@rh92, Will the Fujin V2 be restocked soon? I don’t think it will but i’m not sure.
On the picture that Wazwuz posted, we can see clearly the “abbreviated” ref code written by hand by someone from IST solutions. It says “309M” and it is collarless 309Helpme (NOT what he ordered by the way).
I sincerely think Samducksa has a few problems with their own codes. As for arcadeworlduk, some info is based on rumors, but the ref codes are probably the refs communicated --at the time-- by Crown, it seems they changed since the introduction of the Helpme sig lever and the new short MJ collar . It is making things difficult for retailers and clients equally imho.
Notice how western stores have very long ref codes (webstores such as FA, PAS, etc) while native stores such as IST/Makestick have short codes and simply resort to options that one can tick in boxes on the website, to make things simpler (it is already complicated to order directly from Korea sometimes, so less hassle with simpler codes)
@Pobega
As @Antonio-o-o suggested, switches could equally be faulty. It’s very easy to check even if you don’t have extra switches, just remove them and then see if you have the same isolated “weaker” cardinal direction.
Myungshin are known to have poorly molded parts sometimes which results in offcenter pivot parts (gromemt, spool…), even shafts happened to be slightly crooked in the past .
The subject has often been here to discuss grommet type and hardness (along with % hardness variance ) but switches have actuation force tolerances too and some units go beyond quality control with inadequate actuation specs (it’s rare with brands such as panasonic , cherry and omron though).
If the grommet is faulty there is even the possibility of an internal air bubble or a poor mix/uneven cure temp while molding(or 20 other easons, Wazwuz could talk about those factors) , the bubble is easy to check if it is the case , unfortunately you would need to get an exacto and destroy the rubber part to see.
Complain to the store who sold it and get a new pivot part, spool included to be extra sure. It’s cool to talk about it, but you need a new part right now.
Unfortunately they don’t actually carry new parts, so it’s gonna have to be a mix’n’match from the two Myoungshin Fantas I have in front of me. I’m going to try looking at the switches tonight. And I’d rather not wait on an order from Paradise Arcade when my stick is sitting unused under my desk.
Funny enough, the one I opened up to find the grommet issue feels like it takes a lot more force than previously – so I may end up returning the exchange Fanta, hah.
send DHL an message on Twitter. Its like @DHLUSHelp. You should be able to find it by starting to type that in, make sure it’s the US branch. They should be able to help you.
Is it possible to skip a disconnect in a daisy chain & still have a connection going through the wire past the skipped point? Ex., I’m trying to just use a 4-button layout in my IST case Korean stick, though I don’t want to lose access to a corner button and I doubt I could stretch the daisy chain without skipping disconnect terminals.
@wazwuz So you asked for a mini review on the silicon grommet included in the Golden Fanta Mod. Well here’s as mini as it gets!
So I installed the shaft that’s kind of a duplicate of the Fanta shaft with the fat middle, the golden actuator, and I decided to put a ball top on my shaft because I have stubby hands and it’s easier to do Korean backdash especially on one player side with ball top for me. First I tried the green grommet with a battop (which was ok), then the light blue with the ball top and it was way too stiff for me. Keep in mind I’m using Panasonic switches as well. Anyway I decided to try the clear silicon grommet and it feels great! I like the looseness of the stick but it still returns to neutral like a champ. My biggest problem in Tekken, using Korean sticks, was that it always felt like I was fighting the stick to get a forward dash to come out. Turns out it was how stiff the grommets I was using were. With this silicon grommet, I can move with ease and connect combos that I was having a hard time getting to link. Anyway I highly recommend this grommet if anything I’ve said sounds like you. My biggest concern now is getting another one when this one burns out (Hopefully years from now). Thanks for reading!
Also, my second set of 8 Crown SDB 201 buttons came in today. Put it in my second stick with the Crown 309 HelpMe lever. Guys these buttons are amazing, you HAVE to try them to see for yourself. I got the two top red and two bottom yellow like I remember the old Tekken cabs used to have back in the day.
The red battop 309 HelpMe lever is back in stock at FocusAttack. Grab one now! Just got the email saying they are in. They only have 5!!
https://www.focusattack.com/crown-cwl-309helpme-k-jms-st35-joystick-clear-red/
Nice heads up varmintbaby.
