The JAMMA boards put out 2 something like 2 volts peak to peak and 15 Khz Hsync. Modern hardware generally expects 0.7 volts peak to peak and 31 Khz. The voltage can be divided down, but matching the Hsync requires converters.
The ASUS monitor you listed has a Hsync spec of 30Khz or more, and the Samsung doesn’t have any Hsync spec listed. I wouldn’t expect either of them to support 15.75 Khz video natively.
Notably, even if a display will handle 15Khz it may still have display lag.
I tried the 2 monitors one after another after another (claw vs. Ken in Mexico on JP T3) and didn’t notice any issues adjusting to the link combo timing between the two with at least 20 games filled with combos apiece. Based on my rough experimentation, I would expect 0-1 frames of lag on the Asus compared to a lagless CRT. The only issue is that the Asus can’t squeeze the picture back to 4:3, seems to have a funky picture manager that can’t be turned off (if you try to run a display optimizer, you’ll find some adjustments don’t make visual sense and can’t be done without breaking other areas), and a low degree of visibility.
On the other hand, changing stages did noticeably affect the timing. On Mexico, the links have to be spaced out properly. On England though, if you spaced it out with the same timing, the hits wouldn’t form a combo. And once again, my results on how quickly link combos needed to be executed didn’t corroborate with T.Akiba’s stage speed/length but like I’ve said before, I think that measurement is mixing the 2 properties together when those are actually 2 separate properties: stage length, where some maps are longer than others, and stage speed, where some stages are faster than others.
Papasi you should come up and visit me and bring your ST board to play on my new cab! I’ve got an Alpha 3 board now too as the guy I bought the cab from was selling it for a decent price. Its kinda far though, like 3hrs drive from the Bay Area. I hope I can pick up my own ST board soon but its not as fun playing by yourself is it?
i read somewhere on this thread that fan noise on a cps2 super gun could be bothersome. just letting everyone know that i had an “A” board with a fan that seized up. so i went to pc warehouse and got the equivalent replacement. it is pretty much the same size, and drops right in. same voltage(12v) and amp draw(dont remember, it says right on the fan). it is almost dead silent, with a very minor hum like a PC would make. nothing like the original fan and it only cost 8 bucks. it basically is an even swap but you have to make a splice on the 2 wires going from the new fan to the old fans wires which connect to the pcb so you can utilize the original connector.
Yeah, the noise is very bothersome when playing by yourself or in a relatively quiet place. But at any tourney, it’s just a small buzz if audible at all.
Although some people suggest no need for the CPS2 fan, I wouldn’t recommend anyone disconnect the fan because the boards (esp. the bottom of the A board) will get fairly hot if you leave the game on for a few hours, even in the complete open.
What’s a good replacement fan for the Nidec Beta SL D06R-12TH? I’m sure we can get more efficient and quieter fans nowadays but is it as simple as making sure the fan is 60x60x15 mm in size with a 2-pin header?
Traditionally, the amount of cooling that happens is overkill. The new fan on the link page is about half as powerful as the old one - electrically speaking - but I’d still expect it to be up to the task.
This. I’ve had boards die as young as 4 or 5 years old. No reason to press your luck regarding a $5 part.
Looking at that circuit would certainly lead one to believe there wouldn’t be much difference in quality between composite/s-video, but the key is how the TV processes them. Whenever you combine analog video signals you are degrading the final picture quality because of how the TV breaks those signals apart. The process is not perfect so the resulting signals are less than the sum. For example:
RF = video + audio = worst; TV has to filter for both video and audio.
Composite = video = ok; TV still has to filter all video (sync, brightness, color).
S Video = color & brightness video signals are separate = good; Less filtering than Composite.
RGBS = every video signal is separate = best; TV doesn’t filter anything
In my A/B comparisons on many TV’s, S-Video is typically 2x cleaner than Composite. The jump from S-Video to RGBS is less noticeable. Some people go gaga over running a supergun via Component video, but the improvement over S-Video isn’t worth spending any more than maybe $20 extra, IMO.
-ud
There is a point that in order to get a clean looking signal, just having YC (S-Video) is enough. I use color difference component because it’s easier to get scalers and transcoders for it-- speaking from personal experience.
Overall, it should be good as long as the monitor that you use does not give you any type of real lag penalty, and/or if you can work any other A/V equipment that you want to use.
