http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/5321/dscf0130jk2fk0.jpg
anybody knows what this PCB is?
found it in a french ebay shop, says it works on ps, ps2 and pc without lag.
if anybody knows what this is, will it work with a “Total Control 2”?
What is the easiest/safe way to remove the “black stuff” from a pcb? I was working on a GameCube control and I used a exacto-knife to remove it, and I’m pretty sure I broke it in the process, could I have accidently cut the trace by pushing too hard?
Is there a specific product you guys use?
Thanks
Quick question. I’m soldering a PS1 dualshock, done it before no problems. Now this time the O button gets no response. Tried using a different sanwa button and no difference. Long story short, is it possible to damage one point on a PCB, i.e. put too much heat/solder on it? Noob question I know, but any help is greatly appreciated.
There’s no brand name I know of associated with it, but I think its the same one that is in the Mayflash/Elecom stick. I can’t guarantee 100% it is, but I’d check the converter thread to see if anyone has used that converter with a Mayflash or Elecom stick.
99% sure it is. I don’t think they changed the HRAP pcb’s at all between versions, and I know the HRAP2 one sure as hell is.
Scrape it off lightly with an exacto knife. Drag the blade over it, instead of cutting into it.
As for breaking it, you can accidentally cut the trace going to the black stuff. Best thing to do to check is use a multimeter. Eyeball where the trace goes to find an exposed spot on that line, like a via or where a chip leg is soldered to it. Check the resistance between the spot you’re trying to solder to and that exposed point. If the resistance is infinite, then the trace has been cut and you need to figure a way around it. See below. If the resistance is an actual number, you’re fine.
If you put too much heat on a point, what usually happens is the copper trace comes off of the board. Lifts up and often breaks. But, you’re asking ‘what if’ instead of finding the problem. Use your multimeter to find the resistance between the ground QD for that button and ground on the PCB itself. The resistance should be very low, almost 0. Check the resistance between the signal QD for that button and where you have it soldered to the pcb; again, should be low almost 0. Then eyeball the spot for the O button and follow it to an exposed spot, like a via or where a chip leg is soldered. Check resistance, again hoping for low. If any of these are a high resistance, you’ve got a break between those two points you need to fix. If you’re worried about the spot you soldered, just do the same check using the signal QD from the button for one probe and the visible exposed spot with the other.
Secondly, triple check the spots with the PCB diagram from slagcoin’s.
Lastly, set the multimeter to check voltage. Put the black probe on a ground spot on the pcb, and use the red probe to check the voltage on the two QD’s on the button. You should read 0 volts on the ground QD, and some number on the signal QD, as long as the pad is plugged into something.
Thanks for the tip Toodles, I guess I was a little too ambitious with it. Gonna give it another shot shortly, hopefully with better results.
I can’t tell you what that is, but it’s not what I pulled out of my Mayflash. The Mayflash board is longer and not as wide, and has a few contacts for start, select, turbo and clear buttons. Unless Elecom uses a different board than Mayflash for their sticks, which is doubtful.
Would a SPIFFYSHOES hack work on a sixaxis?
C:\Documents and Settings\esjihn.MOTEK-641BEB4E5\My Documents\My Pictures\ps2_diagram1.jpg
Currently hacking that pad
need to know where the 8 and 9 commons need to goto.
I giggled a little. Anyway, you probably meant this picture:
9 is the common ground for start, select, and the analog buttons, 8 is the common ground for the rest. Therefore, 8 should connect to one terminal of each face button and to the stick, and 9 should connect to the buttons for start and select. I’ve never hacked a ps2 board myself, so I don’t know what to do with the resistor, but it’s probably in this thread somewhere.
oops LMAO i meant to do that pic from the site damn i look like a scrub now :sad:
that should help me out tons i dont think the resistor needs to go anywhere but if someone knows post up plz!
I soldered my first PCB tonight (Nyko Airflow for PC). It was a lot easier than I expected. I just took my time, tested each connection every once in a while, made sure my solder didn’t bleed onto other metal contacts, and hotglued my work down after confirming it worked. I’ll likely be getting my buttons and stick from LizardLick tomorrow, build up the frame and have it done by the weekend. 
Esjihn, have you tested just connecting a loose wire from the grounds to the signals? If they all work without any problems, then you probably don’t need to move resistors around at all.
Not yet wiring tonight when i get back home tommorow im gonna test and see if everything is good to go (w/o wiring the resistor) Ill give an update. If someone knows for sure though post up! Thanks guys!
EDIT well stayed up later then i should have to test and… nothing no responce and the red light that on the led i left in there isnt on i wired everything except the analog and resistance so im gonna try a few thing on my end if anyone has any suggestions please help thanks.
EDIT2:
If it matches the DS2 dev measured out for me, you need about a 5k ohm. Wire up eash direction/button to the obvious line, daisy chain a common line like you normally would for a common ground setup, but instead of connecting it to ground, you connect it to the resistor, and the other end fo the resistor goes to the VCC line.
But, unless you tackle it with a multimeter, noone can say with 100% certainty
I researched this from an old dead thread. Posted by toodles would this be what i would need to do? Oh and VCC line would be the 3.3v correct?
ok i think i’ve just wrecked my first sixaxis 
maybe not. anyways i have a question for those that have done the sixaxis mod.
I’ve tried both solderless and soldering and basically i can get the buttons on the right side to work but no matter what i try i can’t get the D-Pad nor L1 and L2 to work. I soldered a 1/8W 8.2K resistor between both 7 and 8 and 13 and 14. for some reason even trying to use the number 7 common (the common for the D-pad) to manually complete the circuit the just won’t register. What could be the problem?
the analog stick works fine so the controller seems to be all right, but then again when i stick the ribbon cable back in (without added resistors) the controller goes crazy. Triangle seems to be stuck. I’m baffled. I think my quest for a wireless stick is going to end unless someone can point me in the right direction.
alright i daisy chained start and select to ground 9 on the ds2 A pad. Then seperately daisy chained the rest of the buttons and the stick to the resistor and then put the other 8 ground to the 3.3v but only start and select register. i might find out the problem but any suggestions?
done the resistor nor the analog need to be plugged up you have to keep the ribbon in and just put the respectable split the grounds accordingly and everything works. If anyone needs help wiring a PS2 DS2 Early version A hit me up its easy 
anybody know how to do a madcatz ps2 dual shock???
Thanks for the great pics. You should still label a ground point on the image so that you don’t have to explain it separately with text.
slagcoin says this about the hkt-7700
Dreamcast HKT-7700 (Lags)
an original controller that lags on its own console? is this true?
L and R buttons lag on this.
It’s advised to either get a MadCatz dreampad (but it has to be the right version) or use a PS1 DS pad plus ps-to-dc converter.
I’m going to go the second route since it’s also less likely to have blue screen.
anyone know if the new sf4 fight pads are hackable?