The "Check out my Supergun!" thread

From the grave I shall resurrect this thread! This MK30 was built for a customer that was referred to me by another customer. Not sure how the word is spreading about the MK30 since I don’t publicly sell the cases yet. Oh well… I’m not complaining!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10302015_1617139218512094_8540330577534004320_n.jpg

probity by “Word of mouth”

Here’s another MK30 that I just finished up. Testing it out on a CPS2 MvC Board.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10487245_1632637553628927_6482431430474218596_n.jpg

Got a RadioShack project box http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062285. I got a Vogatek MK V and two UD USB DECODERS AND a pico power supply. How in the heck do I mount this stuff in the projext box? Parts etc?

@PrinceMurphy‌

Your best bet is figure out how you’re going to mount everything, figure out your wiring layout, and use PCB mounting feet glued into the casing to mount stuff.

One day I’ll have a supergun. Maybe if I sell all these old consoles I don’t want anymore.

Ill post up my newest one later tonight :smiley:

The Brains…

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/10575318_1684053478487334_4994505223203906892_o.png

The Braun…

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/10547018_1683093515249997_7246151689847249904_o.png

Naturally, I swapped the G/B Knobs when finishing it up to take pictures. Suppose I will have to reshoot this weekend. Oh well… more reasons to have fun with the camera.

Is the new board exclusive to the new Mk30 or can it be used in other Super gun builds?

The board is exclusive to the MK30ADCAP builds. Nothing technically prevents it from standing alone (the prototype sat on my bench), but I designed it and the case and the rest of the parts to all work together to speed up builds.

Yeah, hand wiring a system is so laborious. I put a ton of planning into the UD-CPS2 design for the same reason. Basically the only thing I have to solder by hand is the power & audio lines :smiley:
-ud

There still some crimping and soldering involved with the ADCAP build, but its so much better and easier this way. Plus… who knows what the future holds with this foundation :smiley:

Hrmmm…what does the future hold…so much space in my MK30 for hrmm more stuff?

RISE

https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10540873_10103612289210368_5013340377201885991_o.jpg

MAS Super Nova. This thing is awesome, works great. Got 5volts wired to each stick to power the perfect 360s.

Hey Darksakul, how hard is it to mod the AES stick? I would love to do the balltops and buttons (along with anything else).

Ball top is easy, its just like any other ball top, they just unscrew.

As for the buttons, have your soldering iron ready as you have to unsolder those switched from the PCB inside.
Then you have to solder in new wiring for the new buttons.

You need to use 24mm buttons and I would highly recommend Seimitsu screw-in buttons.
Sanwa Snap-ins will not cut it, and I doubt Sanwa screw-ins would work unless you use Seimitsu button nuts (yes the nuts from Seimitsu screw ins work on screw in Sanwas).

Awesome, thanks for the info. Any more pics of the stick, BTW?

Question:
I own an RGB monitor and am wondering if it is nescessary to install a video encoder in a custom supergun build?

The board output rgb and the monitor accepts it, safe to assume that is a step I can skip? Is there hiccups possible due to foregoing that part of the process?

Minus the video encoder (if reasonable) the I need:

  • case of some sort
  • power supply
  • coin, test, start buttons
  • on/off switch
  • jamma harness (with kicks)
  • video pots (for cleanliness)
  • usb encoders (one of which I have now)

Does that look about right?

If you have a RGB monitor and your arcade board out put RGB you are good to go for video.
I am assuming of course that your video is at 15khz and so is your monitor

You don’t even need the video pots, but it does not hurt. If (and only if) you find the video is too dark I also add 220u capacitors on each video line along with the pots to fine tune your video brightness.
Video pots is to darken the video if the picture is too bright not for cleanliness. Cleaning comes from a Video cleanner, perhaps a sync cleaner but I would not get one unless getting a nice image becomes a issue.

For general use I recommend the Happs switching Power Supply as it comer most older boards, Neo GEO MVS and Capcom CPSII requirements.
What arcade board you are planing to use? I Know Naomi boards need a more robust power supply than the Happs Power Supply.

Everything else looks like it’s in order.

Thanks for the help! I have an atomiswave now, looking to get cps2/3 and mvs soon.