Emissions dude, if you live in Utah, California, or any state taht does smog you can’t do this unless you know people who can pass emissions for you and are willing to cut the cats out. You’ll spend another 10k minimum on top of what you spent on the car, just to get more power.
its cheap in the sense that its the bare minimum to deal with the torque loads the car comes with.
Base manual RT comes with a transmission that can hold up to 700 lb-ft torque, a clutch that can do 500 hp, and axles that can withstand 600 lb-ft tq
thats almost double the power the car came with. compared to the cheaper mustang 5.0 which comes with a cheap chinese transmission that will break over 50-75 tq over what its rated, including axles, etc. The engine also suffers from the fact that if you add a blower, you need to rebuild it internally because it’s the bare minimum. That’s what people mean when they say its cheap.
Its something japanese cars suffer from, because they are nothing but massive bean counters and don’t want you doing things to their cars because their focus is drivability and reliablity, not durability in the sense of abuse. GT-R stock tranny can’t do any more power than it already does for the same reasons.
I bet he bought the car thinking it was a “tuner” car. Power isn’t cheap, especially in today’s compartamelized world where your parts are rated for just above what the car makes stock.
I’m not too concerned with speed. There are legal limits to it and I’m not interested in racing hot blooded men for Darwin awards. If I owned a R35 GTR I don’t think I’d race…and by race we are probably talking about drag racing in a straight line anyway. I would never buy a 86 and shove an oversized 2jz that barely fits into it so I can burn the rear tires and show off. I think once you do that the 86 isn’t an 86 anymore and you’ve missed the point of the car.
engineers have to answer to bean counters and bean counters ultimately decide what goes in a car.
materials aren’t cheap, so if bean counters know they can save 200 dollars per car if the torque rating for an axle goes from 300 to 200 they will do it. that isn’t a design choice, its cutting costs within the safety rating to meet the minimum power output of the vehicle. The bean counter won’t care if this means that under “spirited” driving the car can break, that’s why they write contracts and or implement warranty policy where they go out of their way to determine how you broke said part.
A slightly thicker axle is always going to take better to abuse, unless the axle is made of exotic materials in which a lighter axle using said material is significantly stronger than standard iron, using the word design philosophy doesn’t make sense to me.
The car is meant to be lightweight, nimble and rev-happy amongst other things.
Lightweight is good for fuel efficiency, performance, and etc… but it also means not getting a 5 star crash rating.
Efficient and rev-happy is good but it also means reducing the thermal and stress capabilities of the different components.
The Toyota team of engineers did a good job.
Design philosophy means an over arcing… uuuh, fuck google that shit.
The axle and transmission issue was a bean counter choice, not a design issue. Theres no reason those axles should be breakimg on stock loads, which they do.
Ypu dont shave weight by making components like the axles weaker. The angular momentum and resulting loss of power would have been beyond negligible
Id also believe claims of design choices for the transmission, but 1, 2nd and 3rd are long gears. Gears that long ahould be able to deal with more power relative to what they can deal with now.
Sad days, need a clutch replacement, then a couple of days ago I was travelling on the motorway, lorry in front blows a tyre leaving a large pieces of debris laying in my path, I can’t move out the way in time and go over it, pull over and see half my front splitter is missing, no visible damage phew car just looks stock now :(. Luckily I was able to slow down enough as it probably could have been much worse had I hit it at 70.
If you lower your car you’re more prone to axle issues, the better question is; if you’re going to try and make your car even faster, why are you not upgrading your car accordingly? Most cars don’t do well with stock parts when you throw shitloads of power into them.
I should note that there have been recorded issues without added power, I would upgrade anyways in that case. It’s only gonna run you 1k and it’s an easy job to upgrade yourself.
86/frs/brz garbage car. Over priced for 200hp. Considering you guys can get 350z and 370z, stangs dirt cheap over in the usa. Why anyone look at this car for modding is beyond me?
Was looking at a e34 540i for dorifto, but last time i owned a bmw, spent its days in the shop getting fixed.
Though 300hp stock, rigid body and rwd for under 7gs sounds tasty. Any of yoy guys mess with these.
I don’t know anything about the 370z or 350z, buuuuut I will say this:
The FT86 is a good entry skill level car. Most of the stuff is pretty basic which is what you want learning. The car is pretty good at teaching you how to stay balance on four wheels when making a sharp turn and making your tires squeal. Turning wise, I can’t imagine this car losing to anyone else unless it’s almost a super car.
I dont know about that @“Tekno Virus”. The car comes stock with some shitty tires. If drifting is your thing, i think there are better cheaper options especially down in the states. I dont want to rag on another mans purchase. I just think its overpriced and leave it at that. If the boys can make it work please share your experiences.
I’ve been using those eco tires before on my Honda Civic. The first set I had were cheap ones from Sumitomo and I actually spun out in the middle of the freeway evading someone about to hit me. So I never go cheap on the tires anymore. I don’t necessarily drift or even am not sure know how to drift even though I do it every so often. For me, as long as in the right powerband and the car is balanced on four wheels, the car will turn sideways. There’s like a balanced between how much you throttle and steer. It seems that the more you trottle, the less you have to steer. There was one time I was over steered and almost crashed looool. There was another time I didn’t throttle enough and I almost hit the curb. whooooweeee. Mind you, I’m not some competitor or car show-off person. I’m just a dude that like to cruise in his 86-239.
Overtime, I’d like to add a few mods to make it more abusable so that it’ll be a street drivable car that I can have fun on an empty parking lot way out in the sticks.
I don’t think it’s overpriced. It’s inline with the s2000 and the Miata. If the Miata had retained that “happy look” I think I would liked the Miata better (instead now it’s all angry looking pffahhaha). Everytime I see an s2000, I’m like ooooo that bitch look clean as fuark doe.
Those tires aren’t too bad. The engineer made the car so that it could handle well inherently of itself and not depend on the tires. Of course, if you put stickier tires like 255/whatever, that car is bananas.
My driver side seat was cracking and planned to reupholster the whole car. Instead, I found a great deal on a full SRT seat setup.Took a few hours to pick them up and some time to install. The upgrade was definitely worth it! Now to leather wrap the arm rest and replace those side panels.
Mate Rimac is the new Tony Stark, the Concept One is insane! Top speed 220mph, 155mph at the quarter mile, only required a single charge and was still able to do multiple runs on the drag strip.
Bangin Gears pt1
I am seriously considering getting one and putting a lift kit on it but people have told me it may be smart to have another car because Jeeps can be unreliable sometimes. I really wont one but screw having another car because i was going to trade in the one I have now. Thoughts?
