the help is appreciated toodles. I have no intention of using the triggers as functioning buttons in this setup, I was just wondering if the neutraling out reset them to an on/off state. If i do not want to use them as functioning buttons… then i just pop a resistor between the two spots in Zombies thread and call it a day? Currently I have the small pushbuttons still attached. If i leave those on to i have to go through any of that trouble?
I might remove the joystick boxes simply to buy myself a little less depth on the mounting solution, we’ll see how it works out. If its a matter of buying 4 resistors (2 for each trigger) or 12 resistors (2 for each trigger(4), 2 for each of the 2 axis on both sticks (8)) and they are cheap enough I might just do it that way.
Is there any reason why I can’t remove the leads for the headset connection, relocate it to the outside of the box, and then run wires back to the original locations?
Is there a way to buy a seperate headset jack… find the connections for the only the center minijack port… and then tap in to those connections? the one i use doesn’t plug into the 2 little side slots, only the central shaft.
Yeah, that’s what I figured. Kinda lame that a game like TvC is using the analog and not the digital input. Getting my pushbutton to trigger both is exactly what I’m trying to do, but its complicated by the fact that the signals are opposite. For the digital button, voltage is high when not pressed and low when pressed. For the slider, voltage is low when not pressed and high when pressed.
I’m thinking a digital inverter is required, but I’m not entirely sure how to hook it up.
Okay, I tried the fix with the NPN transistor and that works as long as the analog trigger is hooked up to its own button. However, when I try to link both the digital button and the analog trigger to up to the same button on my stick, the digital button continuously fires.
Any suggestions?
I’m thinking maybe a diode running from the the shared button contact to the signal line on the transistor assembly might do the trick.
That sounds good to me. I don’t know why the high voltage from the pullup resistor would freak out the digital line, but a diode from the digital signal line to the analog line should fix it just fine.
so what type of soldering irons are you guys using? i am wanting to get a “joystick assembley/dissasembly kit” here and i just want to know what type of stuff i should get…like certain size tools for bolts (common sizes in hori, happ or whatever). what is a good size soldering iron to get and where should i get it from? home depot?
Can someone give me some pointers about hacking a dualshock? I picked one up off of eBay hoping that it would be one of the older, hack-friendly ones that had an actual wire ribbon connincting to a PCB for the buttons, but ufortunately I have the newer, crappier kind that uses cheap plastic film instead.
I’m guessing that the first order of business is to remove the plastic sheet, but I don’t really know where to start. Is there going to be any really, really tiny solder work involved here?
I imagine if I could just take out the plastic thing that the plastic sheet is connected to, it’d be really easy to solder everything to the metal pins that are there, but I don’t know what the best way to do that is.
Never mind. I discovered that the ribbon came out pretty easily, and that wiring is only a matter of inserting stripped 22 guage solid wire into each slot on the connector strip. No soldering necessary!
Well, I kind of stripped the PCB down to where it matches the one in the SlagCoin diagram. Can I simulate pressing the trigger when only the potentiometers remain?
edited: I also need help on the mad catz retro stick. Anyone know how to use the triggers, because I’d like to have the default layout that the Hori EX2 uses with the trigger. thanks. :tup:
Can you tell which way the pots move when the trigger is pressed? If so, move them to where they’d be with the trigger unpressed and measure the resistance between the wiper and ground, then move them to where they’d be with the trigger pressed and measure again.
If the resistance is lower when the trigger is pressed, its active low, and easy to work with. If the resistance is higher when the trigger is pressed, its active high, in which case you’ll need to invert the signal as described on the last page of this thread.
