Korean arcade parts discussion

[KrAzYsTeP]

@wazwuz I cant wait till they get your 309MJ sorted out, i wanna see whats in store for the mods so i may get a crack at them myself this time around.

[wazwuz]

@Antonio-o-o what an insightful review. Thank you for your time. Yes it will be have glittery chip for the first use and reduced overtime. Since broze actuator is quite new. We only have done golden fanta project for a few months, idk how it perform overtime. But broze is the right material since it have self lubrication properties.

[Antonio-o-o]

@VarmintBaby
Ha! I actually left out a few things as a matter of fact.

@wazwuz
Thank you. About the actuator chip dust; that’s what I assumed. It wasn’t a huge deal by any means, but I just thought I’d mention it. I didn’t get into specific details in my review, but I do have some thoughts on what should be included in a later revision of the Golden Fanta kit (if in fact you’re releasing yet another series), as well as what should be introduced for the Golden Crown mod. They would be very similar components as a matter of fact. I can share that publicly or privately if you’d prefer.

[Nobus3r1]

@Antonio-o-o and @wazwuz if it isn’t too much of a precision mod would it be worth considering making bronze levers to replace the steel ones on the microswitches?

[wazwuz]

@Antonio-o-o you can share it here so we all can give suggestion to make golden mod better

@“Nobus3r1 ver. 2.0” it wil requere more complicated machine to do that. An enterprise level machine.

Btw. I have crazy idea to make gate for fanta. I jus get PM by @LLLLLFiVEL5L that he wounder to make octa gate for fanta.
Actually it will be the frature of my signature Golden Stick.

[Antonio-o-o]

@"Nobus3r1 ver. 2.0"
I think bronze would be too soft a metal for microswitch levers; that they may actually bend/bow during activation. It seems too much effort simply to possibly end the bit of metal shaving that’s a result of friction. Hopefully the amount of dust diminishes over time. I’ll keep an eye on it.

[Agieze]

For the operating force range in use with korean joysticks, bronze hinge levers is a no go.

Other metals than steel are used for hinge levers by some companies, aluminum for example (very soft) , but only for ULTRA LIGHT operating forces (sub 20 gram-force OF ), still a poor solution.

Making custom hinge levers is not a good idea for the simple reason that many micro switches today have their case assembled with a rivet. To swap hinge levers, you would need to drill that rivet (people did it for modding , many times) but the type of attachment for hinge levers is not the same from brand to brand. Generally the nige levers are made of stainless steel or cold rolled steel

Some techs who fiddled a lot with switch levers actually bent them to reduce or even completely nullify the dead zone, but without any bending jig (it was done freehand) this was just a fiddledy-amateurish trick best avoided, all they had to do was use an oversize actuator. This tradition stemmed from using leafswitches of low quality that needed constant tweaking (sometimes every day after prolonged use in an arcade parlour)

[Abev]

Taeyoung Fanta units seem to finally be stocked over at etokki, mine just shipped today. If you ordered one, watch out for a shipping email I suppose.

[DeAnthrax]

Would anyone here have a green joystick lever for a Taeyoung Fanta? Or is that something that doesn’t actually exist?

[Pobega]

I received my 309MJ today, got the same blue 303 frame and actuator.

Also seems like it’s going to be a pain in the ass to fit into a Madcatz TE round 1.

[LordFu]

@Pobega, you will have to fold down the outside pins to about 45 degrees and be mindful of keeping wires out of the way. I followed this video my first time:

[Pobega]

@Pobega, you will have to fold down the outside pins to about 45 degrees and be mindful of keeping wires out of the way. I followed this video my first time:

https://youtu.be/K76mnQu3aKY

Thanks for the link, I’ll try it after work. I’ve got it opened up in the back of the office right now, haha.

[ProgressiveBalance]

@wazwuz you might want to try moving the switches closer together if you could make that happen. Like the fujin. You could sand down the bottom of the stick(unless you make your own) and eliminate the need for a switch support if you keep the bottom flat.

Also, how would you create this October gate. Will it be using the collar as a gate or underneath like Sanwa?

If you could make gate, could you try out a square gate? I do like to ride square gates when playing 2d games.

[Pobega]

Is there anywhere within the states that sells Crown lever grips and the harder silicon grommets? Shipping from Korea (through Makesticks) is $25 for $10 of stuff

Stick

Grommet

[rbuniao]

Is there anywhere within the states that sells Crown lever grips and the harder silicon grommets? Shipping from Korea (through Makesticks) is $25 for $10 of stuff

Kinda wish eTokki can sell some of the Crown products since it costs a little over $10 to ship a Taeyong Fanta with the cheapest shipping option.

[platynumx]

My suggestions for improving the golden fanta as follows(probably unrealistic lol)

1.Design a new insert that holds the stick in the grommet,possibly made of metal since plastic can flex a tad.Integrete a groove for a spring like crown 309helpme has(IDK if other crowns are like this. Only crown model I own) to help return to neutral faster.
2. If a spring was integrated a new top body portion would have to be made to hold the spring in the collar.
3. New bottom housing. Completely flat and smooth on bottom. Same molding as fanta on the inside for grommets. Recessed holes for the nuts that secure the top body screws like on a crown 309helpme.screws that don’t extend past the nut. Then a kind of plate system that could hold various gate(stock or otherwise) styles that gets secured by switch screws. Plates could also have the switch support like on a crown(outer edges on opposite corners of switch) .if this was done I don’t believe the switch support acrylic would be necessary.

