Whoever looking for PCIe USB that works with the stick, I have finally found one!!
startech.com/Cards-Adapters/USB-2/Card/4-Port-PCI-Express-Low-Profile-High-Speed-USB-Card~PEXUSB4DP
Running on VIA VT6212 chipset that support UHCI controller.
Tested working like a charm with my MadCatz SE on Windows 7 64 bit…
Has anyone found an XBOX 360 fightstick that works with the Z87X-UD5H motherboard?
Ive tried my generation 2 PS3 TE stick and tried a 360 Real Arcade Pro VX SA and neither worked. The PS3 TE would install and my PC couldnt even install the Hori Rap.
Also, are they new XBOX One sticks Madcatz backwards compatible with XBOX 360?
its a driver issue
The RAP is definitely a drive issue. My TE stick may be too old for the newer PC USBs, but has anyone tried a newer stick with this board or one similar?
From what I have read the newer MadCatz sticks work with PCs better than the earlier generation, but after seeing the RAP fail I am a bit worried.
Hori Inc makes no guarantees or promises about Windows Compatibility with any of their sticks.
Hori only concern with Xbox 360 sticks working on the xbox 360 and PS3 sticks working with the PS3.
Hori offers no Support for PC use as the product was never intended for the PC.
But that is all OFF TOPIC for this thread.
Its cut and dry, Mad Catz TE Round 1 and Round 2 for the PS3 has issues which is described on Page 1.
The TE-S (from the Chun Li TE-S onwards) do not have this issue.
I’ve fixed this issue by using a MC Cthulhu, for only $35 it’s better then trying to find hardware for your pc to get it working.
That website for that board specifically says it does not work with XBOX 360.
Yes the basic Cthulhu works for PS3 and PC
The MC Cthulhu works also on SNES, NES, Saturn, Dreamcast, Turbografx 16, GameCube, PS1/PS2 and Original Xbox.
For Xbox 360 support, you have to do a Dual mod with a compatible common ground Xbox 360 PCB (like a Mad Catz Fight Pad).
What Darksakul stated, I searched countless sites and no one really had a solid solution. The Cthulhu board was the best option IMO. I’ve searched usb boards and it was also a hit or miss, since I already own a PS3, I didn’t mind putting it in my arcade stick. Then I figured why not just get the MC version, in case if I ever wanted to play PS2 or any older systems. Best $35 mod I’ve invested in, without having to worry about compatibility/driver issues.
So I have a PS3 stick and it works on my PC running Win8. It dose not work in USB 2.0 or 3.0 ports, It dose not work with Win7 and what I have to do is use a USB 2.0 extention cord in a USB 3.0 port and some how it just works.
Just wanted to share since I bet a lot of people have a USB extention cord just laying around 
I’ve got a ASRock H61M-VS which uses Intel based stuff and an ATI card and I’m still having issues. Anyone got any suggestions? I tried a lot of stuff. Motion joy, Playing with Bio settings, every usb port, only it plugged in.
The easy work around is use a different USB extension PCI card
The better solution is replace the Stick’s PCB
I’m trying to avoid both really… I don’t have enough slots for a PCI really and the stick’s PCB is a pain to change really. I had a “modded” stick that I just unsolder everything from because in theory it should have worked, but something was loose and wires were everywhere. I had an Imp and MC Cthulu and a third party x360 controller pad PCB in there.
Edit: Him did some research… really wish I had the Akishop PS360+ now. Does it really not need a 360 pcb for dual modding? If I had that and a better RJ45 connector I’d be set, of course the cost is more then I want to spend right now. I’m just to terrible at wiring. I can solder, but everything is all over the place it needs to be cleaner.
Wow ! all these years and finally a solution for those that are not inclined or don`t have room for another pci card in there rig !
Thanks so much !!
To confirm windows see my original release SF TE PS3 stick as
Pc Wired stick 8838 , it never recognises any input plugged into usb 2 or 3
Doing as GenKaan said I plugged an old USB extension cable I had lying around from a USB 3.0 slot to my stick and it works ! so happy thanks !!!
I didn’t have to do nothing special to get it working - it just recognises input when its plugged into a USB 3 port via an old USB extension cord
Win 7 64 Bit
Gigabyte UD3H B3
…And for all TE PCB issues, your best/safest option for PCB replacement would still be a Cthulu-class PCB.
Vanilla Cthulu PCB is fine if all you’re going to do is play with emulators on a PC/Mac.
(Don’t think because the PCB is “PC” compatible means that it doesn’t work with a Mac. I’ve used these Cthulu joysticks on Macs all the time and they work just fine. The small size of the PCB means very minimal footprint in the interior of your joystick which is something to keep in mind if you choose to buy a smaller case retro-joystick like the Capcom Power Stick or Agetec Dreamcast joystick.)
IF you’re going back and forth between PC emu play and consoles, the MC Cthulu is probably the better buy for you keeping in mind that it will work with up to 14 different machines (consoles AND PC/Mac). The only problem is that you have to get the RJ-45 jack pass-through to make the MC Cthulu worthwhile. That means also building up a small collection of RJ-45 cables (USB-enabled, PSX/PS2, Dreamcast, Saturn, SNES, NES, Gamecube, etc.). That can cost a bit more.
