Newest MK30 finished (minus finishing touches)!
More at: www.facebook.com/jasenscustoms
What gauge wire did you use for the AC voltage lines?
I also decided to wire up my Video pots for my soon to be Super Gun, in the picture is also the custom scart cable that matches that mini din 8 connector.
Very nice. That’s the one thing about the MK48 I didn’t include… video pots. But its ok, I remedied that in the MK30.
For the AC lines I use 14gauge. If you hit up Home Depot they sell 14-3 (Black, White, Green twisted and sleeved) AC Wiring for about $1.79 a foot. Its the cheapest low volume solution I have found and it works great. It comes off of a roll and its very flexible so it supports nice bends and such.
NEO GEO MVS battery mod on a MV-1 board.
Remove the old battery, remove the 470k resistor, solder in coin cell holder.
Warring: For other modders different boards require a different mod for your board.
Try Jamma Nation Xor Hard MVS on how to mod your particular MVS board
Invisible supergun? Maybe time for arcade PCB modding/repair thread?
-ud
Well I still in the prep phase, my order for my super gun parts been delayed until Jasen gets back to the States.
Arcade board repairs can get mad complicated but why not.
MVS battery mods are much easier than dealing with a CPS2 battery replacement
A bad MVS board battery is not an issue till it starts to leak and corrode near by parts, a Dead CPS2 battery is a board that committed suicide.
Whooohoooo.
And my Supergun360 gets a small upgrade.
Nothing different at all externally.
For starters, I added in 2x @undamned’s UD-USBs in there, so that the two USB ports are now functional! When the Supergun is placed vertically, the left one is P1 and the right one is P2.
I decided to leave the DA-15 jacks in the front; it took considerable effort to get them to fit nicely, and I really didn’t feel like undoing that work.
Plus it provides a nice way to troubleshoot, and also additional options in terms to inputs (Neo-Geo gear, or any controller connected to my FGW Converters).
Added a DPDT switch inside the cable storage area (it’s kinda hard to make out in the picture).
This came as a consequence of one of my (regrettable) decisions early on in my design for the build.
My original intention for the Supergun360 was essentially solely to play CPS2, and maybe CPS3 boards. At the time, didn’t care to get MVS support, so I snipped of JAMMA wires 10, 24/b,25/c. Wire 10 because all Capcom-related boards can do stereo audio via the RCA jacks, and 24/b & 25/c because all Capcom games use buttons 4 and 5 (and 6) via the Kick harness.
Later on, I realized that, while I still don’t really care for MVS (there really was never games that I really cared for on that platform), I might eventually get some straight-up JAMMA boards (say, for example, a Cave shmup PCB). I’d need to retain the original JAMMA wiring to the 4th and 5th button, as well as JAMMA audio. So both players’ JAMMA 4th and 5th buttons are piggybacked to the same input wires as the Kick harness’ Short/Forward wires, and JAMMA audio (wire 10) is now permanently connected to an attenuation circuit. While I can test the JAMMA audio (even with the attenuation circuit, it’s a little louder for my tastes, but oh well), I actually have no means at the moment to test my JAMMA buttons 4 and 5.
Anyhow, the DPDT in place now is to toggle between the original stereo RCA plugs that store in the cable-storage (for CPS2/CPS3/Naomi), or dual-mono JAMMA audio (for MVS, or standard JAMMA boards).
And now I hope I’ll never have to open the thing up again. 
MVS board I started with, a NEO GEO MVS MV-1, the only 1 Slot boards that compatible with the MV-IC Memory card readers (for Neo Geo memory Cards) and support stereo sound.
Board’s battery mod, battery issues are not as critical on NEO GEO boards as they are on the Capcom CPS2 boards, but old batteries can and will leak.
This allows me to keep the boards bios settings (clock and calendar) with a normal CR 2025. It involves unsoldering the old axial board battery and removing a resistor to disable battery charging as the CR2025 is a lithium battery and not nickle cadmium.
Video RGB pots.
Setting up the board for Stereo Sound. Sterio sound comes from the side Speaker and Headset headers and not the Jamma Harness on this particular MVS board.
**Please Note for those who want to build a Super Gun for their own NEO GEO boards that the NEO GEO boards have there sound wired differently than standard Jamma.
Connecting a NEO GEO MVS Stereo sound output for a Jamma Mono setup or vice versa could ruin your main board and the rest of your arcade cab or super gun.
In the process of wring up the Super gun, everything done here except the controller ports, the coin, test and service buttons.
I skipped wiring up that DB-9 as I don’t need a Kick harness yet.
I also found that carefully peeling off the label from the Happ Power Supply case and applying it to the bottom of the super gun really helped to identity what each screw terminal did on the PSU.
The final Super Gun with MVS board.
An NEO GEO AES Arcade stick thats been rewired ,repaired and modded for my use.
I also got a NEO GEO X Arcade stick in a state of disassembly awaiting parts for its own mod to DB-15 Format
Please note the Seimitsu 24mm push buttons and Seimitsu 30mm Red ball top.
Both sticks will later get some nice LEDs as well.
Well done! I love that MK48 in all sandtex black 
Are you planning on doing anything with the RCA Jacks? If not I have some plugs I can send you
In the short term, No. Long term I debating on getting a Jrok or Neobitz video encoder (or NOT) if I am, I am planing to take the super gun anywhere that don’t have a set up for scart.
By plugs I mean blanking plugs I bought a few for another SG i built that had too many RCAs on it for me.
J
I figured thats what you mean, I couldn’t remember what they are called.
Yeah I buy some off of you.
I send em over free
Sweet, thats awesome.
Also what size screws do the holes on the top of the super gun?
6-32. Same as the side screw
There the same size screws as the PCB feet I been using (the white ones in the Pictures)
Now only if you made a cover for the MV-1 board.
You do know there are stand-offs for that audio attenuation circuit right? 
let me guess, in the middle of the case?
Yup, its the 4 stand offs. I wrap my wiring between that and the JROK posts so that it all fits nicely. Not necessary, but included to keep everything buttoned down.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31ptHpYyiiL.jpg
Right now its held in place with a Zip tie anchor.