I have used the Happ competition and the LS-32, would the crown square feel similar to a Comp? I am basically looking for something that feels like a comp but can fit in a jap stick. I have been pretty happy with the LS-32, it’s taken a beating in the time I have had it, but nothing can stand up to an old school Happ Comp + Hard spring IMO.
LS-38 from ArcadeShock, also I think someone’s got one up in the Trading Outlet.
Feels similar in resistance to a Suzo/Happ Comp or Red Bottom P360. IMHO
Yea and with the bigger actuator itll be good I think. I dont really want to mod this stick if I get it since theres less replacement parts sold for korean sticks on american sites, but this seems like the one mod that would be good.
On the topic of myoungshin mods,
Is the reinforcement on this air bag mod just a metal plate beneath the microswitches’ screws?
The screws look like the original microswitch screws and are in the same place. If they just put a plate in between the screws and the microswitches (like a washer) how would that reinforce the microswitches?
Maybe I’m getting too far into this, but I know that when you screw in a microswitch on a Fanta it tilts the microswitches (since pressure is only being applied by one screw in a corner). Maybe with the plate there, the microswitches couldn’t tilt when there screwed in; maybe the force from each screw is being spread through a flat plate…holding the microswitches in a flat position.
Just a guess, but if that’s how they did it…It’s even easier than how @Antonio-o-o mounted his Fujin SRK edition.
That’s indeed the only use i can see for this bottom plate since it doesn’t seem to make contact with the actuator.
@LifeisGood_301 the reason for the metal plate is for the switches not to move at all under stress, just like the JLF does.
so like, i tried to mod the myoungshin, mainly because of what kkolding said with the shaft of the Fujin being tighter in the hole of the plastic piece in the rubber grommet, so i put 1 wrap around layer of heatshrink in the part of the shaft that sits on the grommet, make it more snug, it lessened the wobblyness of the shaft on neutral, without (seemingly) affecting the performance… the wobblyness wasn’t an issue for more, but more of the sound it makes cuz of all the loose moving parts, the dustwasher of the myoungshin is really annoying to hear during play.
i also tried something funky, by putting a sanwa spring and spring base beneath a cut down actuator (which i cut from nylon pieces you can buy from a hardware store), make it feel like a crown a little bit, its only a little bit stiffer and even less wobbly.
ill post pics when I can, if anyone is interested, lol
No, it’s not at all impossible fortunately. Korean sticks are traditionally mounted with 2mm-3mm of the collar protruding above the top panel. My Taeyoung is currently resting at a mounting height of 3.5mm above the panel, this is including a 14 gauge steel panel, printed cardstock, & 1/16" plexiglass just beneath that 3.5mm threshold and there is absolutely zero interference with the screws you see pictured above. There’s nothing particularly unique about the mounting style of my stick other than 4 spacers being used to get the correct height, though this is pretty standard fare. This mod–with having the m4 bolts threaded from underneath–will fit into any joystick sans issue. One could choose to thread the bolts from atop the mounting plate, but you then need an additional 7mm or so of clearance from the underside of your lever, a lever that is already takes up quite a bit amount of vertical real estate. So why choose to do that, when you have this auxiliary and unused space already resting just beneath the panel?
Ohh… & about your question on the Fujin v1’s microswitch mounting plate: yes, indeed the bottom plate secures the series of switches to limit movement (or rather prohibit it all together).
On your comment of the microswitches tilting when you screw them down: perhaps you’re not torquing the screw quite enough? I only notice the tilting while en route to completely tightening the screw down firmly. This is simply a thought. shrug But back to the plates… you are right about the Fujin v1’s plate being easier than mine, errr as you amusingly nicknamed “Fujin SRK Edition” (HA), to mount. That is a definite, as you have to tighten the bolts on my mod in the same fashion you’d tighten the skin on a drum, perhaps for obvious reasons. But I will say that I could easily remove the 4 small microswitch screws and those very switches wouldn’t budge from underneath that plate. That’s a testament to just how sedentary those switches now become. Is this mod any more secure than the Fujin v1? Now even though my mod uses 4 additional m4 bolts that the Fujin isn’t using, this is something I couldn’t tell you for sure as I don’t own a v1, but I can confidently say that it is at least as secure as the v1.
