does the conventional bottom change the performance at all? and what the difference in having an heaver bottom? is that like having a tight or loose spring?
Out of curiosityā¦ Does anyone here have a red Taeyong Fanta theyād be willing to part with? I know its a long shotā¦but I have to ask lol.
Like the 303ās bottom end looks like itās closer to the actuator whe the 307 is slightly father off. What I meant by those is that you might have to travel more to activate a switch.
As for tension a combination of the grommet and the switches do affect a majority of the tension.
As a side note, I got the CWL-307ST and added the silicone grommet to my hybrid 303/307 mod. Being new does make it heavier to move around. When trying wave dash and electric practice in Tekken, I saw that I wasnāt performing down diagonals during wave dashes consistently. It was more or less due to the Gersung switches not cooperating. I had spare discontinued Starion switches and found the result to be better yet still wasnāt consistent. Then I added Matsushita switches and it worked well. Maybe when the silicone ages, I can readd the Gersungs.
So I ended up picking up a Japanese mount 307ST on a whim during EVO, since I liked how it felt much better than the JLF or American Sticks. My only issue with it though is Iām not the biggest fan of the gloss battop, and would like to switch it out for one of the matte finished Sanwa Battops. Does the 303 conversion shaft work with the 307? Also, does the conversion shaft use Sanwa dustwashers?
Yes the conversion shaft should fit with the 307. I have one and it fits. As for dustcovers, it will fit as well
THIS was actually my problem. the angles where lost to me also. Thanks for this!
do you think that a larger actuator would help with the angle
Itās possible. I would consider microswitch engage too. I was using two Gersung microswitch types. Both had early and late engage respectively. Once it went from diagonals to a single direction, the late switch was prone to disengaging quickly and vice versa. Depending on your hand movement, it might or might not be prevalent.
On a side note, Magiclab, another Korean arcade stick company is selling PS4 sticks for a decent price. The 130,000 won model has the 8 minute timeout issue found in products like the PS360+ while the 190,000 model has a Dual Shock 4 padhack. The body is all metal with powder coating similar to Jasenās Customsā Panzer Korean edition.
I have older PS3 Saulabi 4K. And i found that even S4K with stock factory stick and buttons is much better for me then latest Mad Catz Fightstick Pro with full sanwa. I think PCB gives a lot, couse i feel input lag with my Mad Catz. S4K is much easier for combos and online, no interrupts and etc. Stock saulabi ~28mm buttons its much accurate for me then 30mm sanwa (or maybe its just PCB circumstance). And i found that sitck without restrictor feels better for my bigger handsā¦
I missing more infos about input lags. Found that same stick with switching mode vs PS3/PS4 or Xbox have different input lags on each mode.
Sorry for my english language skills ^^
im interested in trying a crown 303fk, but i much prefer the matte sanwa battop. does the converter kit just allow different tops to be added, or does it alter any of the other innards? and if not, does it allow sanwa style dustwashers and shaft covers too or no?
Conversion shaft allows for balltops and sanwa bat tops but you will need the adapter except for the new clear bat topsā¦and you can use regular dust washers as well. It doesnāt alter the innards since its just a shaft.
awesome. will probably pick one up in the near future then. thanks
Iām starting to think that the wobbling has nothing to do with the actuator or the spring. I was playing with my friends myoungshin fanta at a session, and it feels much āsmootherā than the 303FK (even with all my mods).
All the myoungshin fantas Iāve seen have a actuator without gaps around it and the microswitches. The myoungshin seems to have a very smooth and free moving deadzone. It felt like I didnāt have much resistence until I activated a microswitch. However, it hit the diagonals about the same compared to my actuator mod.
When I remove the tape from my actuator, the crown wobblesā¦but in a different fashion from the myoungshin. It wobbles because itās bouncing in the space between the actuator and the microswitches. Whereas the myoungshin seems to wobble in the dead zone of the microswitches. If the actuator is in direct contact with the microswitches, I donāt know why it would have such a big/free moving deadzone. The crown on the other hand is still stiff in this sense. It wants to center faster than the myoungshin (notice I said the center, not necessarily the neutral input). The spring doesnāt seem to effect the stick that much either.
I wonder what type of microswitches are in the myoungshin fanta. This could be the cause of the wobblingā¦as well as the grommet and housing design.
Iāll be able to dive deeper into this when Iām able to purchase a myoungshin, but for nowā¦Iām just gonna keep trying to find ways to improve the crown 303fk (or rather make it feel more like a myoungshin).
While not really new but apparently Crown was working on an experimental lever last year.
From the pics, it looks like they were aiming for a newer design. Has stuff like a custom shaft capable of working with Japanese tops and a bottom end that can work with multiple microswitches. The actuator looks Sanwa-like as well.
I donāt know if its ever coming out but I love that transparent top.
Nice find!
And yeah I want to get one of those clear battops so bad.
I like that frosted look a lot more than Sanwaās kinda recent clear bat.
Hey guys,
Since the Crown 307 ST is currently being sold on FA, I was wondering if any you guys purchased one and wanted to do some testing.
Even though I have a myoungshin now, Iād still like to know how the silicone grommet performs.
I have the Korean mounted one and its very similar to the myoungshinā¦the actuator is larger but Iām able to hit diagonals easily ā¦itto me it feels the same except the clicking of switches is louderā¦
I also have the Korean mount version and I donāt like it at all except for the silicone grommet. The large actuator with the more sensitive Matsushita switches donāt work well together. I inserted the grommet to my Gersung-equipped regular 307 and my 303/307 hybrid; they faired much better.
Because of switches and actuator, I had a lot of trouble returning to neutral. Almost every crouch dash I try to input didnāt register a neutral unlike my other Korean levers. The regular 307 with the silicone was much more consistent.
I wouldnāt be surprised if the 309 would act as a more capable replacement.
Iām sorry, but did you misspeak there? Do you instead mean latex & not silicon? As far as I knew, the stock grommet of the standard 307 is latex, is it not?