i havent purchase it yet, but im still looking for it ;_;
well, here’s a phoenixed HSF2 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CPS2-green-street-fighter-anniversary-hyper-2-phoenixed-board-A-B-Rare-/260882478912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3cbdceb740#ht_500wt_1202
but I heard phoenix’s have slowdowns sometimes in gameplay.(another reason why i didn’t want the 18in1 over the original, they’re all phoenix’s) Like i’ll phoenix if i forget to change the battery, I won’t mind having access to all regions, and hey, maybe the slowdowns are only on specific boards…
If I didn’t* just* buy my SSF2x board I’d buy this too, my SSF2x would be for “serious” play, and the HSF2 to mess around with the regions and old characters and such…
That AE on eBay is a bootleg. One give away is the sticker. It’s not the real AE sticker. Just saying this so someone who’s gonna fork over the cash to buy this is gonna spend a lot for a boot. It should play fine though. The EPROMs are just not directly from Capcom. CPS-2 is old technology so it’s not difficult today to manipulate. The AE uses real CPS-2 parts. They just took one CPS-2 green board and converted it to AE. It’s kinda the same way you Phoenix games except all the EPROMs are unoffical while in Phoenixed boards you still use official Capcom EPROMs.
From my experience Phoenixes play fine. The only problem is if you Phoenix a USA Alpha 2 you can’t pick Evil Ryu. I think it’s the 18 in 1’s that have the slowdown. They’re cramming 18 CPS-2 games in one board. Of course somethings gonna give.
That’s actually why I opted to buy official SSF2X, if you read earlier on the board I was wondering how to tell if a board is a boot, and apparently the only boots for it is the 18in1 (kinda hard to believe but still…) something about ssf2x needing another board or something like that…
just for future reference, what does the official HSF2 sticker look like? … and again, if they are using an official-looking sticker, how would I tell if it’s a boot?
The 18 in 1 bootlegs are actually a CPS-2 A & B board zip tied together without the shells. The way it works I think that both the CPS-2 A & B board are specially rigged for each other so that they can play 18 games in 1. It sort of like an emulator but uses real CPS-2 parts.
The official Anniversary Edition sticker is the traditional blue ink with a white background. And the picture is just like the cover of the Anniversary Edition of the console PS2/Xbox game. Capcom made the arcade Anny only for Japan and in limited numbers. It should only be a green B board or that even more rare Black board where the A & B board are stuck together. The bootleg on eBay has the Super Street Fighter 2: New Challengers sticker. A clever AE bootleg would be the green shell with a copy of the official AE sticker. Inside a real board all the chips would be labeled Capcom stamped in with the official numbers. If all the chips inside are blank with no labels that it’s a boot.
But IMO performancewise AE boots are well made. The ones I come across have no issues. A lot of boots are circulating because Capcom didn’t make a lot.
I had a quick question about using the FGW converters for a CPS2 supergun build (I figured posting here is slightly more relevant than the FGW thread). I’m using DB-15 ends for the converter and the controller out from the JAMMA + kick harness and currently deciding on my pinout. I’m putting PSX female to DB-15 female on the converter, and I’m planning to throw the JAMMA wiring into 2 male DB-15 solder cups for that end. I’m looking at the JAMMA harness pinout right now and I had some questions.
- I assume I need +5v and GND in the pinout and I see 4 +5V and 8 GND lines on the harness pinout. I’m guessing I can just grab one of each of those for the controller ports? I actually just looked at the harness itself a little closer and it looks like all 4 +5V pins are together in the same, single wire going out, but I haven’t unfolded the entire loom to get a look and see if it splits anywhere. Assuming it doesn’t what do I do about getting that line to the controller ports?
- I see 4 buttons for each player, but I know I’m supposed to use the 3 kicks from the kick harness. Do I just use buttons 1, 2, and 3 from the JAMMA harness for LP, MP, and HP respectively?
These are probably really simple questions (and my assumptions about the +5V may be completely wrong as I’m new to this and I haven’t fully unrolled the loom to look at it yet) but I just want to be sure before I finish soldering the converters tomorrow. I’ll probably get to soldering the JAMMA side of the controller ports on Tuesday and this should be about wrapped up by then. I’m definitely excited, it’s taken a while as I’ve had to mod 2 sticks already for PSX support.
