I will make a WTT thread later, but ive been playing on my friends stick that has a korean stick in it and i really like it for tekken. THats the only game ive tried it on. Been trying to get by with ls32 for tekken but I want to fit this into one of the t5 cases i have. I have a ls-40 or a ls-40-10 i could trade. both have less than 5 hours on them each. Post here just incase someone tried a kstick and decided it wasnt for them. lol
just adding this link in case you or your friends have access to a drill press so you could make your T5 Korean compliantâŚ
[tekken-5-hrap-korean-modding-tutorial](Tekken 5 Hrap - Korean Modding tutorial
Rygod- Thanks for the link, ive mounted enough ls32/40âs in the t5 case so its pretty straight forward with the exception of the the 35mm hole. Dont feel like buying the right bit so just gonna have them cut it on the cnc machine.
quick question, i want to get a green M.Fanta and was wondering which Jap buttons match the green the best. I prefer seimitsu gns.
There isnât to my knowledgeâŚthe greens are of different shadesâŚthey might come close but donât match exactly.
Does anyone know of how well the Crown 307-FJ handles and compares to a Crown 303-fk?
I just modded my crown 303-FK with the kit from focus attack and the diagonals seem to have gotten better. In some ways, I find it worse to have both the lighter microswitches and harder â60â rubber. The stick feels better with both in (KBD SO much better); However, when ever I try to wavedash (unless Iâm really grinding from D to F) I end up skipping the DF (F N DF).
Iâm going to try the stock crown rubber with the lighter microswitches to see how that performs, but itâs not looking good for this mod if I really have to work to get those diagonals out of a wavedash.
Also, I heard that the crown 307 has a larger actuator. Is there any way for me to mod my existing crown 303-fk actuator?
Thanks
EDIT:
I think I need to just wavedash slower and more carefully. Though, I think I know why it skips the DF so much easier.
Since the stick now reverts back to neutral faster, it has a hard time staying on a microswitch. The added tension from the rubber makes it easier for the lever to retract from the microswitch, so the lever needs more force to stay in contact with both microswitches.
Just curious if anyone knows where I could purchase just the silicone grommet for a Crown Joystick⌠(In my case, a 307)?
Or if thatâs even possible.
I heard that possibly FA is attempting to carry Crownâs 307 âSTâ version.
But donât really hear about possibilities of different grommets (like the Korean testers with â50A, 55A, 60Aâ silicone).
Apologies, If this sounds like a Noob question.
Anyone know where I can order a CWL-307FK-JMS in time for evo?
I believe Paradise Arcade will have the new Crownâs at Evo for sale.
I might have mentioned it on the Airbag thread or this one but I was not very fond of the Airbag lever provided by IST. It was more or less a Myoungshin Fanta lever with Matsushita switches and a bottom metal plate. Everything else was stock. The actuator and the switches didnât fare well together because they create accidental inputs.
To compensate for it, I replaced the actuator with the Crown CWJ-303 actuator and I was able to perform inputs dramatically better. I was able to perform wavedashes consistently and never had any input errors in the process. The 303 actuator insert hole is much bigger so it was able to fit the Myoungshinâs shaft with no problems.
The CWL-307, at least the full fledged Korean version, has a narrower gate which helps but I will add that the bottom end also adds to it. I was not a big fan of the Matsushita switches being too sensitive especially when the 307 has a bigger actuator. Gersung switches help. I find the Korean and Japanese mounts of the 307 to be playable but not as optimal as I wanted it to be. I have to be more careful when wavedashing or else I have an accidental error.
Thanks, Iâll probably end up giving the crown 307 a try.
Also, Iâve read a lot of talk about how the actuator on the crown 303-FK is too smallâŚor at least smaller than a myoungshin fanta. Is there any good way to mod a actuator? The only thing I can think of is tape and I donât think that will last more than 10 Mins of tekken movement lol.
EDIT:
Maybe something like a heat shrink tubing might work to add a couple millimeters?
As of right now, the scotch tape is actually holding up very well. The small amount Iâve added has actually helped the stick. I havenât been playing for more than 10 mins, but Iâm sure I can find better materials to increase the actuator 1-2mm (I think the 303FK is 15.5 and the myoungshin 16.5 if I remember correctly). I think I might have some luck with this, the diagonals are a lot better! I wonder who else has tried thisâŚ
I played on the crown 303 on Saturday and personally felt little to no difference from the Fanta. Maybe a little stiffer but it responded well.
The CWJ-303 Japanese mounts felt fine even with the stock actuator. Anything bigger wouldnât fit well with Gersung or Matsushita switches in that case. I will say that the Korean mount version has a bigger gate which I donât like though.
Gate doesnât matter.
I donât even look at Korean sticks having gates in the traditional sense, so I just learned not to attempt to ride it.
I will agree that gates donât matter at least for the non-traditional mounts because they are pretty universal.
The CWJ-303N-JMSâs gate diameter is slightly larger than the CWL-307-JMS and even Myoungshin Fanta levers. Itâs enough for me to get thrown off by it. Even trying to revisit it and I always had trouble with inputs because I had to put more give to hit the edges. It didnât fit well with my hands.
When I got my 307 and swapped the 303âs top end, that issue became non existent.
To be fair I was on a tangent from LifeisGoodâs post anyways.
I might still give the 307 a try.
Also, itâs very hard to change the actuator size. Whenever you add something thatâs too thick, the stick automatically becomes mushy/sticky. However, this is mostly due to the material used to add surface area to the actuator (tape works better than rubber). Thatâs why Iâve reduced the tape to a small amount. However, it makes the stick respond a lot better. For this reason, I think itâs still worth it for me to try a 307-FJ.
Your definitely right about changing the size of the actuator. After recording the microswitches while playing, I realized that too big of a actuator doesnât let the stick reach neutral completely. In the sense that whenever you hit a single input (foward for example), the stick is still slightly pushing the microswitchâŚnot enough to activate it though, sort of like the dead zone of the microseitches.
The biggist problem Iâve had with the crown series is that itâs hard to get a full qcf motion without really pushing the stick through the diagonals. However, it could be my bad execution, but I didnât really have this problem playing on J-stick.
Your assessment is right. It just takes an adjustment to find diagonals with a Korean stick. Back when arcades were the places to play, people would come in and tell me after that they had a hard time pulling off motions on Korean parts. Eventually they adapt.
So, anyway we can get the Myoungshin Fanta Airbag easily yet?
Just burned trough my last old ass Myoungshin and I want to replace with this ânew oneâ everyone is talking about.
I didnât like much the Crown 303N I last tried so the Airbags should be the next obvious choice to try.
International shipping is a must btw (Brazil), TY in advance.
Check out Missing Personâs thread Interest Check: Myoungshin Fanta Airbags -- Modified Korean sticks