The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

[The_Third]

So you get a free LB-30N with the beta stick? Or is it some Razer bat top?

[d3v]

So you get a free LB-30N with the beta stick? Or is it some Razer bat top?

LB-30N + adaptor.

[chuu]

sure why not

I also have no use for my bat top

i don’t think either of you is in toronto

[syn13]

I

i don’t think either of you is in toronto

I’m more or less in the east end(Scarborough)

[Darksakul]

Should I
[LIST]
[]A. Come up with a new Panel art for my Razer Stick (I want a Retro style panel art or something related to Tron/Blaze Blue style line art)
[]B. Do a solid black panel like the TE-S Namco stick
[*]C. Leave the panel as Default
[/LIST]
I already have a Cerberus board for dual modding on its way. I decided to go with a Cerberus instead of a chimp to try to get a smaller foot print for the PCB.

And I am Debating on the Ball top and button color choices.

If I do option A, I was going to go all Red, Green or Blue.
Option B. Would be All Black or Smoke (see though Sanwa or Semitsu)

Option C is unlikely.

[FrankCastleAZ]

I’ve been looking over the topic and everyone’s photos, Voltech’s video etc.

1. My primary concern was the plastic button cover with Razor’s logo on it because as much as I can respect branding, doing an art mod on a stick (especially with specific color schemes) it’s a bit of a killer to have a brand LED taking away from the art. I saw on Voltech’s video it can snap out, so that would be a nice business opportunity for someone in TT to make a mold and sell all black ones or custom ones. I don’t think it’d be that expensive either.

2. I agree with Icy Black Deep and Dev about the lock button working with Start and Back, but I still don’t like the buttons on the side. If they were in a recess I’d be okay with it. Dev mentioned there’s still a chance for Razer to address that particular issue and I certainly hope they do, but wouldn’t it require a redesign of the turbo PCB? I really don’t want to have to do the daisy chain of the ground as B BOY DRAW2 mentioned.

3. Dev likes the strut and I like the concept of it, but how difficult would it be to repair if some modding noob breaks it?

4. How much room is underneath the honeycomb? Enough for PCB with no screw terminals?

5. I really like the included tool and battop.

6. The idea of the USB B to A is solid so when someone’s dog chews on the wire they can replace it with their mom’s printer cable. No needed Neutrik.

I think I had more, but… tired.

-FrankCastleAZ

[d3v]

3. Dev likes the strut and I like the concept of it, but how difficult would it be to repair if some modding noob breaks it?

Off the top of my head, there’s nothing I can think of that would require actually modding the strut.

4. How much room is underneath the honeycomb? Enough for PCB with no screw terminals?

What do you mean by “underneath?” The honeycomb lies flat on the “floor” of the stick. It’s going to be hard to put anything under it.

[FrankCastleAZ]

Off the top of my head, there’s nothing I can think of that would require actually modding the strut.

I didn’t mean modding the strut. I should have reworded that line. With any of the million other arcade sticks out there, we can replace bolts and nuts example if bolt is stripped or nut comes loose via glue like on TE sticks. If someone breaks one of the struts while they are going in and out of the stick for X reason (which could include modding), what options are we going to have to fix it?

It’s a cool feature to get in and out quickly, I just don’t see any long term positives of the struts.

What do you mean by “underneath?” The honeycomb lies flat on the “floor” of the stick. It’s going to be hard to put anything under it.

That answers it then. Too bad there’s no gap on the bottom for PCBs or wiring. That way we’d have the option to mod with PCBs underneath the honeycomb.

Thanks for answering the questions Dev. My only other question is nothing anyone can answer right now (How much).

-FrankCastleAZ

[d3v]

Thanks for answering the questions Dev. My only other question is nothing anyone can answer right now (How much).

My educated guess would be around the same as a TE or HRAP.V series stick.

