No. I swapped out the grommets and added comparable information after mentioning it in the first paragraph…
Right, I got that part. I guess just reading “the regular 307”, my take away was that since you were ending your post with your commentary of a stock 307FK-KMS-ST (silicon), with the suggesting that out-of-the-box it didn’t register a neutral like your other K sticks, that then… consequently, now sharing the contrast of a stock 307FK-KMS’ (non silicon) out-of-the-box behavior, which was as you said “much more consistent”.
But I got you… I got you.
Crown’s Japanese like lever called the FLF
http://istmall.co.kr/shop/goods/goods_view.php?goodsno=9992393&category=015
@wazwuz Can you tell me how one would be able to obtain one of these 60A Shore grommets for Myoungshin Fantas–stateside? Additionally I just recently became aware that you were testing silicon grommets for Myoungshin levers as well. I’d be interested in picking up the pair. And out of curiosity, have you ever tested the hardness of a Taeyoung Fanta grommet?
Thanks
If anyone wants to save a few dollars, we were able to swing some good pricing on the 307’s
http://goo.gl/S9y38I
We also have the Korean mounts
I figured I’d share my attempt at creating my own Fujin v1 Fanta with the fine gentlemen in this thread, so here it is:
http://i.imgur.com/HOtldIH.jpg
I looked at the ‘Fujin v1_Airbag’ and thought to myself that instead of going through a (surely) lengthy process & (potentially) expensive process of trying to obtain one, that I could instead recreate it. I mean… it looks pretty rudimentary, doesn’t it? The entire goal of the Fujin–both v1 & v2–is essentially to stop the switches from moving under stress (and yes, they can move quite a bit on the Myoungshin). Yes… of course with the actual Fujin you gain a new (silicon?) grommet and a new actuator, but both those aspects really reduce down to style preference. But an additional plate mounted underneath now assuring that their switches will now never shift during gameplay, therein never increasing the ‘throw’ of their joystick in high stress situations under any conditions, both figuratively and literally? I’m sure everyone playing on a K stick would welcome that . But okay, back on topic: I was first going to take the route of Green Arcade’s mod (see page 1 of this thread) with drilling through a stainless steel washer to secure the switches. The problem I foresaw with that was, that not only would it be a pain in the ass to bore through a stainless steel washer, but having to then line up perfectly with the holes of the K stick mounts sounded daunting. It wasn’t long after that I then soon came up with a solution to this problem: to simply use a Korean mounting plate. And luckily I had a Taeyoung plate to spare for this attempt.
If anyone needs a more detailed account, feel free to ask, but I basically took the rectangular K plate and cut it into a diamond. Why? You ask? It’s because you need to clear the 4 mounting screws of their respective 4 switches, and clipping the 4 corners seemed the path of least resistance. This mod took nothing more than a hand saw, a file, and a small clamp (& well… a hammer for when you inevitably twist up the metal during the clamping/sawing combo). I’ve had the plate finished for a while now but was waiting on a new Myoungshin from Etokki to arrive (which came last week) before getting around to open up my stick & begin the experimentation/testing.
Here’s another show of the same diamond plate under a Taeyoung fitted with custom D2RV-G silent switches; I popped out the rivets to retro fit levers from some Gersung A2s:
http://i.imgur.com/jViqyQH.jpg
And because I had only maybe 3mm of clearance to play with on the underside of my joystick, is the reason you see the head of the M4 bolts thread through the bottom of the lever & not the top. Those M4–45mm in length–are actually threading through the bottom of the lever (though through the top of the diamond plate in reality), through the K lever plastic housing, and up through the top metal mounting plate. And once it’s threaded, all four bolts are secured with washers/locking washers/nuts. So the switches, and entire lever really, is sandwiched in between the top K mounting plate & bottom diamond plate. Here’s a photo of the top of the lever for clarity:
http://i.imgur.com/zJb4RJl.jpg
Rest assured, these switches will NOT move; not any longer. They will now act as cornerstones for the actuator. You will never again expand the full throw of the lever if you’re a player who forcefully rides the ‘gate’, going from defense-to-offense. Everything remains equal at all times. This makes me wonder what kind of impact the true Fujin v1 can have, when it’s simply using the existing microswitch mounts, & presumably screws, to mount the bottom plate. It certainly can’t have the impact that 4 m4 bolts threaded through the entire lever could have now could it?
nice attempt. I will post some pictures of the Fujin in detail later to help you out 
I was hoping someone would carry the Korean collared version. Two questions: will you offer the 307 Silicon but with the Japanese/Panasonic switches instead of the Gersungs? And could you tell if there is any difference between the the white actuator you feature on those 307s versus the black actuator offered from fadc?
Thanks. Yeah, I’m really satisfied with how it turned out. It gets the job done.
