It worked great. This is definitely the easiest pad to hack, no issues with pots or resistors. The Home pad is a little small, but everything else is great
i will rep you when its put back on !!!
Fucking awesome
those PCB’s are smooooooooth
Q: CodeMan why are those leads stripped so much! is there a reason why you have so much wire exposed?
awesome work! thanks so much
Does both grounds on the controller (Black ground wire & Shielding ground wire) have to be fuse into one for this to work?
I’m using a dpdt switch.
As I did this on PS3 TE stick and while the ps3 side works fine, when I switch to the 360 side I get a unreconized device.
PS3 DPDT
D+ to D+ slot 1a
D- to D- slot 1b
USB DPDT
D+ to D+ slot 2a
D- to D- Slot 2b
X360 DPDT
D+ to D+ Slot 3a
D- to D- Slot 3b
Both USB Ground are still in their respective places and those cables where never cut. (This is the original usb cable that ran from the TE stick.
X360 ground was connected to the Ground on the ps3 TE PCB
X360 Shielding Gound was also connected to the other PS3 TE Ground PCB
X360 Red cable was connected to the PS3 5v
PS3 5v line connected to the USB red cable
When switched to PS3, works no issues
When switched to X360, Power comes on, then goes off, Windows deteched Unknown USB Device. If you press the buttons on the controller, the turbo lights on the TE stick lights up corresponding to the button press.
What did I do wrong?
Do I need to connect all the ground cables to 1?? Shielding ground and pcb ground?
Did you install the microsoft 360 controller driver?
It’s a USB connection, but it sounds as though your PS3 side works because that has no needed driver associated with it (thus the reason you’re allowed to use straight up converters for ps2/ps1 to ps3, they just convert the pins). However, the 360 controller requires drivers to make them work (thus, the reason you can’t use a 360 controller on a ps3 system, or a ps3 controller on a 360… there’s no embedded drivers).
A good test is to see if a regular wired 360 controller will work on your system first, if that works…try your modded connection, if that doesn’t work then it’s definitely your wiring somewhere.
Yes I did install the drivers
Microsoft drivers were installed and tested with the controller before i cut the cord.
I had the joystick working with the pcb when I had 2 cables going out of the joystick case.
When I cut the cord and installed the dpdt switch, thats when the issue pop out.
I know it’s something with the wiring, the d+ and d- and power are good, so I’m thinking it’s a ground issue
how to wire the JLF-TP-8YT (Sanwa)
hey want to wire the JLF to the Fightpad PCB!
the problem is that the JLF uses this JLF-H cable:
http://www.modchipman.com/-p-1647.html
its a 5 pin cable
- ground
- up
- down
- left
- right
i think i solder:
up to DU
down to DD
left to DL
right to DR
am i right???
but where do i sold the ONE ground-cable (1.)???
and where do i ground LT LB START and BACK???
sorry i’m a noob
PLEASE HELP ME!!!
Common ground pad, you can use any ground source for any button, as well as the JLF.
Only change I would make to the diagram above is adding a note to remind people that the switch needs to be in the middle position (sometimes it’s a good idea to just glue it there before putting it in the pad).
THX!!!
than its gonna be EASY!
Time to get me one of these fightpads! Seems simple as hell. 
Same points for PS3 I assume? :wonder:
Diagram please! :lovin:
No, the ps3 is a wireless controller. i’ll snap some pictures of that PCB later when i get home for you.
It has extra stuff in it for the wireless capabilities, so some of the points aren’t as easy to get to.
these pads would be so awesome to pad hack if they were readily more available and don’t cost an arm and a leg…
Has anyone come up with some way to relocate the switch which changes the D-Pad to act as an analogue stick? That’s one of the main reasons I want to try and padhack this pad in particular 
i got mine working now with TE.
thanks for the write up.
i had lil trouble first but got it.
i just have to secure everything in place
Relocate? It’s still on the thing when you remove the cover, if that’s what you mean. It’s on teh back side, where the start and back solder points are. It’s that rectangular silver thing that doesn’t look like anything else.
1.desolder original TPTT switch, move (or replace with new one) to where you want it.
2. Resolder points to where they were… this time with extended lines that run to the pcb.
3. ??
4. Profit
Thanks for the guide for that pad. I would have ended up picking up a new 360 controller were it not for this. Never crossed my mind how simple the Madcatz controller could be 
.
Now I just need the buttons and joystick and my new stick will be complete! I’ll be sure to post up some picks in the new arcade stick post when I’m done :wgrin: !
Side note: Playing four player Street Fighter with the wires is a blast (with two controllers waiting to be installed in sticks). I suppose this is what stick assembly and alcohol will do to normally fairly rational Street Fighter players. Believe it or not, with two people on the wires we actually managed to pull off a few specials . Wish I had a video of us doing that now…
K, so here’s a good rule of thumb
don’t ever try and desolder + clean out where the USB wires attach to the PCB. I tried that tonight and tore up the trace pads where you solder to.
pic for reference of what I had to do to fix my fuck up:
http://www.lolstash.com/images/14zhwtx60zaxi84c2lp.jpg
had to solder to the capacitors directly, and the VCC point was a guess. You can see where I tried to clean B1 and B2, and now there’s no silver pad because I’m a fucking moron.