I just bumped into this video. I wonder what this is. Maybe a new Crown?
^^ thereās a blog post linked there:
looks like its still under testingā¦ but the specs are interesting
http://i.imgur.com/PAiDunS.jpg
the microswitches are 400gf! and uses a different material actuator. more rubber tension too apparently.
Iāve got quite a bit of testing done with all the mods done to my Crown 303FK.
As far as the Arcade Stick Indonesia mods, they are great. The added tension brings the stick to neutral faster as everyone says. The diagonals are easier to hit spot on (solely DF, UB ect), but I found the qcf and qcb motions harder to execute on them than with the stock microswitches. Since youāre using a stick with higher tension, you have to use more force to go all the way to the diagonalā¦and for me, the dead zone was only a tiny bit smaller than stock parts. However, though the diagonals took a little bit of adjusting for me, it feels a lot better.
Now, the most interesting thing Iāve noticed is the actuator on k sticks. I see a lot of mods that use a metal or silicone actuator. Also, the new Crown 307 has a bigger actuator. Altough I can see the metal actuator some what effecting the stick if it is a heavy metal, I think that actuator mods are about size rather than material (I donāt own any so please inform me on this). Iāve tested a lot of different materials wrapped around the actuator.
So far:
Electrical Tape
Clear Scotch Tape
Adhesive Tape (Bandage Tape)
Rubber (taken off of a pen and stretched over the actuator)
More than anything, Iāve found that size of the actuator is most crucial when trying to achieve a good feel. There is a reason why a lot of actuator mods have been said to be āstickyāā¦this is because the actuator is effecting the dead zone of the microswitches.
There is a point in a microswitch were the switch moves, but doesnāt activate (I could be wrong). Iāll make sure to make a video if anyone is interested in any of the actuator mods, but here are some quick images:
From this and testing Iāve concluded a few things. Firstly, an actuator that leaves space between itself and the metal part of the switch creates a big dead zone (bad, at least for me).
Here is what most people do when they make a actuator mod (too large):
Secondly, the actuator stays within the dead zone of the microswitch after I tapped a F input. This not only will lead to unwanted inputs, but it is the reason for the āstickyā feeling.
My goal was to create a mod that added just enough surface area to fill the gaps (depending on your preferenceā¦you donāt even need to fill the gaps in all the way to feel a difference), but not interact with the dead zone of the microswitches. Also, keep in mind that you want to choose a very thin tape. This allows your additions to be more precise. Hereās what I came up with:
Compare this to the actuator mod posted above:
I hope this was informative. Iād like feedback because everything Iāve said is only based off a weeks testing. Plus, Iām not exactly a stick guruā¦
That is Help Meās new stick! he is sending me one soon, will do a review of it when I get my hands on it.
I really should look into getting a new ASI grommet. If literally everyone else is saying that it feels harder than the stock 303 one, then the one I have that feels softer must be a dud. Thatās a great post on the mods you tried though, LifeisGood. Great write up!
Help Me is working with Crown on the 309? I saw that there is a Help Me version of the CWL-307ST a while back. From what I noticed, it looks like the 309 is what they should have done in a long time. It has the 307ās gate, the CWJ-303Nās bottom end and the actuator of an Airbag lever. Itās like they saw my 303/307 mod and realized that they fucked up. Judging from rough Google Translate reading, the 309 is really good.
At EVO, I got the 307ST. It sorta still has the same issues as the regular 307 such as the Matsushita switches not working well with a big actuator. The silicone tension grommet was what I was really aiming to try. While installing the grommet on my 303/307 hybrid mod, I do notice itās better in neutral returning than the usual rubber. Even if itās new, hopefully the silicone stays pretty tight for a while after heavy use.
I also bought the CWB-207 buttons. So far I am really impressed with Crownās new buttons. They certainly were trying to copy Green Game Landās custom buttons. While the 207s are not the same, they have a click in them. From my experience trying out Ninās stick at EVO 2012 and KOFTEKKENās stick at Strongstyle, Greenās button plunger caps have a tendency to go under the rim, the 207s donāt do that but thatās ok. It doesnāt travel as much as other Crown buttons so be careful! Despite the 207s being made for 28mm holes, I was able to install it on a Razer Atroxās 30mm holes. I donāt even have the tightener that was supposed to come with it and itās sitting tight without moving at all.
I will try to get pics from my recent Korean parts purchases ASAP!
