papasi: i think he meant the balls to switch the battery
edit: a cps2 consolized system on ebay right now
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CONSOLIZED-CAPCOM-CPS2-ARCADE-JAMMA-CHANGER-SYSTEM-/160497090182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255e5f3e86
I meant both reviving the board and switching batteries. I do not blame people for it, it is natural that one will be worried or insecure about it. I was just not sure doing it yourself would somehow hurt Razoola. Anyway, just saying, those guys are more important than anyone else when it comes to reviving the SF2 scene.
Edit: here is some guide on CPS-2 Shock on how to build stuff around the boards for home play. Happ parts considered. Here is a link for donations.
Edit2: alright, I have just read the instructions. For legal reasons, he says he can not provide the images. We must also notice nowhere in the CPS-2 Shock website one will find ROMs or such. By taking the images to a board, it is as getting the files which were already on the board back: he is not replicating games or the like. The process surely takes some time, and 40 euro for a talented person’s work for hours is a quite reasonable price.
Edit3: papasi, I hate two sticks! I can play play left hand vs right hand!
Cool, definitely feeling more confident about buying a supergun + board now… I’m glad you made this thread, cuz for the past year I’ve just been asking random people on GGPO and Googling. Now I just gotta finish school so I can spend more time (and money) on my favourite hobby 
updated 1st post with a shopping list and more info. will add more stuff later. if you have questions, ask
How you do an hadoken ?
That’s a little surprising since Composite and S-Video are almost the same.
S-video to composite video
I also find myself wondering whether it makes more sense to just use an edge connector instead of the wired harness.
I believe iL euro + Happ comp buttons* and full Seimitsu as options should serve everyone. US standard for whoever played at arcades and Japanese standard for whoever wants to or did play in Japan. Some Cigarbob-style setups with both these options would be awesome, IMO.
I hope to get a X board as soon as I can get a relief from real life obligations. Right now I don’t even have income, so it is not the correct time. The first piece of furniture I will want when I move to another apartment will be a SSF2X setup. So thanks a lot again for this topic, papasi, and thanks to Cigarbob for helping him with it.
*Much better than ultimate, and no real reason at all whoever used them back in the day could not adapt.
anyway to make these super guns play online? how much does it cost to build one?
Charlie_Brown_Augh.jpg
Theoretically, yes, but you’re better off with GGPO.
The one I put together for DG&V was $250 with two PS2 converters.
It’s not part of the Supergun, but the SSF2T CPS-2 A & B boards are $150-200, and you’ll also need a display.
The cheapest supergun cost breakdown
plan A
DIY
video encoder $40
harness $10
kick harness $12
2x toodles converters $15 x 2
2x psx extension cord $5 x 2
if you have your own pc power supply $0
otherwise power supply $25
cheapest shipping from jammaboard + toodles $10 + $6
steal a priority box from usps office $2 (cost of gas)
$145
if you are lazy you need to bribe a friend to put it together for you
plan B
buy a mini supergun (ps included) from ebay guy
$150 + $20 shipping
kick harness $12
DB15 solder cup $1 x 2
2x toodles converters $15 x 2
2x psx extension cord $5 x 2
cheapest shipping from jammaboard + toodles $4 + $6
$234
anyone use that VGA converter yet with a supergun? i have one laying around that i might use to make one myself. just wondering if it looks like shit, or if there is lag. seeing as how the whole world uses LCD’s and majority have VGA connections, this seems the only way to go. if i make it and feel it turns out nice, maybe i can sell them to anyone interested?
just need to figure out a way to get everyones fightsticks to work. i imagine converters would introduce lag so a simple part that people could use to mod their sticks is preferable. the db25 connecter with crimps and a splitter to adapt right into the madcatz controllers? last time i looked inside one, all the wires go to a terminal block so it would be easy to add a split to it somehow.
The VGA converter works well. (People were refusing to play the non-VGA one at NCR, but I think it had to do with stuff other than video quality.) If you’re willing to mod the stick, it’s pretty easy to make it ‘neo-geo compatible’ (~$2 in parts). I’m looking into homebrew converters, but I’m not sure how many sticks are going to be supportable.
The psx converters have no lag.
What VGA converter do you have? Is it the same one from jammaboards.com from my first post? Ganelon has a expensive XRGB2, wonder how good is that.
Could you elaborate? I just bought 2 more TE sticks yesterday as loaners for future tourney.
How to elegantly mod my 360 TE to work with neogeo? (I hope the USB would still work, so it can still be used for PC & 360)
If $2 is all I need that could save me some money for getting toodles’ mc + amp board + psx cable ($50 per stick)
The XRGB2 has excellent picture quality and is lagless. But it does go for $200. Newer models give more customization but most of those settings require a display mode that does lag a few frames (unsuable for fighters basically).
As for making a stick Neo Geo DB-15 compatible, if you used laugh’s converters, you already have the setup:
Follow the pinout to buttons. It’s that easy. Note that pins 5 & 6 aren’t used on the Neo Geo and do nothing.
I guess it’s more like $6 if you don’t have Joystick extension cables lying around.
You take something like this:
8 FT PC Joystick Extension Cable - DB15 M/F - ComputerCableStore.com
Cut off the male end, strip the wires, and solder to appropriate spots on the TE PCB. The bottom has nicely labeled spots. This is for a somewhat different project but you should get the idea:
http://www.pedantic.org/~nate/HDR/controller/images/stickpcb.jpg
(Doing things this way means fixed button mapping.)
Do you have an Asus? If so, have you tried the XRGB2 with an Asus? What settings (for both the XRGB2 and Asus)? I’m curious if there is any input delay.
-Thx
I have the XRGB2 on default with scanlines and increased brightness to counterbalance the dark scanlines. Fubarduck was the one who tested the XRGB2 to be lagless years back. I don’t have equipment to test input lag myself, which is why I still haven’t been able to test HDR yet.
Anyway, I always connect it the XRGB to a CRT but there’s no reason it shouldn’t work with the Asus’s VGA in. However, the picture will be stretched across the entire 16:9 screen, which is pretty ugly. I’m pretty sure the XRGB3 (and maybe XRGB2+) has a way to shrink the picture but not the XRGB2. If there’s anything specific you need to see on the Asus, I could probably hook it up.
i have the jammaboards one. i got a cab that had a vga monitor and gave the converter a shot. i didnt like the way it looked but had more of a motion blur issue than lag. i had to adjust quite a bit to make it look right and the heavy processing might have made the blur worse? for those in the know, i tried it on a sanwa 29E31S. i changed the chassis to make it CGA in the end.
the PSX converters have to be used with PS1/2 wired controllers though right? everyone has usb fightsticks these days. thats the thing that would need to be figured out. i think a mod would be best adding the Dsub connector split at the terminal block. this way the controllers will still work just fine on computers, xbox360/PS3, and be supergun compatible.
or an arcade perfect port needs to become a reality.
Would you mind connecting your XRGB to an Asus and then to a CRT? My bro felt that playing on a CRT was more responsive than playing on the Asus. He wants to know if you will notice anything as well. Oh, Asus set to “game mode” of course.
-Thx