Wow - since TEs are available all over the place, I was thinking about getting one despite having a perfectly good working Sanwa-modded SE.
Don’t think I’ll bother now if loads of people are having button malfunctions - no way I’m parting with 150 for a stick that doesn’t work properly! And I thought it was bad enough that I had to pay for a load of new Sanwa parts to get a working SE. Mad Catz quality still sucks!!!
Well, you usually never hear from everyone who has perfectly working sticks, because they don’t find these threads and complain. You’re only seeing the bad experiences, which are probably a very small percentage compared to the working ones.
I found another fault with my TE stick, now that i received a working one… that panel that hides your cable away didnt close on my old stick, they somehow managed to wire it so that the cylinder thing would prevent it from shutting lol. And i thought that was normal
**dogueboy **seems you are in the UK using 
buy from amazon… they are 99. also if its faulty, they will send out a replacement **BEFORE **you even send back the faulty one. You then have 30 days to send back your faulty stick free of charge (assuming u have a printer and can print their DHL label). Service from amazon is faultless. Madcatz quality of putting a stick together is a bit shoddy…
I had the RT button problem as well. Make sure you have the entire cable uncoiled and not in the compartment. Strange as it may be, the problem went away when I didn’t have some of the wire coiled up in the compartment. It’s a bit unwieldy for me since I sit pretty close to my 360 but I haven’t had the RT button dying on me in the middle of matches since.
I’m starting to think that’s the issue as well. I haven’t been able to reproduce the problem since that one time my cable was a bit coiled. Been mashing the hell out of RT/LT in training mode to no avail.
This is the reply I received today:
I highly suggest that anyone that has experienced this problem should at least send an e-mail to get their attention. It would definitely help everyone who has a MadCatz stick or is looking to buy one. Hopefully these e-mails can reach the company and possibly resolve this issue in the most direct method possible.
I just sent MadCatz Tech Support an e-mail as well, and I encourage others to do the same.
My brother and I have been having problems with the RT button on our TE sticks as well. Like most people, it happens randomly, and the fix seems to be to unplug/replug.
His 360 TE stick was sent to Madcatz, and I’m seriously thinking about sending mine in once we get his back. Has anybody else sent their stick in for repair? If so, was it completely fixed once you got it back?
Do you have the USB cord pulled all the way out?
Yes; there’s no extra slack tucked into the compartment.
I have been having a similar problem, except with the RB button. It started out the same way you guys have been describing it. The button would stop working mid-match, so I would have to unplug and replug the stick in, and that would solve it. Then it started to become more and more common, eventually to the point where the button stopped working altogether. I figured out that it is detecting the RB button as being constantly held down (I did this by holding down the turbo button as I was reconnecting the USB cable).
So I went about the process of elimination, trying to see what was wrong with the stick. After some testing, I have isolated the problem to the main PCB. I have disconnected all of the wires leading to the PCB, so it is basically the lone PCB connected to the 360 by the USB cable wire. And it still detecting the RB button as being held down.
So I guess the problem has to be a PCB short. If anyone knows the next step to take, please post!
I’ll say it before and I’ll say it again. I had the same RT button problem and sending it in to Madcatz to get the PCB replaced did not fix it. If you have any of the wire still coiled up in the wire compartment in the back of the TE then take it all out so the wire is uninhibited by anything. If that doesn’t work then maybe you should send it into Madcatz for some more troubleshooting, but I honestly believe they don’t even know what the problem is because as I said, the PCB replacement did not fix it.
Actually, something similar happened today, though it was the most bizarre. I was playing a match and the turbo switches all lit up. Every single button was supposedly pressed down and my character continuously walked to the right. :lame:
Had the RT + Crouching problem happen three matches in a row on XBL, then haven’t had it happen for 2 weeks.
…Mind you, my stick is dual modded so all I’m going to get out of MadCrap is a “lol, gl!”
Yep, my RT button will go out randomly throughout the week (maybe once every 20 hours of gameplay).
Unplugging/replugging the TE fixes it.
I can tell you guys now it is NOT a button problem. And this is proven by something else you might not have noticed…
When the RT (HK) button stops working, you will notice if you turn the console off, the Home button on the stick remains lit up and you cannot power up your console with the Home button anymore. Also you will often be stuck in crouch position implying there is a short in the circuit with the direction micro-switches as well.
If it were a problem with just the RT and LT buttons which could be solved by swapping out the components then this issue with the Home button would not arise as they are on completely separate parts of the PCB.
Thankfully it seems that the problem is perfectly solved by completely unplugging the stick from the USB port and then reconnecting it. This would imply that it was some sort of problem with the circuitry shorting out and you need to remove all power from the board to reset it.
So if you contact MadCatz in future don’t let them tell you it is as simple as swapping out a button.
This is **very **important information that should be mentioned if anyone else decides to send an e-mail to MadCatz customer support (and I highly encourage more e-mails :rock:).
I can back up this as well from my own testing a little earlier. I didn’t know you’re unable to power back on but I do know that the home button light does not switch off after powering down.
Good stuff! :tup:
I noticed this with my stick too (xb360), wondering why the green light would still be on when my console wasn’t. I opened mine up and switched around the wiring so that the HK button goes to one of the black buttons. Not the most optimal solution, but mad catz didn’t respond to my email. Haven’t had any problems other than the green light staying on when my console is powered off since tho.
It’s pretty ridiculous that we have to resort to rewiring or sacrificing other things in a $150 peripheral. This shouldn’t be an issue AT ALL and MadCatz hasn’t done anything to publicly address this issue other than “the product is fine keep buying it.” There obviously is a prevalent issue present. We shouldn’t have to return or replace a product at our expense. (I’m aware that retailers and e-tailers like Amazon take care of things like this, but others who purchased from stores like Newegg have to pay for shipping the item back on top of waiting for a replacement to arrive which again is not GUARANTEED to be in fully working condition) It’s almost akin to the 360’s RROD.
Received my TE fightstick from newegg today and the LB button doesn’t work. I moved the wires for the LB button the the prongs for the A button and the button itself works so I’m thinking it’s a pcb issue? I guess it doesn’t really hinder my play since i can still use the regular buttons but it’s kind of frustrating since i paid $150 for this thing. Do they not test these things out?