thing while Synapse is configuring it. I’ve broken more than a few deathadders with Synapse.
A lot of people hate Synapse and the entire cloud based driver model, but it’s actually not that bad once it’s up and running. If you’re keyboard and mouse are also Razer it’s one program to manage everything and update them as needed. If you have a Razer mousepad and headphones as well you can tell the software which ones they are and it will tweak the mouse sensor and 3d surround for them as well. It’s just obnoxious that you have to shut it down to disconnect it (doesn’t hurt anything once you’re configured) and more than a few people have bricked a mouse updating it.
@acerbic@xanderwolf - Since the stick is an officially licensed XBox controller, the XBox 360 Controller for Windows driver SHOULD properly detect the stick… But in Win 7 x64, several people have had issues with it. The several companies that make a stick don’t officially claim PC support, but if it works, it works.
Anyway, check [this thread](Street Fighter IV Fightstick doesn’t have a driver After my original summary instructions were expanded upon, it seems to have helped a few people get their XBox 360 fightsticks working. Again, if it’s officially licensed to work on XBox 360, than any Windows PC with the driver properly installed should recognize it as such… It just sucks that Win 7 (at least the 64-bit version) seems to be picky about properly installing the driver. Windows 8 detects and installs the driver automatically.
I’m looking to dual mod the Atrox with a ChimpSMD, but I can’t figure out how to do it with the USB connector that’s attached to the Atrox PCB. (I realize that I could mount the ChimpSMD’s connector or use a Neutrik instead, but I’d rather only do that if I have to.)
Currently, when I connect the ChimpSMD to the USB part of the Atrox PCB (either with the connector pins underneath, or the labeled pins on the top of the board), the red and blue ChimpSMD lights flash on and off, and the PS3 side isn’t be recognized by my PS3 or PC. From what I’ve read, this can mean that there’s a power issue, which suggests to me that the ChimpSMD isn’t getting the signals properly through the USB feed-through.
Darksakul suggested, at least with the beta version of the Atrox PCB, that some resistors need to be removed for this mod to work, though the board has significantly changed, and I can’t quite tell if that’s the problem here or how I would locate the resistors on this new version of the PCB.
