REV 2 has just the holes for physical switches removed, aligned properly connectors and have now the same orientation as the Brook UFB or PS4+.
Front panel have
[list]
[] LS/DP/RS switch
[] Lock/Unlock Home/Turbo/Start/Select switch
[] Players LEDs where old top turbo led where or on Players LEDs for SFxT layout.
[] Turbo Button + LED.
[/list]
The harness for the Turbo Button can be change for an other button (TP, R3 or L3).
I’m selling kits on the trading outlet section here:
As Jopamo said, Xbox front panels are physicaly the same as PS3 ones, minus the home button which have player LEDs which are around them.
My PCB will fit in Xbox front panels, however player LEDS will be where old turbo LEDS where (see the video).
My gummo board with leds around the home button shine just fine on my PS3 TE. There’s enough clear plastic around the button to allow light through. The round 1 PS3 TE has no player leds–at least not on the units I’ve modded.
Finally got around to installing the TE front panel and audio board after I received my Brook PS4+ USB Type B 2017 board. Everything went well, the player LEDs, the lock switch for Home/Start/Select, and the audio/mic port all work great. However I did run into one unforeseen issue.
My Brook PS4+ board came with the pins for the LS/DP/RS switch laid horizontally, making it difficult to connect the wire harness from the TE front panel board. To get the JST/XH connector to fit well, I had to flip it over: http://i.imgur.com/t1aJF3Gl.jpg
This also meant that I had to pull out and reverse all of the wires and connection terminals in the connector, which wasn’t a big deal. It seems to hold in fine and the LS/DP/RS switch works perfectly.
Am I correct in understanding that you just turned the connector over and reversed the wires? I’m not particularly handy and just bought one of these boards - is it hard?
It wasn’t very hard. There are tiny and thin metal tabs that hold each connector inside the plastic connector housing. Using a small metal pin or toothpick, you can carefully press down the tabs on each connector just enough so that it can slide out of the housing.
Just be careful not to press and bend the tab too much or it won’t hold in place when you insert it back in, in which case you would have to carefully bend the tab back out.