Can’t sing the praises of this PCB enough… it’s ultra-reliable and even though it’s been a while since the Dreamcast support was added, it’s a very good multi-console PCB if you choose to go with the $35 MC Cthulu model PCB.
I’m assuming this was also aimed at me. I already have most of the things you listed:
MC Cthulu
RJ45 jack pass-through (which my dumb partner in modding at the time order the punch in type instead of the RJ45 female.)
PS2/Gamecube RJ45 cables
I also have an Imp and a after market x360 pcb, but to be honest I don’t own a x360 and don’t see a single reason I would ever need to play on one so I could easily skip that all together. The main issue I probably have is.
Clean way to get from the MC Cthulu to the RJ45 connector. I could spend $10 on a new pass-through that doesn’t have the punch on the back so I can just use the RJ45 plug, but I still need to solder the wires to the MC Cthulu on the other side, which was fixed in the Akishop PS360+ by having a RJ45 female port right on the PCB.
Clean way to get the button onto the MC Cthulu. Call me nuts, but I’m not to fond of the idea of cutting the ribbion cables that go to the button PCB in my stick, which means my only alternative is to solder more wires from the PCB to the MC Cthulu (MORE WIRES NOO! :\ )
If I am correct the Imp is not necessary unless I wanted a 360 mod in there. Also does the MC Cthulu board have a space for the home button? I don’t remember; not a deal breaker though.
Edit: Is there a reason non of the these PCBs make a connector port for the buttons and joystick right on the PCB? I mean the Phreakmods Cerberus PCB is made to fit right onto the x360s pcb why not just make one that has these connectors regardless of whether they fit right onto the other PCB?
You only need the RJ45 connector if you are doing a Multi-system set up, if you are just doing PS3/PC stick to USB.
You Soldering a total of 11 wires, 8 top panel buttons + start, select and ground it isn’t that bad.
The Cthulhu and MC Cthulhu has Home button support. So you more than likely have to solder for that as well.
Imp only used in Dual-mods (2 PCBs)
Phreakmod’s Cerberus PCB and Toodle’s Kitty TE are designed to be used as a easy to do Dual mod with a Xbox 360 TE, The PS3 PCB in the TE is completely different. The Cthulhu uses screw terminals for except the Dual-mod soldering points and the system cable/ Ethernet cable area.
Your mileage on PC will vary with any joystick that ISN’T using a Cthulu PCB.
Here’s what I found out about most Hori joysticks since the PS3 era.
They generally DO work with PC’s. Some of them function pretty darn well with MAME and most other older console emulators.
The main issue comes with the D L R switch on the PS3 Hori joysticks. You have to be careful on where it’s set otherwise the computer detects the joystick as “POV” (analog) when it’s really a digital control lever. This issue doesn’t pop up with the Cthulu since it doesn’t support the analog joystick function.
It’s really a minor pain-in-the-butt but it’s one to be aware of.
I have an HRAP that has an LS-58 installed. The LS-58 was giving me all sorts of hassles the other day when I attempted to use that joystick to play an old school shooter. The problem I discovered later on was the whole “D L R” functionality of the Hori PCB. Sometimes you have to switch from “D” to “L” (or “R”; I forget which but this situation can occur with some Hori’s) to get the joystick to function properly. I don’t know why but on certain joysticks the “D” function gets interpreted as “POV”/analog joystick and that can mess up your gameplay nicely!
Anyway, what happened during gameplay with the LS-58 was that it would cut in-and-out when I moved the joystick down. It just occurred to me the problem was the “D L R” switch and not the joystick itself. Had I just moved the switch to “L” before connecting to the computer (or afterwards; shouldn’t make a difference with USB) the game would have played fine.
I noticed the same issue with the HRAP V3 SA. In that case, I’m pretty sure I DID reset the emulator (MAME) to interpret the joystick as “POV” function. I don’t think I had to do that at all. It would have worked fine just resetting the DLR switch!
FYI, the individual Turbo levers on the HRAP V3 are more convenient than the Turbo toggle button on the other HRAP’s. The Turbo toggle button is technically easy thing to use, yes, but it’s harder to turn off the Turbo toggle and it takes more time to set up initially, too. Both versions of the HRAP Turbo do work well with emulators. Confirmed it for myself.
One other thing to mention –
If you can avoid it and own USB joysticks, DON’T use unmodified PS2 joysticks on PC’s! The buttons get detected differently on the PS2 PCB and you have to reset your emulators so that the buttons you want to use actually work. Same thing happens with the PS3 when you attach a PS2 to the system through a USB adapter. It’s a pain having to reset button assignments every time you want to play a round of a fighting game.
These are just examples of why I generally don’t use branded-PCB’s with PC/Mac. You’re better off with the Cthulu if you don’t to be rechecking settings all the time. On the other hand, the Turbo function on the Hori PCB does come in handy for some shooters…
The problem is I don’t want it to end up like this again.
How do I keep them organized? Also how do I not cut my ribbon wires and still connect it to the MC Cthulu, does anyone sell the replacements for those?
I too have been trying to get my PS3 TE-S working on any PC for the passed 3 years now. Just built a new computer too and it still didn’t work on any USB port, 2.0 or 3.0.
Any clue what brand or what kind of USB extension that you are using?