Supergun + arcade CPS2 Super Street Fighter II Turbo

If any of you come across any supergun / CPS2 ST / cabinet deals from other websites / craigslist / ebay, please post in this thread since people interested in ST would also be interested in that.

So this post is opened to help folks trying to get a REAL st setup.

If you have CPS2 board / supergun / cab that you want to sell, post here!

UPDATE - shopping list

Where to get ST boards

If you don’t mind paying a little more (for shipping and dollar/yen exchange rate), you can buy directly from coinop

[Super Street Fighter 2X: Grand Master Challenge kit - Capcom CPS II - PCBs & Kits - Arcade Video Game Coinop Sales - Coinopexpress](‘ kit_1363.html’)

Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo - Capcom CPS II - PCBs & Kits - Arcade Video Game Coinop Sales - Coinopexpress

If you have time to wait for deals, someone would sell them on ebay / craigslist / forum occasionally.

Be sure to get a replacement battery and change it after you get your board. (just desolder the old battery and solder in a new one)

Arcade PCB Mods & Parts - CPS 2 - 3 Parts & Service - CPS-2 Battery Replacement Kit - JAMMABOARDS.COM - JAMMA Coin-Op Arcade Game Parts - CPS-2 Battery Replacement Kit

Where to get supergun

This guy sells a prebuilt supergun with composite and s-video output for $150 bucks. You just need to buy a kick harness (see below) separately and you?re all set.

eBay My World - jojoultimate

If you are looking for s-video and composite output only, I think it?s well worth it. The biggest headache if you try to build your own is to find a container to house everything nicely. I doubt anyone can do a better job than that guy.

Alternatively, you can buy a mas supernova supergun from

eBay My World - worldamusementco

for $370. It comes with two happ sticks. But 80% people now prefer Japanese sticks so unless you like the mas sticks, I?d skip that for that kind of money.

Now if you want VGA output to play it on your LCD, you need to build your own. The jojoultimate guy can also build it for you but for custom supergun he charged $400.

Here?s the shopping list. You need a full harness and a kick harness.

Wire & Harnesses - Full Cabinet Harnesses - JAMMA Full Cabinet Wiring Harness Loom - JAMMABOARDS.COM - JAMMA Coin-Op Arcade Game Parts - JAMMA Full Cabinet Wiring Harness Loom


A power supply (you can use a PC power supply if you want. This one is not expensive and it?s rather compact)

Electrical Items - 15A Arcade Switching Power Supply - 110W - JAMMABOARDS.COM - JAMMA Coin-Op Arcade Game Parts - 15A Arcade Switching Power Supply - 110W

Then you need a video encoder. Either VGA output

Video Converters - CGA/EGA/YUV to VGA Arcade HD-Converter PCB (GBS-8220) - JAMMABOARDS.COM - JAMMA Coin-Op Arcade Game Parts - CGA/EGA/YUV to VGA Arcade Converter PCB (GBS-8220)

or s-video / composite

Video Converters - RGB to NTSC/PAL TV Converter PCB - JAMMABOARDS.COM - JAMMA Coin-Op Arcade Game Parts - CV-04 RGB to NTSC/PAL TV Converter PCB

note that the composite output is not good enough (both jammaboard one and the jrok) without sync cleaner
So unless your TV support s-video, get sync cleaner from ($15)

Another solution is Neo-Bitz v2 - The Online Neo Homebrew Resource

it?s not expensive but you need to assemble it yourself, and you can?t buy it from which is convenient for one stop shop.

And then there is also RGB to TV convertor - RGB to NTSC & PAL video encoder you can buy from Golden Tee Arcade Parts Happ Controls Suzo-Happ Jrok encoders for around $90 shipped from

For controller support, you can either hardwire your sticks and buttons which are inconvenient. Or you can get a PSX-> jamma converters

Laugh sells an assembled one with button mapping support (useful for pad players) for $50

PSX to JAMMA converter

toodles sells an unassembled FGWidget Converter kit for $15

toodles said he?ll add button mapping support in the future. you?ll need to get a psx extension cable (toodles sells it for $5).

To connect the converters with the harness, you need a DB15 male soldering cup (I found them at fry?s for $1 a piece).

