Well I don’t need (nor want) two pcb’s in the case. I would want to take out the universal one so I can have plenty of room for clearence. The terminal strips, do they already come in the case or do I have to install some. The reason I’m asking is the X360 PCB i’m getting is Pre-Made from this guy and he already puts the term strip on his PCB’s.
In case you don’t want your universal PCB, sell it to me, I will gladly take it off you hands.
The original case has no terminal strip and all the switches were soldered on, so you need to de-solder them all or replace them with new switches/buttons.
I am finishing up my modding tutorial on this stick on my site. You can use it as a reference.
Hey Faux Did You Update Your Blog With The Step By Step Process Yet??
Yes, I am about 70% done with my tutorial, but you should be able to use it to start your project. Check it out here under joystick mods.
Cool Thanks A Bunch Sir
faux123,
Good mod, now I need to get a hold of the PCB for the 360, since it will be nice to solder 360 capability before my copy sf4 gets here! I will post pictures of my modded stick tonight as soon as I get home to take some shots.
Thank you,
Charlie
Yea I used to have a Pelican case when I used to play with American parts.
Cheap as heck to buy, LOTS of room inside, good angle, solid construction. It just might look a little ‘ugly’ and the button placement is not the best IMO. (Punches are angled unequally to the Kicks)
I think this is the part that most “non-pelican users” complain about. When you look at the right-most six buttons, it actually makes sense to place them the punch buttons to the left more because the distance of the stick/buttons are spaced farther apart than more common sticks. This makes your hands point inward, toward the center of the stick.
Frankly, I like the wider spacing. I don’t feel like I need to cramp my hands into the center of the stick, and I can let my elbows lean back.
I just finished modding my PS2 Real Arcade in about… 2 hours? I did it the sorta lazy way and used QD’s and a pair of scissors to strip the wires. Everything seems to be working great and the difference in quality is absolutely outstanding.
More than happy to post pics if people would like, but it’s a relatively boring mod so I’m not sure who would, hehe. Just replaced all 8 buttons with black ones (left start/select alone) and the joystick with an iL. Doesn’t take too much imagination to envision.
If anyone’s still keeping track of this thread…
Are there any mods I can do to change the recoil on the iL stick? It feels great but sometimes when I do stronger gestures the recoil of the stick makes it do movements I don’t want. Like hitting it to the left makes it click left and right while it’s recoiling/vibrating back to position. Maybe it’ll just get better over time or something.
Wow, I never have it recoil so much that it activates another movement, I guess the way I am holding it, I never truly let go so its always soft landing back to neutral. I actually found the stock spring a little too stiff for me. You may be able to reduce the recoil more if you put in a stiffer spring. Lizardlick sells a stiffer spring for the stick.
When I let go the recoil it produces is surprisingly strong to me. I tested it using the input detect in the SF4 training menu and it recoiled like 6 times when I tap it forward a bit strongly. -> <- -> <- -> <- -> or something along those lines. Doing 2 360’s for Zangief’s super also ended up being unwieldy, that is to say I could not do it at all. No idea what to think of all this. There isn’t a wrong way to install the joystick… is there?
I’ve also noticed that hitting two buttons at once yield slightly strange results at times. Like it would definitely hit both buttons but sometimes it’ll register one of the buttons twice. Let’s use LP and MP for an example…
The input would detect that LP, then LP+MP would be pressed. Tested with other combinations and the result was the same. Most of the time it would simply register as LP+MP, but sometimes it would register as LP, LP+MP. No clue why. My wire work looks absolutely fine with no interference. I suppose I should have tested it with the old buttons but it’s a little too late for that, haha.
Thanks faux123 for your tutorial, you really helped me with my Universal mod. I don’t think I would have the courage to try without it 
I am actually cleaning up my wiring job, now that I know how things work a little better.
Here is a pic of the stick, I’ll up the inside when its nice and clean
Allright my ps2 only pelican stick now has 8 happ buttons and an iL stick. Blue stick, and the buttons alternate between black and blue. I’m planning on using this to play mvc2 on the DC and sf4 on the ps3. I have a converter for the dc already, what converter do I need to ensure a lag free experience on the ps3? Also, I took pictures of the wiring before I ripped all the old stuff out, so all I need to do is rewire and solder everything back the way it was right?
So it just occurred to me that I could use quick disconnects and avoid soldering. Where can I find these, and exactly what kind do I need? I’m not even sure what size the stock wires are in the pelican. I’m still taking advice on ps3 adaptors as well.
You are welcome! I am happy that I helped at least 1 other person 
Right now post 2.70, so far I have NOT found an adapter that will work the the pelicans. I am in the processing of acquiring more adapters to test. Will keep you guys updated (I hate Sony now because of 2.70).
If you go with Happ parts then .187 size is the one for you. The stock wire size is either 26 or 28 AWG pretty tiny. You can still use QDS if you strip the wires and fold them 2~3 times, it will make the wires thicker for the QDS. Make sure you get the right crimping tool.
Faux, have you tried Laugh’s In-Pin? does his work for the PS2 pelican?
No Converters Work for my Pelican Universal 
Well I finally got my converters in from Sourcing Map (lots of interesting chinese gaming stuff on that site btw). Unfortunately they DO NOT WORK on my Pelican Universal :annoy: . I put all new Happ buttons and a iL Competition stick purchased through Rollie Electronics. The stick works great on my Wii and original XBox. I bought both Sourcing Map converters that have been mentioned in this thread and neither one works. Oh well I think I’ll just have to buy a Cthulhu board. Of course now that it looks like Capcom Vs. Tatsunoku is coming to Wii in the US I’ll have another good use for it.
Ajil said - "So it just occurred to me that I could use quick disconnects and avoid soldering. Where can I find these, and exactly what kind do I need? I’m not even sure what size the stock wires are in the pelican. I’m still taking advice on ps3 adaptors as well. "
I’ll tell you what, probably the best place to order QD’s is this place http://www.electerm.com/quick.html
You can just phone in your order, super easy and cheaper than radio shack for bags of 100. For my pelican universal I used .187 QD’s of two different guage’s, because i replaced the ground wires with heavier gauge wire (I don’t recommend that). The smallest guage they sell (item # MB2-FQ8) is perfect for one to maybe five? at once of the small guage stranded wire in the Pelican sticks. You can’t get these small gauge QD’s through radio shack so I definately will buy from these Electrical Terminal Service guys again.