Had a chance to look over AG Kazi’s stick (#4) last night. It definitely gives a good impression of quality with its high level of fit and finish. I love that the fasteners for the plexi are completely flush. Also, everyone agreed that the ability to store a little something inside the stick offers unlimited possibilities for trolling.
The biggest minus to me was the start and back buttons being on the side, so I tended to hit them every time I grabbed the stick to adjust it on my lap. (You don’t actually need to adjust the stick because the mat on the bottom guarantees it isn’t going anywhere, but I guess it’s a nervous habit of mine between rounds.) That would be mitigated if the lock switch turned off those buttons, but it doesn’t. (Though I personally prefer out-of-the-way buttons to lockable buttons so I can mash start to go to the next round.)
And as to closing it, since that is coming up a lot: It closes no problem every time if you firmly press down in the center (around the release button) instead of trying to slam it closed. But there’s room for improvement there for sure.
Hurm… from what I’ve seen of it the side buttons should be recessed into the case much like the rear USB jack is. Otherwise those buttons should be on the rear of the case at the least.
Start and Back need to be lockable like on a MCZ stick. There’s actually not much free space in the back due to the metal hinges and warranty cover. Any free space there is better kept free for us to be able to drill holes for stuff.
Or you daisy chain the ground wires on the Start & Back buttons, and to the ground signal on the lock switch like the old Round 1 TE stick lock switch mod.
Some people, such as myself, don’t have any turbo/home/lock switch panel at all…so I have a Start & Back button, and installed my own lock switch right next to them on one of my TE’s. On another TE I have the same set up again and no lock switch at all.
Unless they chuck a lock switch anywhere other than on the turbo/home/lock panel…I don’t think it’s really an issue unless you mash every other button other than your punch & kick buttons.
Of course…if it really is an issue for people…there is an easy solution for those who can’t wait.
After all…the beta testing is for a stick that is encouraged to be modded.
Doesn’t mean we aren’t sending feedback on issues like this that should be fixed before launch.
As stated here and in the private convo. The fact that the Start and Back buttons are on the side means that there’s a greater chance of them getting accidentally hit, especially in tight quarters. Imagine playing in a crowded pool at a tournament only to have your match interrupted because someone accidentally hit Start on your or your opponents stick. In fact, we don’t have to imagine since people have reported encountering this issue. The fact that this happens defeats the purpose of removing Start and Back from the top panel.
IMO there is no reason not to implement the design the Qanba Q3 did in having multiple recessed button holes along the side of the stick case. That design principle is pretty much future proof, and any holes that aren’t used are simply plugged.
Yeah he mentioned he talked to TFA and Razer on his stream. It looked like it was numbered so it ain’t some custom beta build. No hating but I do hope he or the EMP crew do contribute to commenting on the stick beyond what I heard on the stream.
Hey Gummo, just looking at your pics on your site. nice work!!!
The pic of the Razer hood release button cover…did it break off…or does it come detachable?
Oh…and another question…the cable that runs from the main pcb to the light up hood release button…can that be run under the honeycomb, or is the honeycomb there for good?
It was already broken off before I had taken it out of its bag. Simply hot glued it back on and its fine now.
The honeycomb can be taken out so maybe technically you could run it under the honeycomb. I think you would prob have to dremel some of the underside of the honeycomb in order to do that.