Or you can use stevetren?s suggestion

DB15 Slim Breakout Board with Screw Terminals - Winford Engineering

It doesn?t require any soldering but it?s more expensive.

Once you have the harness, power supply, video encoder and psx converter / DB15 connector, it?s just a matter of connecting the dots together.

The harness comes with instructions. You can also view the pinout here


CPS-2 - XRGB wiki

note that the harness is just a messy pile of wires. You don?t need half of them for your supergun. What I did to reduce the clutter is to cut all the wires that I don?t use (button 4,5,6 on the main harness, speaker +, coin counter)

The hard part is to find something nice to house everything together.

For now I?m just using a usps priority shipping box and some tie wraps

DIY Guide


(To be continue? or if you have any specific questions, please ask)

just a quick note to say that the japanese boards are more common and usually a bit cheaper than the international version (although green boards lack freeplay), so importing a japanese board may be cheaper/easier to aquire

the two most prominent pcb retailers in asia (that sell to dirty foreigners) would be fujitacommunications and - both accept paypal

you can get accurate exchange rates from

i’d advise people to do a bit of homework about jamma and the cps2 system before splashing the cash though, it’s not rocket science but just be aware that you’ll need to know about kick harnesses, bootlegs, suicide batteries, A+B board, etc

happy hunting :smile:

Where’s the best place to buy a supergun?

if you want something solely for ST, might wanna get a cheap Mak supergun off ebay. a supergun essentially is just a jamma connector, video encoder, sound amp, power supply, and controller ports. if you’re technically inclined you could even purchase the parts separately and build one yourself!

if you’re ballin’, go for a sigma raijin or one from their AV series, a pana twin, or a sega boardmaster

only trouble is i keep forgetting your country doesn’t use RGB scart for some bizarre reason. composite and s-video is perfectly fine, but the picture wont be as nice as on an arcade monitor (or RGB on a compatible CRT)

only USA arcade dealer i’m aware of is arcadeshock, they might be able to hook you up

also forgot to say are quite good. i think they buy their stuff from g-front/mak in akhibara and sell it on with a mark-up, which is why their catalogue is quite big

Here’s a run down on everything you would need to run CPS2 ST:

1. Cab or supergun: Any decent JP cab (e.g. Astro City, Egret II, Blast City) will have everything you need but is hard to transport. Plus, you need 2 cabs to support head-to-head. A supergun can come one of 2 ways: They’re may be integrated with dual controls (e.g. Sigma Raijin, Pana Twin, Sega Boardmaster), which is cheaper and more stable but a bit awkward because the 2 players have to sit so close together and can watch opponents’ hands in peripheral vision. Or they can be a single control box and rely on you to supply the controls (e.g. Sigma AV7000, Mas Super Nova, most custom-built superguns). Any cab or supergun will play ST just fine although cabs will naturally feel the best, Sigma’s AV series is known for its portability and quality amongst boxes, while the higher end integrated superguns are also well-constructed.

If you’re thinking of buying a candy cab (the normal stand-up styles seen in Japan), get in touch with folks on the marketplace. Depending on if you find a local cab or have to fish in Japan, as well as the cab itself and its condition, you’re looking at $500-1500 total to have it fully functioning.

If you want a US Dynamo cab (the US cabs you played on as a kid), you can probably get one fully functioning for $300-700 total from eBay.

If you’re thinking of buying a new Mas Super Nova, I think they only operate business in the Tech Talk section of SRK now although I’m not sure if they still sell them (they used to sell the Super Nova plus 2 sticks for $300).

If you’re thinking of buying a new Sigma supergun, a reliable guy I know called Gaijin Punch is offering to pick them up (for reference, expect the base prices to hover around $410 for a Raijin and $425 for an AV7000 and 1 stick): gamengai

2. Controls: On a cab, the sticks and buttons should be built-in. If you’re on a JP cab and don’t have a 6-button layout, you can buy 6-button control panels with either Sanwa or Seimitsu parts for your particular cabinet type. On a single box supergun, you have to work around the controller ports that are given. Super Novas have traditionally used a DB-25 controller port designed for their own Super Pro Sticks (using all-Happ parts). Sigma’s AV5000 and AV6000 use a DB-15 controller port designed for their own 8000TB Super Pro-Sticks (using all-Seimitsu parts, no relation to Mas’s). Sigma’s AV7000 uses an odd 13-pin DIN connector obviously designed for their own 9000TB Super Pro-Sticks (almost identical to Sigma’s earlier efforts).

