SRK Car Thread (Show it off or ask questions)

Coming right up. I do not make shit up, if I say its real, its real.

:china:

Have to go over to bimmerforums.com and find his pics. His username is matteblackcoupedude, he just moved to Seattle.

Here is the pic from his sig:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/sig2.jpg

Thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=777744

Here are the inprocess pics:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/P1010658Large.jpg?t=1182896493

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/P1010659Large.jpg?t=1182896512

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/P1010673Large.jpg?t=1183477720

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/P1010685Large.jpg?t=1183670205

Goddamnā€¦finished pics are going to be found in another threadā€¦shit I have to keep looking for the final outcome thread.

Ah!

Here is the thread with the finished product:

FINALLY, the finished product, $14K and many months later:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/P1010732Large.jpg?t=1186203758

thereā€™s a very small rust spot on the roof of my truck. how do i go about fixing this without making the truck look like trash?

Matte black is sick. I wanted to do that to my old car but I hear it is a pain.

wtf. thats so cleanā€¦ to think his paint costs almost as much as my car.

ouch. rust is likeā€¦ almost like the point of no return. is your paint chipping already?:wasted:

just checked it out again, and yes. the paint kinda lifted up around the open spot, to the point of almost cracking.

Uhh yeah, unless you drive a smart car and youā€™re using finger paint from an elementary school.

Let me know how your sick $500 paint job comes out.

Finger paint, lol.

Best you can do:

Using a fine grit sandpaper (600 or so), lightly sand down the rust spot until you have removed all the rust. Try to spare the surrounding paint as much as possible, but get ALL of the rust.

Now, at this point, you have two options:

  1. Use touch up paint on it, then have a body shop lightly wetsand it down and buff it out. This is the cheap option. This will look ok from a few feet away, but up close it will be obvious that the spot has been worked on.

  2. Have a bodyshop paint match and re-spray that spot (both color and clear). This will cost a few hundred bucks.

My piece of shit RSX

Not even running right now. Blown head gasket, dead battery, ignition went out and iā€™m too broke to fix it all right now. Its not a bad car, iā€™ve just had EXTREMELY bad luck with it (several accidents, almost all not my fault). Iā€™m not even really in to rice rockets anymore.

Anyway heres some Info on it. Things iā€™ve done and not necessarily on the car still:

2002 Fire Pepper Red Pearl (only year they made it) Type-S
Injen Cold Air
Comptech Race Header (i was one of the first people to ever have one of these)
Tsudo/apex-i exhausts (not installed anymore, got annoying)
Polyurethane Motor Mounts
Exedy stage 1 clutch with ACT lightweight flywheel
Hondata K-pro (stolen)
Pioneer HU (stolen)
Alpine 9855 HU
Interior Conversion: Tan -> Black
JDM Door Inserts
JL Audio 12w7 with JL 1000/1 in custom setup (not installed)
DIY JDM Blacked Housing Headlights
VIS CF Hood (faded)
20% Tint on 5 windows
Replaced SKunk2ā€™s for JIC FLA2s Full Suspension
Megan C pillar bar (lol)
JDM Steering wheel
16" flat black Rota Slipstreams wrapped in Falken Azenis (grips like no other)

I think thats itā€¦

Right now I own a red 1995 Pontiac Firehawk, No. 287 out of 2000 made that year. I love the hell out of this baby but truthfully I want another 98-02 Trans Am. Those things just look so pissed off, lol.

Right now Iā€™m trying to nab either an MR2 or a Fiero to use as my daily driver and possible mod platform. Has anyone had one of these? I know Fieros had engine fire problems but Iā€™ve read up on ways to fix that.

I would go for the MR2 after test driving both. It wins hands down. Also, the 3S-GTE is a beast.

Thanks dude, I appreciate the feedback. It helps that MR2s are more abundant where Iā€™m at as well :slight_smile: Iā€™m in Oregon and the nearest decent Fiero is in frigginā€™ Vancouver, Wa.

Are there any MR2 years you can recommend? Iā€™m not all that picky, just want something sporty enough to look cool and gets good enough gas mileage to be a daily driver. There seems to be a good amount of late 80s-early 90s models near me.

I take it you mean the old school mr2 (second gen) since you compared it to the fiero?

Turbos are a lot harder to find, but I am not sure what your goals are so that may not even be relevant. NA may be the way to go. Just know that they are a bitch to work on.

Thatā€™s the style I prefer, yeah. While a Turbo would kick ass, I doubt it would be practical for use as a DD or on my wallet. I have a mechanic friend who specializes in imports so the auto work isnā€™t such a big deal.

Thereā€™s a Turbo model for sale in Portland but itā€™s more than I want to pay at the moment; there are several NA models here though so Iā€™m sure I can find something nice.

Again, thanks for your help!

Itā€™s very hard to describe without looking at it, but the clutch/flywheel/clutch fork/ throwout bearing and pressure plate are in a transmission bellhousing, and have no direct relation to how a tranny will act in a specific gear, it will only affects all gears. The tranny has a huge shaft sticking out the front with splines on it, this is called the input shaft.
The input shaft has the clutch connected to it by the splines.
When a car has a problem with the clutch disengaging, the clutch never quits making contact with the flywheel, so the input shaft never quits being turned by the engine/flywheel, and since the input shaft is still moving at flywheel speed, it will grind and will not want to go into any gear without a huge fuss.
I am ASE certified and have changed 3 manual transmissions before, I just didnā€™t want to sound like a dick and throw that around :sweat:

any 240 owners in here. looking to get one from 95-98. pretty much just for daily/casual driving. wouldnā€™t get one to race with. iā€™m too broke plus with 3 kids that just wouldnā€™t work for me. what are some pros and cons with theses?

Iā€™m on my second 240 right now, my first was a 96, my current is a 97.
To be honest, itā€™s overall the best car Iā€™ve owned, which is why I have a second one after selling my first.

If you find one in good condition, go for it. There is a huge amount of aftermarket support for these cars. No huge problems for these cars. If you do buy one, youā€™ll probably need to replace the bushings because they are probably all worn and old. Both of my S14s have had a small oil leak from the same place, the oil pan gasket. Check the clutch cylinders. Transmission may grind a bit. My first one grinded going into 2nd gear when it was cold. My second one needs to be put into 4th before going into reverse.

Pros: Nice styling, comfortable, good aftermarket support, easy to work on, not too many large problems, pretty cheap parts, tons of used parts, holds value pretty well, decent gas mileage. Clean modified or stock ones are very very reliable.

Cons: Back seats are useless, car is a money pit if you let it be, if you buy a poorly modified one it may be hell to diagnose and fix.

My old one

My current one, unfinished project. When itā€™s done, it will look similar to my friendā€™s one

My friendā€™s S14

I would say avoid a S14 because the drift taxā€¦ but I have a 5G Prelude which also has an unusually high resale.

You could not give someone a 240SX when they were new. I remember a teacher of mine, in like 2000 had a mint 95 SE for 2800. Now 10 years later itā€™s worth is like 3x.

Iā€™d love a 97-98 with a RB26ā€¦

Hey man, I respect the skills and shitā€¦you would have been fine to mention you are an ASE mechanic. :china:

Iā€™m not ASE certified, but I have swapped out one manual trans before. It was on a 5.0L mustang, and the job was really pretty straightforward.