where can I buy these sticks? i’ve tried the suzo website but they’re not responding to my emails (its been over a week now).
not responding to their emails either. It doesnt say whether they sell the 32mm ball top version.
do you have the 32mm ball top inductives, or are they stc’s?
I bought in suzo 4 months ago. And they had it still. Yes, Suzo answers long. But I would try to to come into contact with them. They have on 100% versions 32mm and only ver. 32mm. they have not 38.
you cant take the magnet thing off, i tried and broke it to pieces. Now I have to get a new resin core. You have to take the clip off but its hard as hell. On my other one i replaced the ring with an e-ring from an old comp stick.
You can mount it like any other stick just make sure the hole is big enough to fit base of the joystick underneath. I would put a dust cover on also.
I still havent had a chance to hook mine up yet though , since I got some old school wico p360s off of ebay.
how long did it take them to get back to you?
How well does the joystick work with 360 motions, in comarison to other sticks?
Get then from http://www.tntamusement.com/, costs 17.99 at groovygamegear.com they are 33.95 
To find them on tntamusenent, click “TNT’s Marketworks Store” and then “everything else”
I think they are very professional and fast to respond on mails.
I think they only got 38mm version
Edit: to mount them in metalpanel you don’t have to take of the handle. Make a hole as large as the ridge (don’t remember the dimensions but it’s bigger than balltop. Guess this will only look good if you mount it so the ridge is at the same height as the top (hard for me to explain this in english but you should got an ide) .
where do you get a new resin core? is it hard to get. and yes I know the obvious way of mounting this is cutting a hole the size of the head of the joystick and stick it through, but I thought you can remove the shaft like happ. I’ll give that clip thing a try. I didn’t know it can be remove because I didn’t want to force it.
You can order ferrite rings through places like magnetsales.com and other magnet vendors. Most have a large assortment of dimensions. Some will even custom make them to your specs. However, I have no idea what grade ferrite it is made of.
I was thoroughly disappointed when I found I couldn’t play fighters worth a darn with these sticks. I really just don’t get along with circular gates. Shmupping, on the other hand, was a pleasure!
Ya know, I hear ya, initially I was really big on the sticks cause they register motions so nicely and have a nice short throw, but eventually I started longing for a square gate again. There’s just something about square gates, for me at least. Wish these had them, cause I love the lack of microswitches and adjustability. I may have to mess around and take out the pcb and see if I can’t rig it into in a seimitsu stick to have an indctive seimitsu stick. We’ll see.
On a side note, I have a couple extra, new 38mm suzos if people can’t find them elsewhere, I think I might just keep 2 or 3 or them.
And one quick tip for the suzos, different voltages cause the suzo to react differetly, like 4.3 to say 5.2 volts. I initially rigged the stick up with a 4aa battery pack (to get about 5 volts) and as the batteries lost their charge and the voltage drooped a bit, the suzo stick responded a bit differently, like increased distance to engagement, so you have to fiddle with the pots again to get a feel you like. So, if you get 5v from usb or whatever, you’ll be fine, but the battery pack is a no go if you just want to leave our settings alone once you set them up.
Basically, don’t use a voltage source that varies much. Any non-battery source should do.
I’ll be using the stick on my arcade cab. will i need batteries?
Hell no ! Your arcade cab PSU should already carry the +5V voltage :rolleyes:
Check with a meter
thanks kowal, i’m just wondering where the 4 earth wires go. so i’m assuming it only needs 1 in the gnd pin?
only one
Sexperienced your PM box is full
JAMMA get +5V
http://cps2shock.retrogames.com/techinfo.html
on my stick I use IPAC have pin +5V
http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html
its empty now, please elaborate on getting +5V from the jamma. i suck when it comes to technical stuff like this.
you have this to check alone. it every joint should have exit on + 5 and 12V.
CPS2
JAMMA connector
SOLDER SIDE # # PART SIDE
GND A 01 GND
GND B 02 GND
+5V C 03 +5V
+5V D 04 +5V
NC E 05 NC
+12V F 06 +12V
H 07
NC J 08 Coin Counter 1
Coin Lockout K 09 Coin Lockout
Loudspeaker (-) L 10 Loudspeaker (+)
NC M 11 NC
Video Analog Green N 12 Video Analog Red
Video Composite Sync P 13 Video Analog Blue
Service Switch R 14 Video Ground
NC S 15 Test
Coin B T 16 Coin A
Player 2 Start U 17 Player 1 Start
Player 2 Up V 18 Player 1 Up
Player 2 Down W 19 Player 1 Down
Player 2 Left X 20 Player 1 Left
Player 2 Right Y 21 Player 1 Right
Player 2 Button 1 Z 22 Player 1 Button 1
Player 2 Button 2 a 23 Player 1 Button 2
Player 2 Button 3 b 24 Player 1 Button 3
Player 2 Button 4 c 25 Player 1 Button 4
NC d 26 NC
GND e 27 GND
GND f 28 GND
ok, thanks.
How is this joystick better than a perfect 360? you can’t repair those inductors, if damaged! At least with a 360, components are still soldered on. Since 2004, Happ has been producing perfect 360’s with a cheaper quality of hard plastic on purpose so operators/consumers would have to replace them because of usage/durability of the pivot bushing and hub assembly. The 360’s that Wico use to produce lasted 4x longer and had better photosensors. Only the original Happ Perfect 360 (square, discontinued) board are the best. You could mount them on various joysticks and whenever the plastic parts wore out you could just interchange them with another joystick. I’ve had some of these Happ Perfect 360’s (square) ones for about 6+ years now and they’re still working, if ever broken, anyone could easily repair them.