Now, as I mentioned, superguns with integrated controls are even shorter than your normal JP cab so there’s very little room to play on (esp. if a big player is right next to you). A supergun in box form is nice to have but getting sticks will be expensive and not everyone will like the options. For the vast majority, a Happ stick won’t satisfy in this day and age so the Mas’s default controls are out. Sigma’s Super Pro-Stick uses Seimitsu snap-in buttons, which if you haven’t ever played on them before, means that they’re completely flat, with turbo switches jutting out next to the buttons, and feel pretty strange (on a side note, they’re also ridiculously dangerous to have around with the casing in full metal and the edges razor sharp). Plus, they cost about $150 each.

So if the built-in control options don’t work, then the next step is to build your own. Wiring an existing stick is fairly easy modding work because each switch on a stick connects 1-to-1 with a pin on the connector. As long as you have a pinout, it should be straightforward. But still, I can understand that this is a hassle to make custom controllers that players may still not feel comfortable with. Some custom superguns, like the one krost has, bypass this issue entirely by directly offering PS ports instead.

So the best option we currently have are DB15-to-PS converters from laugh. These accept most PS1/2 controllers and even allow you to configure the buttons. These have been used at MWC, Evo, SBO quals, and SB without issue (besides a couple of custom sticks not working). I don’t feel lag on them and he’s claimed that there’s no lag either. The only difficult part is that with these converters, you must match the pinout on your supergun to the DB-15 pinout of the converter. I believe some have wired together adapters. For me, the pinout of the converter perfectly mirrors the pinout of my Sigma AV6000 so I just just a DB-15 M-F cable with one end connected to the supergun and the other end connected to the converter. You’ll need 2 converters for both players to use these converters and can purchase them at eTokki for $50 each: PSX to JAMMA converter

3. CPS2 motherboard: This is referred to as the A board and is what lies underneath the game board itself. You can either get the blue (US or Europe) or green (Japan) variations since they’re interchangeable with blue and green game boards. This can be found for $20-40. And yes, when you hear it, the fan really is that loud.

4. ST game board: This is referred to as the B board and is what goes on top of the A board like a cover. Combined, you’re ready to hook it up and play some ST. You can either get the blue (US or Europe) or green (Japan) variations since they’re interchangeable with blue and green motherboards. The JP version is more common and can often be found for $100-140 nowadays. The US version is rarer and can be found for $140-180.

There are also grey Asian boards that are even cheaper but you’ll need a grey motherboard for that as well and that version isn’t documented (such as the world version having o.Zangief’s 360-HK glitch). I’d suggest searching the avenues jpj mentioned ([?A?[?P?[?h?Q???? ?g?b?v?X is another place to try). If they don’t have the board, you may want to consider Coinopexpress, although the prices are somewhat higher. If you want a phoenixed PCB, I’d suggest asking around

The main thing to note here is that all CPS2 games have suicide batteries. You can either research and follow instructions to replace the batteries every few years or you can choose to phoenix the game or, better yet, just buy a phoenixed version. The only difference is that the Capcom logo changes slightly; there are no in-game differences. The advantage of phoenixing is that not will you not have to worry about the battery, but you can also switch regions to US or Japan (and others) at your leisure.

5. Jamma harness: Now that you have the A and B boards connected, you need to connect this system with the rest of your hardware. Most arcade games support a common connector format called Jamma. The Jamma harness plus into your game PCB on one end and out to various locations on the cab, or to another connector on the supergun end. On both a cab and supergun, this will already be set up so you normally just have to be concerned about the controls. Jamma only supports 3 buttons (outside of Start) through the harness.

CPS2 games use the CPS2 kick harness to support the extra 3 buttons with an extra connector on the A board. You’ll have to connect the wires coming out of the kick harness to either your buttons on the cab or the supergun’s fingerboard. You can easily find a CPS2 kick harness (not to be confused with a CPS1 kick harness or any other kick harness) on eBay for at most $10. A supergun will come with a Jamma harness that’s matched up to its own fingerboard so if you don’t want to solder, make sure to request that a CPS2 kick harness be added to it (having a Test button and esp. a Service button on the harness itself would be wise too).

