Korean arcade parts discussion

Can you daisy chain ground with the 203c buttons? Also I heard it makes a difference which terminal you connect ground and signal to. For whatever reason Etokki, Samducksa, and PAS don’t have any diagram or indication of which is supposed to be which.

Oh nvm the earlier post.

I think the 203C can accept ground from either of the two similarly placed points. As for daisy chaining, as long as you solder the same side for the buttons you should be ok.

For those who used the 203C buttons. Do they have an audible click?

Yeah they click a bit when you hit them like any other button

I mean click as in an audible microswitch click. The 207H has an audible click regardless of how fast or heavy you press it. Pressing the switch without the plunger still has a click. The 203A doesn’t.

hmm…for some reason i got billed twice for my order at makestick.com/us/
anyone other than me has this problem? D:

@desangel : still hasn’t appeared on my bank account (Paypal transactions can take up to a week to appear there with my bank), but the Paypal listing shows I’ve been billed just once, and as expected.

I’d contact Make Stick by mail, if I were you: Rohan was very helpful in correcting the shipping fees bug, so if there’s a billing bug, I guess he’ll take care about it.

It’s round about the same as an MX blue, maybe a little more since the switch is stiffer, but in play the only sound you’re going to hear is the plunger hitting the barrel.
These are the switches used in the 203s https://deskthority.net/wiki/Futaba_clicky_switch

That stem style is unique to those switches, so if you take the plunger out of a 207 and see the same thing, they’re Futabas as well.

Sorry guys, more questions about ordering from makestick.com.

The check out portion is not letting me choose a shipping option due to the Country selection. How were you guys able to resolve this?

Not all countries are supported. You can contact the email on the bottom page which will redirect to Rohan, who has been acting as support, and might be able to help you out.

The Korean store just added the CWL-309M and 303M levers. Can’t wait for them to add them to the international store. Them, the CWB-207H and Makestick Pro itself (including empty cases) would be awesome if they are coming soon.

http://istmall.co.kr/shop/goods/goods_list.php?&category=028

what’s the difference between the helpme 309 and 309m? is the latter meant to between a japanese and korean stick? received my order (309 japanese mount and flf st) from makestick today :slight_smile:

Their new M models were designed as an in-between of the normal neck gate Korean mounts and the Japanese mounts. Obviously the difference is the small neck gate, probably to mirror Korean performance while able to fit on most Japanese arcade sticks.

Maybe it’s a response to inconsistencies of the original style Japanese models.

Hibal’s test doesn’t only mention a shorter neck for the 309M, but also two new silicone grommets with low shore A hardness: 20 and 25. He finds the 20A too flimsy . There’s even a video of them in action . Seems the 35 shore A is the original 309 Helpme grommet.

@MaikuB
youtube user “Camel Kill” compares 309M vs JLF in the same cab in the following vid, check out his channel, he tests the 309M with Tekken, beat’em ups and even a …shoot’em up. When tapped and released, the 309 seems to have a certain amount of “deflection” when re-centering, as opposed to the JLF, due to the 309M soft grommet, which means you need to keep contact with the battop of the new Crown model constantly to avoid this (watch other testers’ vids to compare)
https://youtube.com/watch?v=Kb1Njd7RUoE

@Agieze thanks i’ve actually already seen that one. anyway, pretty happy with my 309 helpme ver though haven’t been exposed to korean sticks much. did have a 307 st before that i put into my VLX for a bit and quite liked but it didn’t the TE2+ cos of the switches. on the other hand, i had issues doing qcf motions consistently with the FLF ST (from 1p side) but qcb was fine. quite strange as i’ve never issues like that on the other sticks though i’d probably get over it if spent more time using it

IMHO shore A 20-40 is low hardness, low hardness rubber can make the stick “bouncing” (as you can see in the video). I have try shore 70 in 303FK for months, and it is perfect. fast neutral, no bouncing shaft/stick, yet not too hard.

WOW very interesting, good job bro.

Finally got em! Will do dissection pics here soon and full review on IPLAYWINNER after EVO.

Now onto the Holy Grail: the Green Arcade modded Myoungshin.

http://i.imgur.com/nEYU3t7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FcLNEcn.jpg

I made an order at the makestick.us store a few days ago but still hasn’t updated from “paid” status, how long did it take for you guys for them to ship and post tracking? just for reference

It took a day to ship after paying it on Thursday. You can always ask. If July 4 wasn’t a holiday or USPS wasn’t stupid enough to ship it from SF to Oakland and back to SF for two days, I would have gotten it on Tuesday or Wednesday.

took about a day for me as well, ordered thursday (sydney time), shipped out next day and got it on monday. didn’t get an email about it being shipped, possibly because i unticked the checkbox around receiving emails (thought that was intended for newsletters etc) so just had to sign in to to check