Korean arcade parts discussion

You will need Myungshin Fanta. Golden Fanta will be parts only.

I got 2 Crown levers (303, 307) and theyā€™re both cracked on the bottom. Both almost in the same spot. Could be from me when I was first learning. I feel like my crown levers, one would had to put some muscle into movements. Maybe a combination of hard movement over time playing a factor? I use a M.Fanta now and thatā€™s no where near the case for me. A lot more sensitive.

Finally got my golden fanta parts (as well as the 309mjs for my te2 and vewlix)

http://i.imgur.com/M5fSWi4l.jpg

@wazwuz After looking at my new golden Fanta grommets and my other grommets I got from you, I have 40, 45, 50, 55 (latex), 60, 65a tensions. lol itā€™s gonna be a long night.

Great to see it in person. Also the grommets smell really nice; just a side note. :wink:

While I didnā€™t install a grommet yet, I just installed the smallest shaft and actuator. I didnā€™t test it yet but the corner distance with the Panasonic switches is very small. I guess players at Green were good enough to hit corners so a small zone is ok with them.

EDIT: Additional thoughts. I will say that the switch stability plexi is a bit too big. For those who have the Makestick Pro or a TE2 with Jasenā€™s Customā€™s Korean panel installed, the plexi will be hard to use.

2nd EDIT: There is no flathead screw point in the bottom of the shafts. Itā€™s a bit weird to tighten it by hand and something that has good grip than a normal screwdriver.

http://i.imgur.com/aU8L0Df.jpg

The plexi is 5mm thick to ensure could handle the stress. You can try make 3mm plexi using file I attached earlier, hope it can fit inside the case.

You can use plier to grip and hold the buttom part of the shaft and tighten the battop (I always use this method for sanwa :p). I use the buttom part of the shaft for labeling the shaft size.

I havenā€™t had any clearance issues with the stability plate yet (it closed on my te2+ with no issues). The grommet at first was hard to install but after using the original shaft to assist in installation, it was a little easier. As The Phamtomnaut stated, no flathead screwdriver point on the bottom of the shaft but I used pliers to tighten the PAS aluminum battop on the 10mm shaft.

Day zero went with some minor hiccups but nothing major to doubt this product.

Yes, red grommet is a bit challange to install. You can use some silicone grease to help the installation of the grommet. But Never use oil/petrol based lucbricant, it can damage silicones.

@wazwuz I was just thinking that if you made the stability plate out of brass too that it would look kind of amazing and reduce clearance issues.

Is Brass expensive? I was thinking how easy is it to replicate the switch support found in the Green Arcade levers.

Personal opinion thus far:

Prefer the medium shaft and medium actuator. However, I still prefer the feeling of the standard Myoungshin battop over Sanwa. For that reason, last night I settled on Myoungshin battop, medium actuator, loosest silicone.

Green silicone gave similar results to the red silicone available from Makestick, though corners felt less consistent for me with the ASI green. Donā€™t know why.

Will test more soon.

Oh good to know about the TE2. Did misworded it anyways.

Yes brass is expensive material, and bronze even more.
I think AIrbag support is more superior than green lever. Green lever support also thick since it have couple nuts on it.
Couple month ago I did install crown 303FK using 5mm switch support on TE2+ and it can fit/close perfectlly.

small comment during my tests
got to [RED grom/10mm shaft/cones actu] set up and [AM51662C5N] donā€™t have enough force to reset neutral they are too soft and directions got stuck.

Medium actuator is 15,5mm? If so, diagonal zone will be smaller than standart 16,5mm stock actuator, try use cones or 17,5mm actuator, you will hit diagonals easily.
IMO, grommet have nothing to do with inputs.

I also noticed this with the cone actuator. (AM51630C69N)

@wazwuz Sorry to say but my ā€œ14.5?mmā€ actuator has issues with fitting, two of the shafts (the ā€œgreen arcadeā€ one and the other skinny one) wont fully enter the hole, it gets stuck half way. Other than that, I find that the Sky blue grommet is a good replacement for airbag grommet, has more consistent tension and snappier feel.

another comment I have for now are the duswashers your provided, you provided the right hole size for the shaft, but some have that thicker part near the handle threading and the dustwashers cannot enter (just found this oversight kinda funny)

dang really those to? grrr might just put those black tab gersungs back on for now
and yea, also my 17.5 actuator does not fit fully on the 10 and 8mm shaft

mechanically everything feels pretty good so far, just seems the weight on flimsy switches is a thing

Agreed. Iā€™ve been unable to use either the cone or the largest round actuator with either Matsushita switch I have.

How deep it can goes? Also is it the actuator or the shaft problems? I make the shaft and the actuator to have minimal clearance so it will reduce the death zone.
I did test all the sahft using one actuator to see if it fits, Maybe the actuator holes still have some metal scrap left in there.

The duswasher hole should be 1mm oversized. So 7mm shaft should using 8mm dustwasher.

The red grommet should have strong enough tension. I will try this setup when I can find AM51662C5N