@hibachifinal Sure, let’s have those mod pics.
Hey,
I just wanted to confirm/disprove these observations I’ve made about korean joysticks.
Firstly, the collar of the joystick has preference over the bottom gate-like piece.
http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/image5212.gif
Since the diameter of the collar piece is smaller, doesn’t that mean that the bottom piece has no impact on the lever? Also, since it is the top hole that has preference, could it be possible that said hole is at different heights for different mounting styles. Essentially meaning that the lever would be contacted slightly lower or higher by the top piece.
Secondly, can this be attributed to the feeling of the Japanese mounted crown joysticks? I think the diameter of the hole on a 303/307 mounting plate is smaller than the hole on a myoungshin.
I’m still trying to figure out why a Crown joystick feels different than a myoungshin. I’m starting to think it has a lot to do with the housing. Even with actuator, rubber, and micros witch mods my 303FK doesn’t feel as good as a myoungshin imo.
I can assure you the bottom gate/hole has an importance.
Gently ride the gate on your Myoungshin fanta, you should feel the rotation isn’t perfect and falls a little in the corners. This is actually a clever way to make small diagonals easier to hit without impeding comfort much.
Sorry I just looked through the thread and found my answer
i just made custom switches support for fanta (can be use on crown and myungshin).
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/wazwuz/12036892_889818227773754_8546332169823682393_n_zpsmbu6esln.jpg
you can get the free template here:
Thanks so much for this.
Even though it’s great we are starting to look into this, I’m surprised no one has tried making their own airbag mods previously (at least to my knowledge). I’ve always heard of airbags as if they are legend or they are only available to the top Korean players.
Now that people are making the support plate it makes me wonder how much the silicone actuator makes a difference.
agree, first time i see airbag, i wonder what the use of this support, but it all make sense when I took a closer look into fanta switches installment (especially myungshin), because the microswitch is tilting when you fasten up the screw. after see your mod, I release how easy it can be made 
since rubber (elastomer) is my main business, i’m very familiar with silicone rubber.
silicone ruber is very elastic rubber (resilience). it will feel a bit more bouncy compare to common synthetic rubber. fortunately, in crown they have spring which can help to absorb it. harder rubber = less resilience = less bouncy. my suggest is if you want to try silicone, use harder silicone rubber (above 60).
when you mod Fanta using oversized actuator, try to use harder rubber/switch, do not using soft/bouncy rubber, since they will register opposite input when you release the stick in a sudden.
@wazwuz Would arcadestick-indonesia ever consider coming out with an “airbag” mod/kit similar to how you guys put together the Fanta Crown Upgrade Kit?
Yes if we can find a reseller in US.
For fanta crown user, try to use harder rubber and 1mm oversized actuator. This mod works amazing for me. It have sensitivity like jlf, plus faster neutral and fluid movement.
@wazwuz
Silicone grommets for korean sticks with shore A hardness > 60 ?
Samducksa(Crown) released only 55A and 60A silicone grommets for the 307ST joysticks. Nothing more unfortunately.Perhaps there are custom aftermarket upgrades but the only I saw were not for Crown and only in stiffer natural rubber.
The funny thing is vendors claim on their websites ( Fa and PA vendors for example) that there is only one type of 307St silicone grommet . The official Tekken7 cabs have 307ST shore60A grommets while the one sold by FA is tested at 55A and the one sold by PA is not rated.
I wonder if the 60A version is solely reserved for official T7 cab owners or if simply Samducksa is poorly advertising and selling the sticks without giving the vendors any info at all . Did you test personally the hardness of what is available in 307 sticks (natural rubber and silicone) ?