6. A/V connections: If you want ST to sound great on a cab, you need a stereo amp in your cab (most candy cabs are dual mono). If you want it to sound excellent on a cab, you’ll get a Q-Sound amp (which really has nothing to do with Q-Sound, which is just the algorithm used whenever you choose to output the sound in stereo). Note that all the cabs I paid attention to in Japan stuck with dual mono (very noticeable when Guile performs a Sonic Boom). For superguns, Jamma connections normally don’t support stereo (and CPS2 isn’t an exception) so if you want stereo, you’ll have to hook up a stereo cable directly from the A board to an amp.

If you want ST to look as pretty as possible, you need a cab for pure RGB goodness. On a supergun, you’ll want video output in order from best to worst depending on what the supergun and your monitor supports: RGB->component->S-Video->composite. If you have a TV that directly supports the signal, that’s all the better. If you’re stuck with a computer monitor and have to use an XRGB conversion to VGA, well, that’s still better than going one step down the ladder.

Sigmas support RGB, S-Video, and composite so I normally have my supergun plugged in to an XRGB2 through RGB21 and have the picture displayed on a computer monitor with audio going straight from the CPS2 A board to stereo speakers. It’s not the ideal but it’s a fair compromise between quality and space/portability.

So overall, here’s the full picture of how my supergun setup works:

[CPS2 ST game] attached on top of [CPS2 motherboard]
[CPS2 motherboard] connected to [supergun] via a [Jamma-fingerboard harness with attached CPS2 kick harness]

[supergun] connected to an [XRGB] via an [RGB cable]
[XRGB] connected to a [monitor] via a [VGA cable]

[CPS2 motherboard] connected to [speakers] via a [stereo-1/8" connector cable]

[PS stick 1] connected to [supergun] via [laugh converter and DB15 cable]
[PS stick 2] connected to [supergun] via [laugh converter and DB15 cable]

If I’m bringing my setup to an outside venue, I’d forgo the XRGB part and just bring:

  1. supergun (with attached power cord)
  2. Jamma-fingerboard harness with attached CPS2 kick harness
  3. S-Video cable with sound cable -or- RCA cable (depending on what sort of monitor would be available)
  4. 2 laugh converters
  5. 2 DB-15 cables
  6. my PS2 stick (with hopefully someone else bringing another stick)
  7. CPS2 A+B boards

If you leave all the small stuff attached to the supergun, that’s just a supergun, stick, and CPS2 case to carry.

Oh, ok.

It seems like there’s no way to connect modern TE (either Xbox or PS3) sticks?

Wow Ganelon, great post. I’m very jealous of your sigma AV7000

We should have this discussion earlier so we can ask you/rambo/damdai to help us get some sigma superguns from the electronics stores :slight_smile:

Also, this guy is selling supernova supergun on ebay

Anyone can comment on how good it is? (for ST at least)
Will laugh’s psx convert work with this?

Geo, I have come across some tutorials before. For me, soldering the parts are not the problem but sourcing the parts from different vendors, building a custom case (pain in the a**) with integrated power source seems to be rather difficult…

Anyway, here’re some links I found



GameFAQs: Arcade Games (ARC) Capcom CPS2 FAQ by CMullins


@geo, you can mod your TE stick with a toodles MC Cthulhu board to enable Xbox360/ps3/ps2/wii support

i got an AV7000, biran’s on the AV6000 - what a gypsy!

regarding the cabs, don’t go in assuming it’ll have everything you need off the bat - buying cabs second-hand is like buying a car second-hand, it can have lots of underlying faults that you wont spot unless you know what you’re looking for

main thing about building one will be a good PSU as arcade games can be very picky about voltages and you don’t wanna fry your pcbs. this is usually the weak link in “custom”/homebrew projects

there’s a guy on our UK site who makes consolised A boards with built-in ps2 ports, that’s another nice option cos then you can just buy whatever B boards you want

about phoenixing, you can only phoenix a board once it’s already dead. phoenixed ones can be a little more money and i don’t really think it’s worth it as a battery will be about $5 or whatever, and if it does die, the process for getting it phoenixed is actually just sending some of the chips to a guy called razoola (not the whole board), and he re-programs them for you unencrytped. i don’t have a problem with phoenixing from a collector standpoint, but many boards listed as phoenixed are actually boots, so you need to know how to spot a fake from the real deal in that case