[32teeth]

I’ve been looking over the topic and everyone’s photos, Voltech’s video etc.
5) I really like the included tool and battop.

meh, waste of space to be honest.
whereas the little box compartment on the left hand side. awesome for keeping small parts in, car keys, house keys, phone, wallet.

once you open the case, at the front where all the component box and battop holder are can be removed… …nice touch razer.
as per the hand tool, maybe it’s the onset of arthritis but i could not make use of it. had to go traditional screwdriver to replace the balltop

Fun Stuff
Modding the green led in the razer logo ain’t so straight forward

Soo… …you don’t like the green part

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8308/7982099222_7904180432_z.jpg

Well,
in order to get to it you will need to undo 10 screws in total. read that. 10.

1. open your case
2. remove the four screws on the center retainer
3. remove main retainer
4. remove 2 screws on the sides of the main clamp
5. push the clamp forward to pop out headphone jack
6. remove the main clamp
7. remove the 2 screws from underneath
8. remove top
9. remove 2 screws from mic pcb
10. desolder
11. solder
12. reverse 1-9

results
yep, i went with an** blue smd led**

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8179/7984328603_98e62eeafc_z.jpg

iphone sh*t camera don’t like light

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8177/7984328943_d8ec836827_z.jpg

100x better now

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7984329381_4e014bdd3f_z.jpg

[Gorilla_White]

Ohh, really digging the color change. Nice.

[Sideshow20]

Yeah he mentioned he talked to TFA and Razer on his stream. It looked like it was numbered so it ain’t some custom beta build. No hating but I do hope he or the EMP crew do contribute to commenting on the stick beyond what I heard on the stream.

Who in TFA did he talk to?

[Tigerish]

I don’t like the looks of it. It’s looks almost identical to the TE. From what I can tell they aren’t doing anything radically different…

[gahrling]

It’s looks almost identical to the TE.

Yeah… have to disagree with you.

[Gummo]

They have barely anything identical. Except they both use sanwa parts.

[gahrling]

They have barely anything identical. Except they both use sanwa parts.

And USB cables.

[Gummo]

And USB cables.

But one’s detachable and ones not.

[gahrling]

Still use USB, still have next to nothing in common with a TE.

[mr.mortified]

We could tell you what’s not in common, but those will be improved to be even cooler.

[Darksakul]

I don’t like the looks of it. It’s looks almost identical to the TE. From what I can tell they aren’t doing anything radically different…

Trust me when I say the Razer and TE sticks have nothing in common. Yes they both use Sanwa parts, but so does Hori and any other retail stick maker.

I tore a TE down to its basic parts, I practically done the same with the Razer. They are nothing alike.
[LIST]
[]The construction of the main body is different, it is like comparing a horse skeleton to a pre-historic giant sea scorpion exoskeleton. In our case the TE relies on 3 diffrent layers on plastic material, and dozens of little screws for the body construction while the Razer stick follows a clam-shell design. Not to mention the honeycomb layer in the Razer stick.
[]the layout of the two arcade sticks do not match up. Yes they both loosely based of the Viewlix layout, the default TE layout does not allow much room for screw in buttons, especially around the 1K, 2K, and 1P buttons, and even then you have to use Seimtsu button nuts. The Razer stick on the other hand is better spread out allowing the use of Seimtsu and even Sanwa Screw-in type buttons and the use of Sanwa button nuts.
[]the PCBs look completely different, and the razer stick uses the correct connector for the JLF. The TE does not, you have to get the right cable from toodles.
[]The top panel is done differently, on the TE the metal and plexy of the top panel comes off with 6 screws, while the metal on the razer is bolted on differently that the plexy.
[]The Razer plexy can be removed with out touching the metal panel.
[*]And honestly Hori had the guide/turbo area first.
[/LIST]
*Pre-historic Giant Sea Scorpion.
See this pic but think of it the size of a station wagon (not including it’s tail).
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j-kJLhZL3vM/UE2_3tgbMkI/AAAAAAAAAW4/cQcJaidTcHU/s320/sea_scorpion+%281%29.jpg
This is the modern day cousin to the Pre-historic Giant Sea Scorpion