Ordered one just to pull switches off for my fanta. Now if that golden fanta kit would show up…
Good to know that clear 35 working well, at least for some person preference. Myself enjoying green, clear is too soft for me. this is where the golden mod shine, it let you make custom Fanta thats work the most for you.
So what actuator and shaft size you are using?
Keep in mind that golden mod also compatible with stock parts, so you can have more combination to try.
Yeah, it’s no problem. Think of the ground wire like a drain pipe for the current.
I want to confirm that Golden Fanta components in fact do work on a Taeyoung lever. The Taeyoung has been my daily driver for years, though consisting of a few mods & component swaps.
The ID of the ASI actuators are actually of a smaller ID than that of a stock Taeyoung (or even stock Myoungshin) actuator, so the bronze actuators do not slide on easily (or at all really). What you can do is to apply a thin layer of liquid lubricant to the lathed end of the lever (I used bike chain lube), & then install the actuator. One should ideally use a rubber mallet to force it in, but I used a wooden work-bench to hammer it on. The technique worked well & I didn’t need much force or many attempts. The result is an actuator that fits more securely on the T lever than it ever would or could on a M lever, even stock actuators. After this technique, the actuators come off & slightly more easily.
I did notice that there were minuscule metal shavings within the actuator, whether this was the steel of the lever or the bronze of the actuator being planed off, I couldn’t say for sure. I’m going to guess it was the bronze (as it’s softer than stainless). So I’ll leave that caveat to anyone who is looking to attempt this mod.
@wazwuz
I haven’t yet tested any of the components yet, but will share my findings when I do.
I was recently experimenting with mixing parts again. Used the Golden Fanta Green Game Land shaft and actuator combo with the Fujin V2’s bottom end.
After looking at it carefully, the switches for the Fujin V2 are a bit closer to the middle. This mixing combo actually makes the Green set work a lot better. Lots more corner coverage while still providing a larger throw!
@The Phantomnaut
I thought the Green Game Land shaft was 7mm? Don’t the ASI shafts only go as small in OD as 8mm?
Are in fact the switches on the Fujin v2 mounted closer than the stock Myoungshin? I’ve heard conflicting claims here. I’ve heard that they were more closely mounted, but also that they were identical to stock. What’s the real answer?
I can tell you for a fact that the Taeyoung microswitch placement is in fact clustered closer together than the Myoungshin; it’s why I favor the Taeyoung.
The first pressing had the 7mm shaft with the 14.5mm actuator. Also yes they are definitely closer. Using the Airbag and normal Myoungshin bottoms, the switches are slightly farther apart. When I get my Taeyoung lever, I will toy with it.
@“The Phantomnaut”, could you try out some more combinations with the fujin lever? I might be usefulto see how the placement of the switches affects the overall performance with the Golden Fanta Kit. It just sucks that we can no longer purchase the Fujin V2 lever or the Golden Fanta parts necessary for the mod. If anything, we need to look into doing something similar to the Fujin whereby there is a very sturdy switch support as well as improved placement of those switches.(i’m not a fan of how either the airbag support looks, nor the Golden Fanta plexi) Combining that with the Golden Fanta parts will probably make the best and most customizable Korean stick made. I just hope we could get people such as Saint and JDCR involved! They might be able to provide useful information. =)
Well you could attempt this mod I completed a few years back, if you’re looking for the ultimate in microswitch support, no matter which Korean lever:
It merely a K stick mounting plate with the 4 corners sawed off. With the four m4 bolts threaded through the top & bottom mounting plates, sandwiching it all together, they’re not moving anywhere.
Does anyone know how much it cost to ship from Makestick.com to US? is it a flat fee?
@wazwuz Are you going to be able to replicate the grommets for the 309mj out of silicone?
@Antonio-o-o How did you get a white bat-top? I saw this picture a while back but i thought it was an earlier Fujin lever or something from Green Arcade.
I had the exact some problem with my M.Fanta Lever, it was the forward input that took no force to actuate, but my friend who ordered his M.Fanta say that all his side were even, so I’m guessing we just have bad luck.