Wii Classic controller hack completed
Finally got the Wii Classic Controller hack working 100% with the linked analog/digital shoulder button signals. Adding the diodes did the trick. In case anyone else is looking to hack one of these here’s a diagram of the final solution to get the L/R triggers working:
-=The Jesster: Gatchaba Goose=-
Very curious about this too, I think its a ground issue, but I’m having this problem with my duel pcb stick.
built up the wiring of my stick up tonight and it works 95% flawless.
only hiccup was that the triggers are full on now, instead of full off
in reference to this picture:
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/4277/solderpoints2ra5.jpg
I soldered a 1000 ohm resistor on either side, on the the two outermost pins. Leaving the interior one empty with nothing connected to it.
Do I need to ground this 3rd connection? did i solder the the resistor between the wrong two? halp! 
thanks all
picture of my wiring
IceWilly,
What is the part number on the board? You may need to get some transistors to get the triggers to work right. Go back a page or two I posted a link to another thread with the information. Toodles can help you here too.
Michael
**edit, I went back and saw the pic of your pad. The part number is above the left joystick #4716. That is the same one that I have. You’ll need two transistors as well as four resistors to get them working right.
Well, I don’t honestly care if the triggers work right. I don’t want functionality from them. I just want them to be switched off so they don’t activate randomly on menus and things.
The solder pad just came off the wiper of one of them… oh joy
edit: I’m not sure this is clear… I had never planned on making the left and right triggers into usable buttons. I just wanted them to not be active or cause problems when i disassembled the controller. I had just assumed that by removing the triggers I would be forced to “neutral” them. I took off the resistors and now the buttons appear to be just off. (with nothing connected to any of the 3 terminals) This is what i had originally wanted so I guess i will just run with it. Maybe this fact was common sense to others, but I had just assumed otherwise.
Well hell, I misunderstood completely then. If you weren’t going to hook them to buttons, then you could just turn the pots all of the way to whatever direction shows as not pressed and hot glued them in place. Live and learn.
To lock them has unpressed, on that pad that has them active high, put a resistor between the middle wiper pin and ground. In a pinch you could just short them with a piece of wire but a resistor would be better.
hey Jesster. what tool did you use to open the wii classic? im about head to home depot to find it. can you also post pics of will classic hack. or you can pm me. is it possible to only wire 4 buttons since TVC uses 4 buttons?
You’ll need a tri-wing screwdriver to open it. You may have trouble finding one in a retail stores. A quick google search should point you to several places you can order one from.
I could take pictures, but I’m not sure they’d be much help as mine is currently mounted in a project box, with taped up trigger fixes obscuring much of it. That, and I only have my cell phone to take the picture with.
If all you want to do is wire up the four main face buttons, it should be pretty straight forward. Just ignore the triggers (put a little tape or hot glue on the slider pots to hold them in their unpressed position). The face buttons are pretty easy to solder to once you scrape off the black coating on the contacts. I used a dremel tool, but you can probably do it by hand with a little steel wool or something.
-=The Jesster: Gatchaba Goose=-
sent you a PM, Jesster. thanks.
This is Krost’s brother (the guy who made the “2 PCB’s one stick” thread).
I installed my first 360 PCB in my brother’s stick for Xmas. I first used a late version Gamestop (Madcatz) PCB, but I ripped off the traces on one of the triggers by accident when attempting to desolder them. I since learned a better way of removing them. I still will probably use it, as I prefer using the bumpers and changing the mapping if needing instead of messing with the trigger nonsense.
Anyway, I threw in a MadCatz arcade stick (the small, square one) and desoldered the “trigger squares” (for lack of a better word) right this time. I used a 4.7k resistor on the 2nd and 3rd pins on each trigger. They are not being used as buttons. The analog sticks are left alone - I didn’t think it was necessary to desolder them, if anything, I could add some hot glue to make sure they don’t wiggle around inside the controller.
We played about an hour of HD Remix this morning (new Jasper’s for Xmas :>) and his controller was working perfectly. However, we had in issue where the up direction would get stuck. Shaking the controller didn’t make a difference, so i don’t think it has anything to do with a loose wire touching the PCB. The only way we can make it stop is if we unplug and replug the USB cable. The first time, it happened within 5 minutes of playing. The second time, it took about 15 minutes of playing. It didn’t happen again after about 40 minutes of playing. Is there an obvious answer as to why the controller will randomly do that?
Just to give a complete picture of how it’s setup - the buttons and ground are at a barrier strip, and the PCB is joined at the other side of the barrier strip. Currently there is only one PCB hooked up - a PS2 will be added once I get the XBox PCB working solid.
Thanks guys.
Edit: Merry Christmas
Edit 2: Happy Holidays
Crap, one of the copper pads I was soldering to fell off. I’m using the MadCatz 360 pad, is there a way I can salvage this? There’s still a tiny bit of conductive material on it (tested with a multimeter). It’s the middle trace that attaches to the d-pad PCB.
Will this NPN transistor work?..
and for the Diode will this work?..
If not do you know where i can buy the correct NPN transistor and Diode.
Yes and Yes.
But a smaller 4148 would probably be easier to work with, cheaper, and smaller.
i have a bit of a problem guys. can anyone who’s done the wireless 360 controls tell me if this will affect my game playing at all? i desoldered the sticks. on one of them i was getting better at desoldering so i removed the stick pots AND the STICK CLICK button. don’t know if this makes a difference.
here’s a pic of what i’m seeing through the wireless adapter now.
fyi: i soldered 10k resistors according to the info on this thread and RDCs original posts and threads.
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/9523/testctrlqw7.th.png
i’m SO close to finishing up this box that i’d probably give up out of frustration if i wired up the control wrong.
My guess is that since you locked down the analog stick with resistors you should be fine. The only way to find out for sure is to finish up the wiring and test it out on your PC then the 360.
Michael
thanks for the response. only reason i ask is because those bars should be all evened out right? the POV hat and the other side is centered, if i remember correctly (which i don’t) those are the ana sticks. crosses fingers
I normally use 4.7k ohm resistors to replace the analogs, 10k may be a bit much. However if both resistors on the pot are the same then it shouldn’t make much difference. The best way to determine the optimal size is to use a multi meter and measure the resistance between the two outer legs of the pot. Divide this number in half and get resistors that are close to the resulting value.
thanks for the advice kaytrim.
as it turns out the POV hat is the Dpad. the XroYro are the Right ana stick. but since it’s the Right one it won’t matter if it seems to drift a bit. seems to be a bit random, sometimes the control looks Neutral in windows, then a power cycle on the control and it looks like the photo. pretty random. maybe one of my resistors is loose.
the Triggers themselves are working nicely. soldering and desoldering this board wasn’t as hard as i thought it would be. looks like i’ll be able to do some more wireless sticks for my friends without fear of the board. though i did lift a hairline trace on this one. i was able to fix it with some glue and solder.
thanks for the advice on pot resistance.
Does any one know how to use a d-sub if so help me. I wanted to learn how to wired it to the psone pcb???