Ohh… and though I don’t need photos to make any further mods, as there’s nothing else I could recreate without full on replacing, though I am more than interested in seeing more of your v1 & v2 Fujins–absolutely. Could you give a short breakdown on the differences between the two? You own both the original & it’s revision, no? I’m interested if any of the shafts that came with either v1 or v2 differ in length from the original Myoungshin. What are the grommets composed of? Color of the grommets? What’s different about the actuator other than color on v2? That kind of thing.
Speaking of breakdowns, **here’s a semi brief write-up on the further differences between the Myoungshin & Taeyoung that I learned over the weekend that I do not think are well documented:
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[*] It’s well known that grommets are interchangeable from Myoungshin to Taeyoung & vice versa, but here’s what they don’t tell you: both the grommet and lower half of the level housing that cradles the grommet are larger on the Taeyoung than the Myoungshin’s counterparts. We’re talking a fraction of a mm here; it’s very subtle but surely they’re not identical. So are they in fact interchangeable you still ask? Yes. Though it’s a snug fit when replacing the Myoungshin’s grommet with the Taeyoung, though negligible. However, in the replacing of the Taeyoung grommet with the Myoungshin, this smaller Myoungshin grommet ‘floats’ a bit within the housing. Whether this is negligible or not, at least to me is unknown. I will say that when then reintroducing the upper portion of the housing, it helps in keeping the smaller grommet in place; though not completely, it certainly helps.
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[*] Additionally about the grommets, that although the outer diameter of the plastic centerpiece is identical, the inner diameter of both the Myoungshin & Taeyoung through-holes are not identical. With the former being the smaller & latter being the larger, respectively. You can thread either shaft through either grommet, though over time of repeated attempts of the Taeyoung through a Myoungshin I think will damage the centerpiece of the smaller Myoungshin. And a similar situation here, like the with the grommets, of when threading a M shaft through a T grommet it will ‘swim’ just a bit more here than when it’s placed in it’s appropriate M grommet. Now, will this impact the deadzone by using that combination? I don’t know. Though quite possibly it could. Here’s the good news: you can carefully interchange the plastic centerpiece between the latex grommets.
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[*] Now this point may face contention, but after careful consideration I must say that the interchanging between M & T peartop shaft between M & T housings is in fact negligible. Here’s why I say this: yes it is well known & documented that a T peartop shaft is in fact longer, however the ‘business’ end of the T shaft is identical with that of the M shaft. I’ve read before where people stated that swapping the shafts felt “weird” or “off” but I think that may have been confirmation bias considering the perpetuity of this myth. To be fair, in their defense, they may have been drawing from the fact that the T shaft threaded through a M grommet can be problematic in removing (see above bullet point as to why), and they may have extrapolated this by saying that it caused problems perhaps. But there’s no reason that it should as a joystick isn’t meant to move on a Z-axis, additionally as I stated above, one can interchange the plastic centerpiece with that of the Taeyoung’s to prevent this if they so choose. And also the mm or 2 taller height that the T shaft occupies may feel foreign to those very players. Now again, let me assure you that the lower portion of the T shaft, where the wheels meet the road one might say, are in fact identical. It’s the same form. It’s the same function.
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[*] The Taeyoung actuator is trash… utter utter trash. Don’t turn it upside down to gain the fraction of a mm greater of an outer diameter. Just toss it. Use a Myoungshin actuator or find another suitable replacement. I don’t know how anyone played using that while expecting to execute anything.
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[*] And lastly, that the microswitch spacing on the Taeyoung is indeed ‘tighter’ than the Myoungshin. That is to say that they are more closely spaced on the T than the M. We’re talking no more than a mm here, but it’s certainly noticeable (visually). I’m not saying that I possess the ability to see this discrepancy with the naked eye, but one can notice the more closely orientation of the levers of the switches in relation to one another. This alone has led me to to revisit the Taeyoung. I know I’ve read that the degree activation is identical between the T & M, but wouldn’t this fact suggest otherwise? I guess I’ll learn that answer after some time with the Taeyoung (though with new medium Myoungshin grommet, M shaft, M actuator, silent D2RV-G switches, & custom ‘Fujin’ style sub mounting plate), now that it’s reinstalled into my joystick. I will say that at the moment I’m not running back to replace it with that of the housing of the Myoungshin.
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The 307’s should have the Japanese/Panasonic switches, atleast the one i got has them. i’m no big fan of the 307 Japanese mount tho, Korean edition all the way.
Your on point with the breakdown superb job!
Took a few pictures of the fujin v2 insides.
The lever it self is very tight compared to a normal myoungshin or a airbag.
You’re right, they do. But over at PAS.com amongst the 307s, they offer not only the option to choose between Japanese or Korean mounting style, latex or silicone grommet, but as well they offer the option to choose between Japanese or Korean switches. It’s just unfortunate for me that the combo I’d be interested in (K mount, S grommet, & J switches) isn’t offered through PAS.com… at least not now. Additionally, I absolutely agree.