Then if all that was done score a source for some switches,use your existing grommets and shafts and move golden fanta from a mod to a standalone customizable stick.

Just my 2 cents…

[wazwuz]

@wazwuz you might want to try moving the switches closer together if you could make that happen. Like the fujin. You could sand down the bottom of the stick(unless you make your own) and eliminate the need for a switch support if you keep the bottom flat.

Also, how would you create this October gate. Will it be using the collar as a gate or underneath like Sanwa?

If you could make gate, could you try out a square gate? I do like to ride square gates when playing 2d games.

Fanta stick use collar for its gate and I will keep it as it is, so we can still use modded shaft for adjusting throw distance. My idea is by adding some kind of washer on the collar that will make it as “gate”. and it will have 3 variant: octa, square and round. I will use PTFE material for the gate, since PTFE also have self lubrication properties which make the friction between shaft and collar smoother. And I have idea on how it will installed. I will make the prototype next weekend and show you the Idea.

[ProgressiveBalance]

@wazwuz, to be honest most people who use k sticks probably dont ride the gate and probably wont even need to use their gate. i also believe that the placement of the switches also affects the gate that you are using. for instance, these images would have an even smaler dead zone and likely a larger throw if the gate stays the same. It will be interesting to try out though

In the following images, the shape represents the restrictor gate, the thick lines represent engage boundaries, and the thin lines represent equal division along the edges of the gate (which also divide area equally, even on the square). Simple joysticks use four switches arranged in a square, so there are four engage boundaries arranged in a square. The center area is the deadzone, the areas bordering it are single-direction (primary) engage zones, and the remaining are double-direction (diagonal) engage zones. Using a bit of math, percentages are labeled showing what fraction of the total area is filled by each engage zone.

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/restrictors/circle_gate.png

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/restrictors/octagon_gate.png

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/restrictors/square_gate2.png

Images: Circular restrictor with the throw areas distributed equally (45 degrees); Octagonal restrictor with the throw areas also distributed equally; Square restrictor with the engage zones distributed equally

There are three main choices for restrictor shapes in 8-way play: circular, octagonal, and square. With both circular and octagonal restrictors, the spacing of the engages is usually based toward equal spacing along the restrictor (the throw areas). With square restrictors, the spacing of the engages is usually based toward equal neutral and engage zone sizes (a nine square grid of equal sizes). Note, however, that most joysticks are not precise to these goals.

It can be difficult to balance the size of each direction’s throw edge with the size of each direction’s engage zone when eight directions are created using only four switches. With a circular or octagonal gate, you can easily divide the throws equally, but the engage zones for diagonals are going to suffer. With a square gate, you can easily divide the engage zones equally, but the throws are going to be twice as long on the diagonals.

Even modifying the engage distances to give better throw or engage zone sizes can make problems. If you try to give bigger engage zones to the diagonals, the deadzone will shrink and cause new problems. If you try to give more throw size to a certain direction, other engage zones are going to shrink.

But the square gate has some advantages. It is not difficult to hit the primary directions (up, down, left, and right) as they compose all the borders around the deadzone, and the diagonal directions are easy to hit because they have large throw sizes. While on circle and octagon restrictors, it is a compounding challenge to hit the diagonals when they have no edges on the deadzone, small engage zone sizes, and only an equally-sized region of throw. The square gate assists in finding the diagonals more easily and accurately, while single directions are easy enough because they surround the deadzone.

There is a contradiction to having a square set of switches with a circular restriction in engaging them. The glory of the square gate is the balance of equally-sized engage zones with the equally-sized combined edges of the deadzone and throws for each direction. The square gate best-accommodates the diagonals. This is why high-quality parts manufacturers generally stock their joysticks with square gates.

For circular and octagonal gates, medium to far throw distances are necessary so that the diagonals can be located easily. These gates are usually manufactured to have these larger throw distances.

The best use of circular and octagonal gates is for play with the stick constantly along the edges or with sparsely needed diagonal movement. If you do not tend to hold your joystick at the edges all the time, the square should be better for you.

Transitioning to a square gate can take a little time and practice. You should try to understand the structure and goals of the square, and learn to use a gentle touch. The ability to spin the joystick around all directions using a square gate can be just as easily done as on a circle.

[ProgressiveBalance]

Another question guys, do any of you know if it will be worth using a 36mm drill instead of 35mm? would I have to use any kind of sandpaper after the hole is cut? I was also planning on using the bare panel before I purchase the 35mm plexi, do any of you know what is the best sandpaper to use on the bare panel as i dont like the feel of it know and need to remove some glue residue from it.

[Darksakul]

Another question guys, do any of you know if it will be worth using a 36mm drill instead of 35mm? would I have to use any kind of sandpaper after the hole is cut? I was also planning on using the bare panel before I purchase the 35mm plexi, do any of you know what is the best sandpaper to use on the bare panel as i dont like the feel of it know and need to remove some glue residue from it.

If you need a 35mm hole go for the 35mm bit.
If anything its almost better to go a step smaller than a step bigger, you can file/sand a hole bigger if needed. As you can’t make the hole smaller again.

As for sandpaper, depends what your working on. Plexy (edges only) use the same stuff as wood, start with 100/120 and then move to 300 for a nice finish
If you are cleaning a metal panel, depends on what you are trying to do, steel wool or a scotch brite pad would be a better choice over sandpaper