the fan is loud, and high pitched to boot (lol), but what i did was replace them with pabst fans of the same size which are virtually silent. the airflow is maybe 2/3 to 3/4 as good as the stock fan, but it’s all good, and you should clean your boards every so often anyways. if it’s just for home use you can remove the casings from the A+B boards and disable the fan altogether (as it’s only needed cos the pcbs are housed inside that plastic shell). but don’t disable the fan if you’re keeping it inside the casing cos those things get hot, not good

there’s a nice guide on cps2shock about swapping the suicide batteries. once done it’ll last for about 5 years, but it only loses charged when not powered on. i’ve heard of boards running on their original battery for 10+ years (probably cos they’ve been in heavy use in an arcade somewhere). it’s very easy, just be careful cos if your soldering iron makes contact with the battery you may need a skin graft, lol

someone should post a pic of mainman’s cps2 collection, lol

edit: yeah bwoiii

papasi: Yeah, I saw an AV5000 for sale ($200 IIRC) while I was in Japan. It’s not like any of us had space left to carry anything though. Mak Japan still sells brand new AV7000s with 1 stick and plain Jamma harness for $330 (unfortunately, they don’t ship abroad): ?}?b?N?W???p??

Mak is also one of the places that will happily custom-build a harness for you for some extra money depending on your needs so feel free to add 5-button Atomiswave, a CPS1 kick harness, CPS2 kick harness, and the works to play all sorts of games (although there may be issues with a few other games). And for everybody wondering after clicking that link, they were out of mahjong controllers when I was there (yeah, I was pretty disappointed). And also for anyone wondering, that Boardmaster is as big, heavy, and impressive as it seems, but still not large enough to accommodate American diets. Plus, since AFAIK none of the integrated units have any controller ports, they would be much bigger hassles getting to work with laugh’s converters.

If you’re interested in a Sigma AV (which are normally considered the premiere superguns), maybe you can convince Gaijin Punch or a JP proxy buyer (I know Celga is reliable and does accept shop orders) to grab you one but note that shipping will be really expensive because the all-metal supergun and all-metal sticks are heavy.

As for the Super Nova, I’ve never had the opportunity to play ST on it. It’s generally known for being a lesser quality supergun with fewer adjustment options but I’ve seen a friend’s Super Nova run Shadow Over Mystara just fine so there shouldn’t be any issues. The main thing to keep in mind though that the Super Nova box is as large as a large stick whereas the Sigma AV may be 1/3 the size. But maybe the lower price outweighs minor stuff like that.

laugh’s converters are supposed to work equally as well on a Super Nova as on an AV7000. In either case, you have to make an adapter between the superguns’ controller ports and the converter’s DB-15 port, a common DB-25 for the Mas and the little used 13-pin DIN for the AV7000. The only situation where you don’t need adapters is with the AV5000 and AV6000 where they already have DB-15 controller ports that appear to be what laugh’s converters were mapped on so you can just grab 2 DB-15 M-F cables, connect 2 converters in, and play right off the bat.

Yeah, since US players are so picky with the choice of controller, I don’t think the boardmaster will be a good choice for building a local scene.

Does the built-in power supply support both 110/220?
Can I pick up a cps2 kick harness for AV7000 easily in the US?

I’m very interested in the brand new AV7000. Do I need to buy their custom stick also like a fixed bundle?

If not, then it is cheaper and also one less thing to ship. I assume once you have laugh’s converter you can use any psx controller with AV7000.

BTW they have this item USB??? ?4,000(?4,200:??) discontinued.
Is that a USB to their custom input converter? If yes then it’s even better than laugh’s converter.

I’m seriously interested in getting one but I think the chance of having this shipped to my place before NCR is kinda slim (+ laugh’s converter + buy another TE and mod it with ps2 support) .

Plus I still have to figure out how to use those proxy to buy it for me.

Damn I wish I can do something for ST in the coming NCR.

[Edit: papercut: norcal bayarea, 5-7 hours from LA]

where do you live pap? how far from los angeles?

