ok i fucked up when i was taking the triggers off… :mad: the right trigger POT ripped off and took off the traces where its feet were…
the rest of my soldering i believe is fine, but when testing the stick… START and A dont work… Left and right dont work unless a diagonal is used…, and both up and down on the stick is up…
is it possible that the trigger issue is the cause of the other problems, or did i fuck up somewhere in the soldering
I have searched and looked around but fuck it I might as well ask:
Im making a new stick for the 360 from the ground up, I ordered the buttons so far but I need a stick.
My question is what stick from lizardlick should I be ordering to patch into a setup that has a pad hacked? Does it matter as long as it has micro switches? Is there a general stick that works for most applications?
I’m a bit electronics illiterate, so forgive me, but what value should the multimeter set to read resistance read when there’s no short? I have the probes on the power and ground of the USB section of the pad, and it’s reading at about 300 ohms if I’m reading it correctly. According to Toodles’ instructable, it should read infinity? I asked around and one guy said that as long as it’s not in the pico/nano ohm range it should be fine. I don’t want to blow anything up, so a definite answer would be nice!
The multimeter I’m using is an old analog multimeter, which is why I’m uncertain as to whether I’m reading it correctly or not.
300 is kind of an odd number to see but it’s actually an okay number to have (at 5v, it’d be 16mA of current). I’d say give it a try.
On your friend’s PC
Absolute do-not-go-below resistance: I’d say 100 Ohms. On a 360 pad by itself, I would expect the resistance between power and ground to be about 1.6k (six total 10k ohm potentiometers)
i also have used the search but only came up with what Yo’ Daddy already asked about. i know nothing about multimeters and such so i was wondering if anyone had any luck finding a diagram for the updated Mad Catz pcb. i bought 2 at Fry’s in November and it seems they may have different solder points than that of the diagram on Slagcoin. my problem differs from Yo’ Daddy’s slightly: Up, Down, A and Start all produce a down input and my Left and Right inputs only work when i hit the diagonals. i just finished my Twin Agetec mod and this wiring is the only thing holding me back. thanks in advance for any help =)
First post on the SRK forums here, so I figure I might as well make it a contributing one.
I’ve done some searching, and no one else seems have to taken pics or info on it, so here goes.
I needed to rig up my joysticks for Tatsunoko vs Capcom on the Wii. I get to the store, and I see the Intec Retro Controller for $5 less than the official Nintendo Classic Controllers. So I grab two to try it out.
Opening up the pad, removing the excess parts, gets you this. Not so different from a regular Classic Controller after all. I’ve labeled the solder points for everyone’s convenience. Note that, to make the R/L buttons work, you’ll need to add the circuit that Jesster posted previously (here: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5872248&postcount=1931)
There’s Ground solder points all over the place… just use whatever’s most convenient for you.
First let me say I’m 100% new to this so any help even the most rudimentary of advice would be appreciated.
For starters my goal is to make my old MAS stick compatible with my 360. I’m thinking that instead of buying an official pad any old POS cheapo pad should work just as well, is that true?
I have access to my school’s electronics lab so I have all the equipment I need save a star screwdriver for opening up the 360 pad, but I guess I can just safely bust the thing open without breaking anything.
What I don’t know about is how to use the grounds on the controller itself. My stick is currently compatible with PS1/2 and DC. The wiring job inside looks pretty clean so I’m thinking all I have to do is mount the controller board inside the stick and run second sets of wires to the new board. Is this true or do I need to make a command decision and detatch the old board?
I’ve a question about the xbox360 MS wireless controller. I need to know the soldier pad where I can grab the maximum given voltage. I don’t want to go to directly to batterie pack, because I need above 3V and my app will always “on”. I assume that there must be some sort of step up converter…
Sorry man, you’re out of luck. There isn’t any sort of step up converter; they don’t need higher voltage, and it’d cut into the power they pulled from the batteries. RDC also said that it’ll be less voltage is a PnC kit is used. If you need more than 3v, you’ll have to include your own step up converter, and figure out a way to make it only on when needed. http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5920526&postcount=3
PCB in my hrap 2 sa isnt dectected when i use my mayflash joybox when it used to before i switched my buttons from seimitsu to sanwa. But both of my friends use thiers and theres no fuck ups. So im gonna get a used official sony ps2 controller i need a diagram on how to hack please help. Thanks. PM or aim would be good to
anybody knows what this PCB is?
found it in a french ebay shop, says it works on ps, ps2 and pc without lag.
if anybody knows what this is, will it work with a “Total Control 2”?
What is the easiest/safe way to remove the “black stuff” from a pcb? I was working on a GameCube control and I used a exacto-knife to remove it, and I’m pretty sure I broke it in the process, could I have accidently cut the trace by pushing too hard?
Quick question. I’m soldering a PS1 dualshock, done it before no problems. Now this time the O button gets no response. Tried using a different sanwa button and no difference. Long story short, is it possible to damage one point on a PCB, i.e. put too much heat/solder on it? Noob question I know, but any help is greatly appreciated.
