What’s the best way to solder the Left button and the Left trigger button to push buttons? Can you display a more detail pic of the solder points on the fightpad. Thanks.
I just got this pad soldered… and I also accidentally messed up my guide button. Has anyone found an alternate solder point yet?
What point should you solder for the turbo function??
just curious, is it possible to just bypass the start/back buttons from the metal thats jutting out of the board to the button instead of having to desolder it and connect the wiring directly on to the board? just seems like the better option for organization since you wouldn’t have to do anything on the bottom of the board.
Test it yourself with a piece of wire.
took your recommendation
and yup it works, yay for that, its gonna save me a ton on inside space 
I guess I will try this thread to, I cant seem to get any answers.I have soldered my madcatz fightpad, Is there anything you have to do to it , like callibrate anything?? I have got all my buttons working. The 1 and only problem I have is when I turn on the stick my character is stuck moving left(if you are on the 1st player side) I dont have any of the joystick wires hooked up at all , it just moves left witch I think is weird as the stick is not even hooked up , I have the wires soldered on the d-pad , but they are loose I have yet to hook them into the wire barrier.
I know you had to calibrate the pods on a regular pad or it will do this , but I thought the fightpad you did not have to anything like that. Any help would be appreciated.
When I hook my wires up it will go in all directions but wont come out of the left position its just stuck moving left , its so annoying.
Use a multimeter to see if the contacts for left are shorted together. Could be a drip of solder.
if i was dual modding with 360 fight pad into ps3 TE, i should be able to wire the stick mode switch and turbo buttons from fightpad to TE and should be able to control fightpad side with it right? i don’t know if its worth doing that much work since TE side pcb is pretty tight for multiple wires to come out and have the cover sit right. probably have to use pretty small gauge wires i guess?
Turbo/Home buttons, yes. It’s only 1 wire to control that function. Most dual mods run a wire from the Home button trace anyway, adding one for Turbo wouldn’t be too much more work.
LS/DP/RS switch, technically yes. You can run a wire from that section, but it’s usually used to control an IMP board (switching from ps3 to 360). If you really wanted to control the actual RS/DP/LS functionality, you’d have to do some precision soldering to the switch on the fight pad. It could be done with some work, but since the switch is usually left in the DP state…there’s really no need for it.
Also, you can get away with a few gauges of wire, last time I ran one from that section it was 26 gauge from a ribbon cable, and it worked fine.
I believe the Madcatz pad that comes with this SFIV PC combo pack is the same as the XBOX 360 pad:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832233014
Not bad for $35 shipped!
-ud
I scorched the guide button contact as well. Here’s what i did:
The trace for the guide button goes up and to the left of the small contact point into the white circle in the center of the PCB. (Hold it in the light and you will see it). I used a really small screwdriver and scraped off about a quarter inch of the trace exposing the copper.
Next, I laid a stripped wire on the exposed trace, heated with an iron and applied solder. The trace is very small, so it will not hold the wire by itself. To add support, I linked the solder I applied to the existing solder on the pcb that is holding the top left green light in place (The trace runs right next to the light).
Worked like a charm.
Hope it helps.
Instead of scraping stuff, here’s another spot you can use, I exclusively use this point when doing fightpad padhacks these days, it’s labeled “S12”:
Yeah, thats the spot i scorched. Once that spot was unusable, I did what I described above as an alternative. You’re right, though. If you can get the solder to stick, that’s the ideal spot to use. For some reason, that was the only contact that gave me a problem.
I’ve tried everything possible to get this PCB to hold a connection and it just isn’t working. Solder simply does not adhere to the button pads (the directional pads hold solder just fine). The best I can get is a weak connection that breaks if I apply even the slightest amount of pressure. No amount of prepping has changed anything. I’ve worked with probably 20 different PCBs over the years and have never had a problem like this.
reply and question
sound to me like you are not getting enough heat to the to the contact. I use a butane soldering iron havent had any problems. I hate to say it but ive dropped soldered the first board i did just hot glue it after and it should hold if you run out of options
If anybody knows im trying to connect a perfect 360 joystick to a madcatz pad. The power supply for the joystick need to be connected to ground since its common ground can i use a d pad ground or is there a specific usb connection cable i should solder too.
I have a tournament edition 1 fightstick and i want to install a bat top on it. Does anyone have any recommendation on where to buy it & how to install it? I gots no cluez.
sweet! i might get a fightpad myself and try this out.
I’m back (kinda)
So I’m finally not getting bombarded by real life so I was able to come into SRK again. For why there is so much exposed this was the first time I’d ever attempted to solder anything so I wanted room for error. I’m actually considering (once financial issues are resolved) building a second stick based off the fightpad again.
If you look at the pictures I posted further back in the thread you will see where you can connect the ground wire for the joystick (provided it works like the standard sanwa wire harness)