Also, I have not had nor experienced, at least as far as I have seen, any lag whatsoever.
If anyone could point me in the direction of that input lag program to test it on their PC, I’d be more than happy to do so for you if you’re interested in said PS2-to-PS3 adapter.
Also, if you do plan on purchasing that adapter, be sure to Google “Sourcing Map Coupons” to find some $3 off the total price.
Hey guys, I’m looking to mod my universal pelican real arcade stick as well.
I have never modded an arcade stick before. Is it just a drop-in replacement? Or is soldering required for changing the joystick and/or pushbuttons? I don’t know how to solder. :sad:
I’ve ordered an universal pelican real arcade stick last week. It’s on its way here (slow mail). Once its here I will post a step by step mod on here and on my site. So watch for it in next couple of weeks.
I know this thread is about the PS2 Pelican, but a bunch of you are asking about the Universal. I know some of the old threads are lost in time because the stick is so old, but the recommended thing to do with the Universal is to actually gut the PCB. It can short the rumble on your PS2 if you’re switching between xbox and ps2 before the stick has a chance for the internals to cool down. I know when a lot of guys see the stick, they think it’s the biggest boat that’s ever come in front of their TV. I gotta say, I really love the weight of the stick.
The large body is also great for adding multiple PCBs. You could technically add in a ps2 and xbox360 pcb, join the 5v and grounds of each stick to each other, and you can play on any of the major systems using converters. (Just don’t plug in both cords at once).
if you can get your hands on a jlf (which is a hot commodity at the moment) i think you can fit it in if you get it with an s-plate mount. you would have to screw it in length-wise left to right. i was thinking about doing this exact same mod with my ps2 real arcade but settled for a madcatz se fightstick when i realized how long the parts would take to come in from lizard lick.
I’ve added a JLF vertically, but the mounting holes are different than the american stick that was there. I got lazy and didn’t patch up the hole, but the stick feels great. You can take a sturdy screwdriver and remove some excess wood to fit the plate in this way.
The button holes require about 2mm of sanding to fit Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons. Since it’s wood, if you do it right, you can have snap ins fit snugly in. I forget if there’s enough space for mounting nuts, but like I said, it’s wood.
As promised, I finally got a hold of the Pelican Real Arcade Universal. I have WAY too many Japanese style sticks and I really missed the American Bat sticks that I grew up with.
My current plan for modding/upgrading this sticks are:
Find a converter that will work with the PS2 port of this stick for use on PS3
Add a madcatz 360 PCB to the existing Pelican PCB to update this stick with its universal theme intact
Upgrade the joystick and buttons with iL Euro stick and Happ Competition buttons.
Here’s a photo of the stick I got from mail yesterday. I fell in love with it instantly. The size and weight are both PERFECT. I am surprised to find out that this stick is sorta rare among gamers.
I will post my progress both here and on my site. I will start this project this weekend.
Really? I have 5 of these things… 2 for PS2, 2 for the XBOX and 1 for the GCN… never grabbed a Universal one… I wanted the full size Universal but they didn’t make many, and they released the smaller model Universal later.
I still like them, and I thought they were a pretty decent stick for the price when they released. They had some initial quality issues but nothing disastrous. They got CHEAP quickly too since no-one was really buying sticks at the time. I think I paid $50 on release for the PS2 ones, $20 each for the XBOX ones later and $10 for the GCN one on closeout!
My PS2 ones are due for a rebuild soon… they’re feeling their years (cheap Pelican buttons don’t stand the test of time) and I ordered a couple converters for them so I can use them on my PS3.
Still, besides the converters and their awesome AV switchers, the Real Arcade series is the best thing Pelican ever did in my eyes… makes up for their not so hot Silent Scope rifle.
I found the Sumoto PS2->PS3 adapter works with Pelican Real Arcade Universal PCBs. It is lagless. So far the Sumoto adapters seem to be a real winner here, I’ve used PSX digital, PS2 DS and now the Pelican Universal, and so far everything’s been flawless and lagless.
Sumotos can be found on ebay for around $15 shipped. If you want a close up photo of it, check here.
I modded this thing back in 2005. I dont use american parts anymore but loved the weight , angle and general feel of the stick. I pick up some aluminum plate this weekend from home depot and plan on modding this to fit semitzu parts and then put a nice sheet of lexan over it with some chemistry art or something.
I am almost done with my dual PCB mod for the Pelican Real Arcade Universal stick. Only a few things left to do.
Drill hole for madcatz 360 USB cable
Drill hole for 2.5mm headset extender cable.
Here’s a photo of the interior with most of the wiring done. I’ve tested my work so far using a PC, all the buttons and stick operate properly. I am very pleased how this turned out. Now I have a true 100% American arcade stick with true Universal multi-console/PC compatibility:
PS1/2 (built-in), Xbox (built-in), GameCube/Wii (built-in), Xbox 360 (built-in), PS 3 (w/Sumoto adapter) / DreamCast (w/ Innovation Adapter) and PC (built-in).
Yea I Have One In The Closet And My Hk Gave Out One Me. So I Stopped Using It. But Dam This Mod You’re Doing Is Too Nice. Maybe I Can Send Mines To You And You Can Hammer It Out
Thanks everyone for the info on the pelican universal stick!
Man I was about to give up on my pelican universal stick (I have bought two ps2 to ps3 adapters neither work) until I found this forum. Special thanks to the guy who suggested searching for a coupon code first. Here’s one that worked for me HLMXM7EVZQ So if this adapter actually works I will definately be adding new parts and posting pics here. I was begining to think all hope was lost for my trusty pelican universal.
Good thread, I really like the look of this stick ( plus it’s one that not a lot of people are using now) and I’m going to get on off of ebay. My question is would I need to completly get rid of the old PCB if I wanted to just make it for a X360 board?
Also, would the Happ 360 Perfect Stick work in this case without huge modding to the case itself?
I don’t know which version you are talking about, but both version PS2 or Universal PCBs are good. They are both common ground, so very easy to add 2nd PCB to them. You should be able to fit a P360 stick in there without much problem, just need to find a reliable +5volt source (in your case from 360 PCB) to power the optical sensors.