Well, as long as you’re trying to expand the scene, I’m always happy to help. Anyway, I agree that having no stick would be ideal. But now that I read Mak’s page again, it looks like that $330 is for the unit itself. I know they have a special deal for buying them together but I guess that’s your answer for just the unit. It’s sort of funny because if the yen hadn’t appreciated so much against the dollar, an AV7000 may only be around $280.

Once you have an AV7000 and build adapters to map the 13-pin DIN into DB-15 according to Sigma and laugh’s pinouts, then you can use the converter. Honestly, if someone knows where a used AV5000 or AV6000 is still sold, that would be my recommendation since you won’t need converters. You’ll still need extending cables though (at most $10 a pop) since laugh’s converter can’t attach directly to the AV6000’s controller port because it’s not deep enough. But hey, if you’re comfortable soldering an adapter wires together, it should be fine either way.

And don’t forget about the CPS2 boards themselves. Rambo got his JP copy of ST from Mak but if you add proxy fees (since Mak only ships domestically), that option is unlikely to produce a good deal. But you often see them for sale. Maybe I’ll start alerting folks if I see them.

ST is a different beast when it comes to fakes. It’s extremely difficult to boot ST since it’s one of the very very few games that uses a sub-board that has ROMs, which store the graphics and sound.

AE on the other hand is an extremely bootlegged board since the only thing you have to use as a board would be an Xmen vs Street Fighter board with every single socket filled with the roms. Some people claim that there are official American and Hispanic AE’s but I found that hard to believe lol.

there are two hardware iterations for AE, i have both (cos i’m dumb) and the all-in-one black board has the data on simms - a bit like progear or the cps3 software - which is very difficult to bootleg (but still possible). i’ve seen a lot of grey asian ST boots lately (not trying to hate on the chinese or anything). the blue AE is official, it was dumped in mame and you can read more details on arcadeotaku

i think AE bootlegs crop up the most (along with progear) purely because it’s an expensive title. but ST has been steadily creeping up in price lately :looney:

enjoyed the vids of you setting up your astros by the way :tup:

So, who outbid me and won the ebay US ST board auction today ? :slight_smile:

I have a few questions about suicide batteries, Is there a way to tell when the batteries are going to die? or should you just always replace them right after puchase because you don’t know?

How much more expensive are pheonixed boards usually? and any guide to telling which are boots? or are they usually fairly badly made and obvious once you see the physical board?

I’m not sure if there is a way to measure the battery life.

Yeah you usually want to replace the battery after you purchase it, you don’t want to risk it even the seller say he had it replaced last year.

Also, if the board is kept powered on all the time, the battery can last for a lot longer. ST boards inside arcade machine that operate 7 days a week are known to work for up to 10+ years without battery change.

I also read a tip somewhere that you should store your board upside down if you don’t use it often, since if the battery leaks, the fluid would not damage the board.

There is a keystone battery holder mod to make the battery replacement very easy, but I have heard bad things about the reliability of this method so I wouldn’t recommend it.

Phoenix costs $40 euro if you are going to the man himself (
, the hacker who made it available in the first place).

If you have access to a programmer (cheap) and eraser (expensive, $150), you can do it yourself since JP version of the phoenix roms are leaked on the internet. There are also some folks that offer this service besides raz (basically ripping him off), so it’s all up to how comfortable you are with these approaches.

There isn’t much price difference for a original or phoenixed board (maybe $10-$20), since some collectors like to keep them original and some hobbyists like the convenience of phoenixed board.

There are no boots for ST/X from what I heard, since the board has some dedicated chips that are different than other cps2 games.

There are a lot of bootlegs for SFII AE version and Progear though.

If you just read what he (Razoola) and others from CPS-2 Shock have on their website, is not it enough to do it on your own, if you have electronics knowledge and the balls for it?

I’d love having outbiden you, but I’m kinda screwed recently and spending money on a game might give me trouble. I will have my cab in time…

No balls required. Just a programmer, eraser, and downloaded copies of the rom set.
If you screwed up and can’t fix it, just pony up $40 euro and send your messed up chips to the guy.

I thought you can’t find anyone else in brazil to play offline with :slight_smile: jk

Make this work, I’ll drive down to SD to play. I’ll bring the babyzone crew with me.