^^who sells those new crown buttons?
I got mine when Paradise Arcade Shop was at EVO. They should have em online when they are set stateside.
^^also not sure what you mean by Green Game Landās buttonsā¦ how are they special compared to the older crown buttons?
also to those who also use the myoungshin fanta, how wobbly is your lever on neutral? I know its part of ābreaking inā the lever, but iām not sure if this looseness of the lever in neutral is natural in all myoungshin fantas.
There is supposed to be this neutral zone in Korean sticks, its why some people sought after them.
Tekken players especially likes this as you can shift into neutral without hitting dead center to pull off execution faster.
Greenās buttons are their own tech iirc. Upon further inspection in person, the buttonās cap and rim are different from Crownās buttons. While the 203s have a click of sorts, Greenās buttons are much more prevalent when pressed. I did mention earlier that they sorta dig to the point the cap is under the rim.
Also I heard itās a sort of pain to get any parts from Green because they donāt want them out in the public.
Kkolding probably can vouch for it since he has em.
As for the Fanta, I have a barely used one which was pretty tight. I swapped the Gersung switches with Matsushitas and replace the default actuator with a CWJ-303 one. The change did make it noticeably wobbly but still perform very well.
im talking more about how the lever/shaft sits in general, specifically in myoungshins, the crowns seem to have a spring in them which prevents this. I donāt mean the engage, or āneutral zoneā (those have been reiterated many times already), i just mean physically how the lever sits.
For example, like when you have it installed in stick, just lift the body shake it, the lever wiggles freely, loosely, but it doesnāt engage or anythingā¦ i guess its just generally how these sticks are. and yes performance doesnāt get affectedā¦ I have a 303 and like I said, the spring sorta prevents this thing:
here i made a vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2asl4mly9eg
making my hand vibrate so you see what I mean.
im mainly just wondering if this is normal over time for you guys with myoungshin fantas.
i posted this question in another thread i guess i posted it in the wrong one but can i fit a fanta in the new ps4 TE stick from MCZ? and if it doesnāt Can i but a MCZ crown 303 and use the top to replace my fanta housing so it fits in a TE stick?
Fanta canāt fit into a TE with out modification to the TE.
Now there are crown sticks that do fit, its all detailed on the 1st page of this thread.
@hibachifinal Thatās about as wobbly as my Fanta is/was. Iāve had mine and used it almost daily for six months or so and it remains similarly wobbly. I currently have it inside of a stick, so I canāt make a video demonstrating it, but that seems to be pretty standard. Iāve only had experience with just this Myoungshin Fanta that I own, and one other, but they both seem similarly wobbly to the one in your video.
I think itās just a trait of the lever.
I get what you mean. A couple of my Fantas had that overtime. The mod I installed on my slightly new Fanta just makes it very wobbly because of the space around the actuator and microswitches.
So having a little space around the actuator and the microswitches a good or a bad thing? Or is it just preference? It seems that there is a perfect sized actuator for each particular stick since they are all different. Like I said before, all the myoungshin fanta sticks have this sort of thing going on:
And here is my stock crown:
I just donāt know what is best (because I havenāt played on a myoungshin in two years), can you k stick masters help me out?
Personally space between the switches is more of a preference. I always seen Fantas from videos with the wobbling and I wanted to sort of have em on mine while still performing well.
Sort of tangent incoming
Most Fantas from Myoungshin are pretty good in staying pretty stable if it has Gersungs. Matsushitas are more sensitive so a large actuator wouldnāt do well because it creates unintentional inputs if you go in hard or flick it.
I like Crownās answer with the CWJ-303 series where its actuator fits well with both types of switches. I even put the discontinued Starion switches and is pretty good.
As long as I can do inputs consistently without unintentional triggers, itās all good if they have gaps or not.
ok so the 303 crown that fits into the TE stick what the difference between that and the 307 that $5 more? also the fanta conversion kit sold on focus attack it comes with micro switches and a rubber āthingā what different about the rubber thing that come in the crowns?
The CWJ-303 is priced less because the 307 is a more recent product. Feature-wise, the 303 uses a more conventional bottom end similar to the Myoungshin Fanta and Taeyoung levers while the 307 uses a different one. While they more or less act the same, the 303 has a small actuator while the 307 uses a larger one. The kit uses different microswitches to compensate for the heavier custom rubber grommet.