Thanks Toodles , that’s very clear now.
I’m just waiting for the assembled version now.
@ Speedsterharry, that’s funny, I bought this exact same brand randomly a couple weeks ago, mistaking protex for durex.
Received the package today: ESD bag, complete, perfect!
Soldered everything and it works the first time: wonderful scanlines :). Thanks.
Mine is on the way, will be able to show soon.
I received mine today – could you show some pictures or describe in words how the 2 sets of 6-pin connectors are supposed to be soldered/connected?
I believe that’s in this thread somewhere. Attaching the shield section.
I soldered the headers to the main board, plugged the pins (short side) into them, and then attached the shield with screws and spacers on the corners. The header pins poked through the shield enough for the jumpers.
Got it working – looks great 
It looks like I’m a little late to the party. Any word on when the next batch is coming in?
I should have some more complete v1.6 kits available around wednesday. Im still haggling over prices with the fab house for assembled ones.
Toodles,
Received my v1.6 last week. I’ve never assembled a circuit before but watched two tutorials online before starting. Even though there were a couple changes from the assembly instructions in this thread pager 9 (i.e., extra resistor and shield which I put on backwards at first) I was able to assemble the scanline generator. It works perfect for my MAME!
It’s interesting with the vsync switch, when I boot up the MAME there are no scanlines on the BIOS, scanlines on my frontend, and only in some systems unless I toggle the vsync switch. I must have various resolutions setup and not realized it.
Strange thing though is that when I set it all up at fist I tested it on my TV in the living room through my laptop. It worked but smushed the screen to a small rectangle. Strange… didn’t change anything and it worked fine with my MAME PC.
The ‘smushed’ is entirely the how the tv/monitor handles that resolution; you would have seen the exact same thing without it in place at all.
As for the vsync polarity switch, that has to be set based on the resolution used. One side is for 1048x768 and 640x480, and the other setting is pretty much every other resolution.
Received my kit very quickly and noticed that the R1 and R2 resistors were missing. I’ve got everything else assembled, just waiting on Toodles to reply 
Does anybody know off hand what resistors are used for R1 and R2?
Is it possible to pay a little extra to get this pre-assembled?
It’s been 15 hours since your first email, 8 pm on a Sunday night. I have to sleep sometime.
I’ll have a pair of resistors out to you in tomorrow’s mail. You will likely get an email notice about the shipping label being printed later today.
I dont have the time to properly assemble them at the moment. You can either wait for the final assembled version (6 weeks or there about?) or contact any of the usual modders and they may be able to assemble it for you for a small charge.
Crap. The larger slider is backordered on digikey; I think that’ll push back the TSLG restock until next wednesday (14th). The order is in, and they’ll arrive as soon as possible, and I’ll put them back up the moment they arrive.
Sorry, I didn’t meant to come off as impatient. I wasn’t making the post to complain about you at all - I think you do really great work! I was actually just trying to see if anybody could tell me the resistance used so I could see if I have resistors that would work. I just wanted to point out that I had sent you a message so I wouldn’t get replies asking me if I had contacted you yet. Sorry for the misunderstanding and thank you for mailing out the missing resistors.
Hi all. Is there a date for the sale of T-SLG 1.6?
Ok, got the resistors in and soldered them into R1 and R2. Unfortunately I’m not getting any scanlines. The RGB shield seems to adjust the colors, but nothing to do with scanlines. I asked my friend who has a working SLG 1.6, and he said the shield should adjust the actual scanlines. I have tried with various setups, to include a dreamcast, snes, and computer. I’ve tried with both a tv with vga in and a few regular vga lcd monitors.
Pics of my SLG:
Here are some pictures of the results of moving the shield controls from one side to the other:
Anybody have any ideas? It’s a pretty simple design and I’ve been soldering regularly for over 10 years now. My only thoughts are that maybe one of the components are bad. Thanks in advance for feedback.
Sounds like the polarity switch isn’t set proper for that resolution.
Unfortunately the issues happen regardless of how the polarity switch is set. I have tried with many various settings, all of them yield the same effects
Any other ideas?
Take off the shield, put the jumpers in on JP1 and JP2. Move slide switches around until scanlines are visible.
Then, remove the jumpers, put shield back on with the RGB writing on the male side just like in your picture. Adjust all of the pots to one far side, see what it looks like, then adjust them all of the way to the other. One side should be barely visible scanlines, other should be same darkness as with the jumpers.