According to tester Hibal in his LATEST review of the 307 silicone grommets, there was an undisclosed critical issue (tear? homogeneity? curing? ) with the pigments in the 55 shore A models, thus Samducksa sent three grommets to the korean testers concerned: two in 55A hardness (one translucid , another opaque white) and one in 60A (opaque white color).
Looks like Samducksa let go of the translucid option, favoring the opaque white version for the 55A for commercial release. 60A was offered to test only in one version anyways (same pigment).
Concerning the softer grommets, when I evoked this problem, some people ( for commercial reasons) on this forum ( not this thread though) made fun of me claiming “soft is a question of feeling” while I maintained that too soft a grommet could lead to several problems , one of them being that deflection was inevitable unless the player has a special technique . Kuenste (another tester) showed this in one video with experimental samducksa silicone grommets of 45a hardness from an initial prototype batch: it wobbled to such a point that the shaft seemed to bounce all over the place if it was released all of a sudden . Hibal confirmed also this and that this grommet was not part of the second batch of protos sent to testers ( only 55 and 60A type was sent) . You too seem to confirm my experience that excessively soft silicones are too “bouncy” as you coined it.
Some people complain about stock grommets (natural rubber, didn’t read anything about silicone ones failing yet, it’s too early) in crown sticks, being torn and or cracked easily after limited use: I wonder if it’s due to poor consistency in the batches coming out of the factory which means there is little quality control, or if simply the rubber used per se is just out of the lowest grade and or poorly processed.
Any clues on the subject, Wazwuz? Are your grommets of the exact same material as fanta or crown or better quality rubber? It seems you only propose non silicone replacements, is that exact?
Another question: did you ever encounter tearing problems with the silicone grommets in the fabled Fanta “airbag” models and if so in which conditions?
The only problem I see with stiffer units is the possibility of cracking, but it’s true that a fast return to neutral is desirable ( as opposed to squishy soft grades). It all depends on what quality of elastomer is chosen and what design is applied.
Personally I think there is a problem with the fact that the korean joystick grommets do not have a central metal fitting as in industrial vibration mounts and also as in the old wico sticks ( but their grommets were too stiff and cracked easily) : wihtout this type of fitting the hole widens and the stick ends up wobbling in neutral position after a while. An interesting fact is that the rare Suzo 500 rubber grommet was similar to korean sticks in that it lacked a central brass fitting in the grommet.
What’s your opinion?
Hello, I made rubber part for a living, so i can made rubber mod with different hardness and material 
(right now i testing silicone 65-70 in my crown fanta)
silicone elastomer have bad properties in cut grow, so when there is small cut it will take no time to be a serious damage. (maybe you can google it for more about silicone elastomer properties)
Natural rubber have properties low resistance to oxidation, so yes it could be cracking/soften (failure) when exposed to oxygen in long period of time. I made my Crown mod from synthetic rubber.
I don’t have 307/ST joysticks so i cant talk much about it.
Btw, my aluminium actuator causing squeaky sound after two days, this is because metal vs metal (actuator vs switch lever), righ now I try use Nylon for my oversized actuator. hope this will works well.
Just wanted to comment - it wouldn’t serve me well to make a claim like this. I checked the product description on my site and mentioned this:
I did my best to avoid making any claims specifying that there was only one silicone rubber type, but what I get from Samducksa is what is made available to me. If other vendors are able to purchase a 60 rating silicone rubber joystick, that would indeed murk up things a bit. The 307 already has over a dozen mount and microswitch configurations, but I wasn’t made aware that they also sold a configuration that had slightly different ratings in silicone rubber. I performed a durometer test with the available instrument that I had. Perhaps @wazwuz could mention if that durometer isn’t suitable for silicone rubber, as he suggested the model durometer that I have.
yes any durometer can rating rubber hardnes, even silicone. as long as it shore A.
to be honest, every durometer is slightly different since they use spring mechanism inside it and deepens on how hard you put pressure on the rubber. we in the rubber industry always give ±5 variation in measuring hardness for elastomer.
at least using durometer u have measurement and can compare it.