Switch support / enclosure with 2 screws for each switch. Really fat shaft … Is that rubber on the outside of it or just a scuffed up plastic?
This looks hella unique.
It’s probably plastic for being a test model.
Are they intending to have a full K-mount variant, or just the “MJ”-style hacked collars? Either way, I’m in to try. Just gotta ask.
Thanks!
then I done it wrong lol, I was confused with kaze setup about different switch (harder/lighter) is on bottom position ( which is up input) or the down direction/input, since I never done accidental up input, so I make the opposite decision. Eventually, I made this “mistake”, what I did is completely opposite what KAZE did. but, I find the opposite KAZE setup is very enjoyable for Golden Fanta ( I will called it Golden setup for now),. and I want to share my accidental finding.
Down is pretty important input for FG so getting down input as easy as possible is important, and inputing down before df or db is became much easier, at least for me. The lighter switch will make sure you will hit d first, and since it was lighter, you still have some momentum to hit df and ending it with f. and I still can hit diagonal accurate enough using this golden setup.
for SFV, I can execute super(double qcf/qcb) quicker using this setup.
short to say, Golden setup will make you focus on forward and back inputs and don’t mind about down input since it was easiest to input. and for up input, nothing change.
I want to know more about this setup from others and have their opinion as feedback, so I have plan to send an omron switch I am using for this setup and 16mm actuator (for free, since I still have budget left from first beta production) to one of the participant and he will distribute it to all other tester. @Call2Arms could you help us distributing it?
FYI: today I made the 15.5 and 15 mm actuator, I will try it using it on 8mm shaft after work. this will decide for Long Throw Setup.
My best bet is that since Infiltration uses his signature lever like the ones pictured on his Razer Panthera, I doubt a normal Korean mount will happen. That said, if the 301’s collars are similar in construction to the 309MJ and even the normal 309, it can be possible to swap them. That’s been the case with most of Crown’s modern levers.
If I like the feel of the 301, I might just put a normal 307 or 309 collar.
What I am not liking is that they both look taller than most Korean levers. I fear that it might not fit on my Makestick Pro.
Does a Fanta just barely fit in the Makestick?
A normal Fanta does fit fine. The Fujin lever doesn’t because the bottom of the shaft somewhat touches the bottom plate. If you try to slightly push the top+shaft downward, it will scratch the plate. That was with the Makestick Pro’s provided plexi spacer. Removing it nullifies the issue but I don’t like the collar being too high for my liking.
Just a newbie question here, but does the Fanta go out of alignment/sensitivity like the spring switch Happs? I noticed the construction of the actuator was very similar
vs the one in an X-arcade - https://shop.xgaming.com/collections/arcade-parts/products/arcade-bundle-1-joysticks-10-buttons
This is what @“The Phantomnaut” was talking about here:http://bbs.ruliweb.com/game/82821/board/read/9413280 Its ugly really IMO. not a fan of a flat bat-top or of a fat plastic shaft. The design differs too much from a conventional K-stick. I only hope it performs well. Interesting that you can choose a gate. I’m a huge fan of square gates.
@wazwuz, you should try a harder up switch as well as a softer down switch. I think your find is very interesting. I also think that if Kaze know what their doing, than there must be some legitimate reason for having a harder up switch.
If this Golden Fanta mod could get its own bat-top, it might as well be its own stick. I think it should be sold with a myoungshin as its own stick rather than a mod. Everything Myoungshin has pretty much been replaced, or been thoroughly improved. Were essentially making our own Kaze.
That is why the Golden Fanta mod has a Plexiglas “switch support”, as well as this new Crown SDL-301 stick. This was briefly discussed a many pages earlier in this thread. The switches aren’t even flat on to plastic on the stick. There almost balanced on there by a screw. I think @kkolding said that when they go out of alignment, they begin to wear down the actuator I think he said, i’m not sure. You might have to go and find it. Are you thinking of buying that stick, @chapel?
As I pointed out in my post above ^^^ the reason for the harder “UP” switch is to prevent accidental jumps and/or deflections to up/up-back/up-forward from holding a hard “full crouch” motion in Tekken.
There are attacks in Tekken that are performed by going into a crouch position and hitting a button immediately following the release from croush (“while standing” or “while rising” moves). Sometimes, a release will result in a deflection of the “up” switch and yield a jumping or other unwanted move. Harder switch prevents that.
And what @wazwuz was talking about a softer down switch. Would this be bad for wave characters because it will be easier to mess up and hit down as well. I hope we can try out all these setups
Yes. I know what he tried, which is why I explained what he did wasn’t the “Kaze” way, but the opposite. He does like his setup, though, so he’s free to use that.
I don’t have a super-soft Omron handy, but I did try Gersung A3s on all directions except for “down”. Didn’t like it. But A3s are significantly stronger than A2s, Matsushita 200grams, and Omrons.
I was trying to add a different perspective on Softer Down Switches. I understood what your saying. Also i thought all Gersungs V1623As were the same. very helpful. The Golden Fanta Mod needs to look at more switches in the same way we have looked at different diameter actuators down to 0.5mm. i Think each switch should be thoroughly picked as they are an important part of each joystick.
Yeah, I agree the switches make a big difference here, as do the grommet tensions.
I typically play on very loose grommets (Makestick’s soft version, ASI’s green version, crown 25A)… or even looser. This disallowed me from even making use of ASI’s large shaft and large actuator. However, stepping up to the dark blue allowed me to use it. Still, fast play on that heavier silicone, even with a shorter throw, would prevent me from playing for hours like I normally do. Some will still prefer it.
All that being said, every single combination has to be tried before you 100% know what’s best. In the end, I think most all high-level players are going to settle on thin / medium shaft and medium actuator.
The short-throw / heavy tension can be marketed toward newer players who aren’t as accurate just yet.
However, if you’re going to make combinations that require a specific type of switch to be decent (very light or very heavy), then you definitely have to take into account your available supply of those switches in order to have a product with long life. If a specific combination requires Matsushita switches to be half-decent, but Matsushita switches become hard to acquire, then probably not the best idea to base a product around them. Gersung A2s are an acceptable replacement, but you get what I’m saying.
I might even try a harder “up” switch out of curiosity. Side steps seem like they would feel different in Tekken, but I’m sure one could adjust.
IMO, the difference the harder “up” makes is really not even noticeable during play… Just an insurance policy against deflections and accidental jumps. I don’t think you’d have any adjustment issues.
I hope people are testing this. There is quite a lot to be figured out. The specific combinations of switches should still be crucial to the mod if we want to make the best stick we can, but I hear what your saying.
I just try put back the 16,5mm stock actuator, and somehow this size still the most comfortable for me, i will try to make the bronze version soon.
And for lighter down switch, it has own trade off actually. Since it is easier to input down, it is not good for movement that need precise diagonal input, like backdashing on sway character (paul, bryan).
I was thinking about making golden fanta as new stick, because I can make sure the mod works well on every stick and test it myself. But this will not cost effective, since I have to import it from korea, then do the mod and send it to US. Not to mention I also have to make the short and long throw version.
I think it would be better to provide more parts options to fanta lovers, and they can experiment finding the best fit for their playstyle.
Wouldn’t it be better to try having lighter switches for the left and right input. And have heavier switches for up and down?
That would have to make Korean Backdashing and wavedashing easier because the heavier microswitches would just swing the actuator toward the lighter microswitches.
Hey guys,
Was looking to get a silent, levered microswitch. What are my options if any. Any recommendations? Obviously they need to fit the bottom of a K-stick. How pricey do theses things get and has anyone tried this already?