lololol, i know numerous gamers who dont even own fighting games who applied/lied for the beta, so dont act like TT is gonna even get 1…
also, make sure they put a breakaway stick top on it with storage inside when you guys all get yours
Tech Talk is already guaranteed at least two. There will almost certainly be more than two in the end.
lol hey if its free why not apply, i would be sad if non moders applied just to have but thats how its is. good luck guys
Well, I mean, it’s for beta testing. Not necessarily modding. Find issues with it before it goes out into the wild. Some things you can see are issues like the QDs and the open button. Other things need hands-on time like strength of the panel, hinge, stick mount, etc.
I am only slightly interested, considering my 360 Razer controller I bought just straight up died one day for no reason. So if one of their $50 controllers can go out I’d hate to think what a more expensive stick would do…but that is just me.
That’s what we’re here for. I’m guessing they’ve recognized the issue with their previous device(s) and want to correct the problem the best way they know how. A month long test to gain feedback on where the shortcomings are and to implement necessary changes to make sure that this is a contender for the best device on the market.
how hard is it to snip off the old Quick disconnects and place in new ones? And most .110 QD are 10 cents each?
Making mountains out of mole hills
I want more objecting to the Joystick harness any ways
Why would you even cut off the quick disconnects? That would be a total waste just snipe the rubber/plastic plug in half
I dont know if this has been said but there should be a pin-header/harness on the top plate to make swapping top plates quick.
That’s something I’ve been looking into for my own sticks but… yes I agree.
hrm yeah and after reading your post i think i should elaborate on the fact that they should design their PCB to NOT allow opposing directions. I dont remember what the protection of this phenomenon is called (i know the cthulu has it and so does the official “hitboxes”) but yeah there have been some controversy over the legality of hitboxes because some PCBs allowed you to do Forward + Back or Up + Down for that “cannot be crossed up” or “charge while walking forward” in some games effect.
just in the electrical/pcb aspect they NEED to make sure that the opposite directions are incompatible. Its a small thing but it can make or break tournament legality for people who want to convert it into a “hitbox” because the devil is in the details. thats my 2c
If you are talking about a harness, they should do something like this.

Connect the signals and ground on the pcb to some kind of connection and the buttons and joystick on the panel to the matching end of the connection.
This setup would takes less than 2 mins to switch. Of course i was a little bit lazy on mine right here because it was the last connector i had and i did not have shrink wrap that was thick enough to make it nice and neat on the panel side but razer can get an idea from this.
did you try thinking about 18 pin molex connectors?
i was planning on putting those in a “hidden” build i had planned to get done this summer but didn’t have time
edit:
blklightning’s suggestion of a 15 pin vga cable works too but it seems suited for a TE instead of a custom since you don’t have to use an input for home
oh never mind its a 6 button hrap v-series with one of your custom metal panels :3
I agree with the intent, but I’d still maintain that the best way is to implement a ‘distro block’ similar to the TE sticks, and have it mounting on the underside of the top panel. Top plate buttons and stick connect to that distro board, and a single ribbon cable goes from that distro board to the pcb mounted in the center rear of the case. It make removing/swapping top panels a cinch, and especially if they put a power line into one of the ribbon cable wires, after market LED controllers and programmable stick interfaces become a cinch to wire and setup.
If they skip SOCD cleaning in their main PCB? No biggie. Make a distrobution block that does the SOCD cleaning.
Imagine how much easier working on a TE would be if the distro block was attached to the bottom of the metal panel? Just lift, undo three ribbon cables, and the whole wiring mess just lifts off. Even easier if those went to a singe large ribbon cable, and better++ if it connected in the back along the Razer’s hinge to the main PCB immediately underneath.
I can draw or picture or try to rig up an demonstration if I’m unclear.
When you gonna make a PCB with this feature cause I want one =D
Signal:noise is bad here. Ask in PM, BUTTHOLE, or anywhere else and I’ll do my best.
I believe you guys are arguing too much about the harness. At the end of the day, what it needs is to simply have:
- easily identifiable wiring (color coding or labels)
- ability to fit multiple types of buttons (not just OBSF-30s).
Actually that is something i was going to do when i first thought about how to wire up for easily swappable panels, but i wasnt sure how the pcb(if i had one made up) or the breadboard would hold up to the constant vibrations from hitting the buttons. Not only that, i was also afraid of the ribbon connection coming loose because of the vibration from buttons being hit. because i wanted to make it swappable it would not be glued like they are in the TE.
Thats when i looked into db connections and the db 15 became my best friend because of the ease of soldering to the points. The 2 row connection would be better but i did not see those at the shack
They should have put the label on those black QD they used, theres enough space to label X, Y, A, B, RB, RT, LT, LB…
I’ll wait for the time they decide to release a super batshit LED modded stick ;D