If you want to use the Atrox’s USB connector
You have to be able to cut some PCB traces.
Cut the Data - and Data + lines on the top side of the PCB going to that big USB connector, try to leave the Power and ground connections intact
If you do cut the power and Ground, you can bridge those lines with some wire.
solder the pins from the connector to the Cerberus
Now the wires from the Cerberus should be going to that secondary USB header.
Thank you very much for the quick response!
It seemed like I might have to do something like cutting a trace to get this to work. I’ve done trace cutting before, but I knowledge of it is limited and I want to make sure that it’s accurate. (Although, as you said, one could just wire up the lines if need be.)
Here’s a better picture:
http://i40.tinypic.com/tajvk3.jpg
Please, if you wouldn’t mind drawing another line, Mr. Darksakul. 
This might be helpful for anyone else wanting to mod an Atrox, too.
I haven’t had first hand experience of an Atrox board but have modded the Razer Beta. Instead of trace cutting couldn’t you just desolder the two 0 resistors for the data lines instead?
I don’t see the two Zero ohm resistors in that image. I can identify to traces.
@blueNINE
But issue is I don’t have the final version of the Atrox, I am 85% certain its those 2 traces in that white circle. If I had that PCB, I could find out for certain with a multimeter.
if you got a multimeter you can probe out and find where the 2 resistors are, desolder them and then attack your wires from there Cerberus to those points
I do have a multimeter, which is how I figured out the feed-through pinout, but I’m not sure how I’d figure out where the resistors are. Not sure if it would be worth it, but if it’s easy enough, I can give it a shot.
Again, thanks to everyone who is helping.
I want to say its those 2 traces by that white circle there BUT that is a guess on my part.
If you can carefully scrape up the solder mask (the green stuff) and probe around, you can see if I am right or not.
If you look at the last pic he posted there are 4 resistors just below the header pin for USB out. I’m assuming they can be used (L16 & L17)
Those aren’t resistors. They are inductors. Chokes for the data lines.
So Gummo how would you go about a Cerberus mod for the new Atrox PCB?
Cut the traces between the usb jack and the pin header. Wire up the usb jack to the USB OUT. Wire up the pin header to X360 IN.
Okay so I had originally though. Thanks.
^ Thanks for the clarification. A shame then that Razer made this change to the motherboard.
How it is a shame, if anything I can see how Dual-modding this PCB is now easier for me.
I rather cut some traces than have to desolder surface mounted components
I also have access to some live looking headers that it not be hard for me to solder wire to a pin connector and push onto the board headers, which for me its always a plus instead of soldering to the board it self.
Anytime you can make your work easily disassemble the better and I can keep my wiring clean; that is terrific.
It saves time to just pull off pin connectors to make changes over desoldering or cutting wire. The less changes you have to do on the PCB directly the better, as every time you have to resolder a board connection you are risking damage.
The stick has successfully been modded! Many thanks to everyone who helped! More info and pictures to come.
Also, the start and select buttons were incorrectly labeled in my diagram image. The image has been corrected and my post has been edited to use said corrected image.
After trying out and reading many reviews on various sticks. I finally settled on the Razer Atrox as my first stick. I’m a happy camper!!
One question is there an option to turn off the blinking razer logo?
yes. you can unplug the wire harness from the pcb. should also be able to just keep the led on by moving the harness connector over a spot.
Thanks!
IMPORTANT EDIT: PLACING THE CERBERUS UNDERNEATH THE ATROX PCB CAN BE PROBLEMATIC FOR THE 360 PCB. I RECOMMEND PLACING IT ON THE TOP SIDE. UPDATE (WITH PICTURES) HERE: The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!.
It was tricky to get this right, but it’s the most clean way of modding this that I could come up with. Shoutouts to Clayton and PhreakMods!
The Cerberus was carefully be trimmed down to be about as small as possible in order for it to fit in the PCB box. There’s electrical tape underneath the Cerberus to prevent any contact with the bottom side of the Atrox PCB, and the PCBs have been hot glued together (over the tape) to so that the Cerberus will stay in place.
One of the tabs inside the bottom of the PCB box was cut so that the USB jack would line up with the case after the boards were inside. Also, I recommend avoiding letting any wires cross the top or bottom edges of the Cerberus, so as to avoid letting them get crushed when the boards are placed into the PCB box.
Here are the pictures…
The Cerberus attached to the main board:
The D+ and D- traces on the main PCB that need to be cut in order for the USB jack on the Atrox PCB to be used:
(This will make those lower, smaller pins work for data out, and the higher D+ and D- pins will remain associated with the 360 board.)
The Xbox Guide button soldering location:
For reference, so that everything’s in the same post…
The top of the Atrox main PCB:
The bottom of the Atrox main PCB:
Finished! (You can barely tell that it was even modded…except when you plug it into a PS3.)
IMPORTANT EDIT: PLACING THE CERBERUS UNDERNEATH THE ATROX PCB CAN BE PROBLEMATIC FOR THE 360 PCB. I RECOMMEND PLACING IT ON THE TOP SIDE. UPDATE (WITH PICTURES) HERE: The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!.
Amazing work BlueNINE those pictures will come in real handy for anyone looking to dual mod.
That’s a very clean dual mod, excellent work