I got 2 HORI Real Arcade Pro 3s wired up with Jamma and Sanwa buttons, thank you based CPS2 gods!
The Supergun itself was made by Fire-Bug, a UK guy 
Consider me jealous I figured out the questions I had asked earlier in here but now it seems like my MC Cthulhu and Kitty sticks aren’t playing nicely with the FGW converters. It could still be a wiring issue but I’m not sure. The debugging process has been slow going. It’s great seeing it actually working though for now it’s only usable with a ps2 pad.
Not true. There are official American blue boards and Orange boards that have cropped up from the mexican seller that sells cps2 boards on Ebay. One guy on neo-geo.com purchased one and opened it up to see if it is official and found a battery and the board wasn’t filled to the brim with eproms like the boots are.
Well good for him for finding out. He took the risk of spending a lot of money and getting it opened.
I’m still a little skeptical though. How did the sticker look like? That guy also sells cover stickers and EPROM stickers. I don’t know if they’re copied or official. For CPS-2 games you can always change stickers and swap shells. Capcom in house even puts stickers on one game on top of stickers on another game. You can also have boots that are battery powered or has a battery. My boot had a battery on it and it was purely cosmedic. I took it out and it was fine. But he might be legit. The question is if he’s the only guy in the world that has Anny in an orange board.
The best way to find out is to do “The Phoenix Test”. Hold the test button before you turn the game on and keep holding it. If the region changing menu is on that means it’s a Phoenix. If it fires up normally then it’s real. Personally I wouldn’t worry either way since both versions run fine. CPS-2 is old technology and the guys who Phoenixed it perfected it.
Aiight, So I just got the supergun, and the game is in the post office in the city, so I should get that by tomorrow too… Within the next few weeks I’ll post pictures and videos of the setup. Thanks for all the help in getting me the information I needed to finish this setup!
Hi guys,
Just a quick update if you want to get a supergun but don’t want to build your own or you suck at this like I do, try to pm “DeepThoughts”, the guy who built the supergun in PS1 case for marsgatti & john rambo.
Howard and John show off and explain their supergun setup created by “DeepThoughts” Scott Roths.
Or if you have the patience, you can wait for the mass production of UD-CPS2 by undamned
Ugh, the “credit counter” (odometer like object) Fell INTO the casing, I don’t even know how that happened, I’m trying to shake it back out but it’s damn near impossible… I only have regular hex keys, not security keys. the hole seems JUST small enough so nothing fits in except toothpicks and cotton swabs… Pens and pencils are JUST too big.
Looks like I have to buy a security hex set now. Was hoping I wouldn’t need to open this thing until the battery change. (seller changed the battery for me before shipping)
as long as u can play vs real ppl is good, playing vs CPU no fun lol
Anyone who intends to run CPS2 stuff for any length of time should own the proper bits They aren’t expensive, either. I bought a screwdriver/security bit combo set for like $12 shipped back in the day, and that included the Nintendo security bits!
-ud
I managed to get the coin counter back in the slot (loosely) tight enough so that I don’t have to worry about it shorting any part of the pcb… So it’ll do for now, but yeah. I was planning on buying the pack with the security hex and battery when it comes to it… gotta go take some pictures of my new board now…
Yeah!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/Unessential-Samurai/SAM_0161.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/Unessential-Samurai/SAM_0163.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/Unessential-Samurai/SAM_0162-1.jpg
The Red tiny part is the supergun from jojoultimate, (not visible in the first photo) and There’s a PC power supply powering it I don’t have the controllers yet. Gonna bring my sticks in to get modded to work with it on the 16th (PSX chord with FGwidget converter). Anybody know what makes the coin counter count up on the board? pressing the credit button on my supergun doesn’t do it.
It should count up automatically whenever the credit switch is hit. The counter mech might be unplugged from the B-board. You will have to open it and check. Otherwise, the counter may be broken, no big deal as a lot of them don’t even have it installed anyway.
Anyone know how to make a Supergun?