Thank you thank you.
So, now onto those photos you graciously took. First & foremost… thank you.
Why do you think it’s more resistant than a stock Myoungshin? From looking at the grommet alone, I would think the opposite considering those 4 holes that are bored through the latex (…is it latex?). Because not only do they appear to have a larger diameter than it’s stock counterpart, but they’re also bored all the way through on the Fujin’s, whereas the stock grommet has the 4 holes only midway bored.
How does that smaller actuator perform? It’s smaller than stock is it not? Any idea of the gram force of the switches? Do the switches themselves appear to have the identical orientation/spacing as stock or does the plate change this?
Is there any way someone not living in Korea can obtain one of these?
The rubber it self is actually a medium rubber, but feels softer then a Medium, but is not as soft as a soft rubber(hope that makes sense) The lever holder (white middle piece) makes the lever, fit in very tight so it doesn’t wobble around like it does with the normal black middle piece.
I measured the microswitches distances compared to a normal myoungshin fanta and they seem identical. gram force on the switches I’ll test later.
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As of right now he is not selling the stick’s since he is out of stock but I’ll check in if the stick will restock soon.
Actually the battop lever seems bigger then a normal Myoungshin battop lever
I totally get what your’e saying; that’s very interesting. Going back to what I mentioned earlier in the Myoungshin V Taeyoung breakdown, I guess threading a M shaft through a T grommet would be a bad idea. Because by that logic, it does impact the dead zone. On the flip side, I guess threading a T shaft through a M grommet would be ideal? As there is absolutely no floating in that combo.
That white centerpiece on the Fujin appears to have a greater ‘height’ than that of Myoungshins or Taeyoungs. Is that true? It certainly couldn’t hurt to have a greater height to help in taming deflection.
That makes sense; it looks to be. What about the ‘business end’ of the peartop: where it’s further milled. Is that portion longer, shorter, or identical? If I had to guess, it’d be that it’s a mm or two longer to compensate for the bottom mounting place, then pushing the microswitches further south. But then again, it looks to have all the orography on the underneath of the plastic housing dremeled out/off, so maybe the shaft wouldn’t need to compensate?
Well… please let us all know. I’m sure I’m not the only one interested in having one–thanks.
interesting, thanks @kkolding, with this i can probably furbish my own fujin, just need to get metal laser cut, or even cut leftover thick-ish ABS sheets.
the “pivot” (white thing) seems like a snugger fit for the shaft, and clue what its made of?
The hight of the white center piece, from the rubber looks the same, I will try and get some measuring equipment.
The differences between the Airbag and Fujin for me seems only to be to the rubber center piece, and the lever bat top that is bigger. everything else is identical yes even the bottom metal plate.
I will post some more pictures later with the original fanta airbag, since the ISTmall version isn’t the same as the magiclab version.
So what do you suppose is the cause for this lever feeling ‘tighter’ than the Myoungshin, considering the microswitches are nearly identical to the Gersung A2s that are found on the M, and considering that the rubber grommet is slightly softer than the Myoungshin is reason enough to believe the contrary. What’s left really to cause this extra stiffness? I can see the more fitted grommet centerpiece to perhaps ‘sure-up’ the lever to prevent the K stick ‘wobble’ and decrease deflection, but could that minor detail really be cause for the extra stiffness found on the Fujin? I just can’t. What’s your take on this?
I was thinking of getting the new 307 crown model, but I was wondering about also getting the upgrade kit from focusattack with the Gersung microswitches, but would i be able to put in the harder grommet into where the silicone one is?
The reason why it feels tighter, is because the white middle piece is more compact, with the rubber and the lever. This actually makes the Fujin stick go into neutral faster then with a normal myoungshin.
I’m actually not a big fan of it being this tight! after a few hours of playing I feel like I’m performing worse. This is probably just a matter of time, before i get used to it! I have only played with the fujin for about 10 hours total now.
Some of my friends had the Fujin v1 and absolutely love the stick, it just took them a while to get used to it. “Side info” the last local tournament we had here in Scandinavia (Denmark/Sweden) both 1st and 2nd place had this stick, and they never placed top 5 in any tournaments before they got this stick.
Wow, you guys are amazing.
It’s great to see more information on these Korean mods…as well as seeing a home made mod actually being done.
http://i.imgur.com/zJb4RJl.jpg
Since the screw petrudes through the top isn’t it impossible to put it into a case? (Well, maybe with some case mods) I was thinking of getting longer screws and inserting them from the top. I’m definitely going to try some mods on my myoungshin; I have a spare crown mounting plate laying around somewhere. It would probably be hard to put back into my PDP Injustice Stick though.
It’s also interesting to see how the center piece for the rubber is different. I wonder how much clamping down the mucroswitches changes the feel of the lever.
Yes. The crown silicone grommet and rubber one are the same size/fit in the same housing.
It would be interesting to see how that combination feels.