this is an awesome thread, i’ve been wanting to try out a Korean stick. Seems that theres a LOT of options though. I’m going to pick up a Korean stick but i want to try one out where i dont have to do much modding, just so that i can see if i like how they feel, then fully commit and make the opening larger for the grommet and all that. Anyone have a good starting recommendation? I’ve got a few cases that i can try with: TE2, TE round 2, OG Vewlix, and a VX Kai.
Crown CWJ-303A/FK.
thanks, I will pick one up and give it a try. any word on if these will fit in a TE2 case? the switch part looks beefier than a JLF
I installed one on my XB1 TE2 a while back so you are good.
has anyone tried the Optical Korean Lever that ISTmall had for a hot second? Not sure if I got the last one (laugh sent it) but it was pretty dope. Had an issue with the optics and UP was permanently stuck. Wasn’t rough or shitty with it so I’m not sure how that happened but I was forced to take it out and go back to Myungshin. It was basically an infrared panel screwed down onto a Myungshin right where the microswitches would’ve been. It was good and I performed motions and inputs as I usually had without the noise.
I wonder if anyone could make a facsimile with mine like toodles did with the Spark…
Never tested it ! But from the pics (and the vid on youtube) the IST optical pcb reminds me of the MAS “Opticon” which was also short lived and flawed.
T’was about time for Istmall to chime in! Perhaps they’ll think twice about this policy consisting in restricting k-stick spare parts sales to south Korea, and perhaps they will be willing to deal directly with potential international clients without resorting to useless and costly additional intermediaries
@istmall was last active a couple of hours ago.
Both Saint and Sodam at Final Round Tekken 7 grand finals used a Makestick Pro. It would be good promotion if there was some support outside Korea.
I was sorta bugged by looking at old pics of the Fanta Airbag lever featuring a thinner actuator as well as waiting for the Crown 309 Help Me lever which has a slightly bigger actuator than a CWJ-303 lever. After trying to find as much info as I could, measuring stuff and making guesses, I made 3D printed actuators.
http://i.imgur.com/SVZmnlI.jpg
(Both images: Left is Myoungshin Fanta 15.75mm, Right is Crown 16.5mm)
When I got em, the Myoungshin actuator was sorta tight to fit but worked. The Crown actuator was harder but I used a replacement shaft which had a weird dent that can shave off the excess inside plastic. While I got these to work more or less, I am still gonna do more test prints later on and will post the final versions (along with different sizes) on the 3D Printing thread. The Myoungshin will be live tested at NorCal Regionals.
i juuuuuust got my CWJ-303A/FK from etokki and i…really like it. my first Korean stick and I’m thoroughly impressed. still, it’ll take some getting used to getting those corners. my question though, aside from 3D printing my own (which I’d be all about if i had one) what other options for actuators do i have? I like the stick but theres a really noticeable dead zone.
The only really official option is to get the Crown 309 Helpme Lever. There is a Japanese mounted version (309FJ) coming soon and that actuator is 16.5mm, 1mm more than the CWJ-303. The problem is that it’s hard to get it outside of Korea. Laugh from Etokki will have it on his store in the future but I don’t know if it’s the normal Korean mount or both versions. The CWL-307 isn’t compatible at all due to a different design.
The 3d printed one (16.5mm) I have is intended to be close to that of the 309, specs wise. It doesn’t really have much dead zone so it does return to neutral a bit faster and doesn’t have much wiggle. Since the lever is installed on my Etokki Omni which is PCB-less atm and I have to get ready for NCR, I can’t really test it this weekend.
When I finalize the designs, I will provide the files with 15.75, 16, 16.25 and 16.5mm sizes.
that would be dope, thanks!
Istmall are creating a site for overseas users. Maybe it will take about two months in the month.
So i ended up modding my hrap 4 kai with a Crown CWL-307FJ-JMS-ST Joystick Clear Black. I don’t like it at all. Stiff as hell on the diagonals. I have to hit up back, up forward, etc. so hard that the whole joystick shifts in my lap. Is this a common thing with Crown’s or did I screw something up? I couldn’t use the square gate/balltop it came with nor can I use this one effectively so my HRAP has been collecting dust.
I’ve been considering purchasing an Etokki Korean edition for PS4 or a MadCatz TE2 and taking another crack at modding it with a circular gate/battop. The plus of the Madcatz one is how easy it is to access the parts that need to be switched out. The HRAP one…at least for a beginner was a pain. The etokki one I’m hoping to use right out of the box.
- Any suggestions on how I can make my HRAP stick useable, I’m super disappointed cause it’s a solid stick just the joystick itself isn’t for me.
- Has anyone ever used the Etokki Korean sticks? Are they as stiff as the these crown battops or are they more fluid in movement?
@Pajooh korean joysticks are by design, inherently stiffer/more tension, its one of the defining traits of a korean joystick. can you just swap out your hrap with a different lever (a Sanwa JLF perhaps?)
etokki korean sticks uses a myoungshin fanta lever, different from a crown CWL, but very similar in general feel, it will be stick and diagonals will be tricky to execute at first. because the etokki is full metal, it’s pretty heavy, so it will complement the stiffer korean lever, so it most likey wont lift like your hrap.
Hibachifinal, thanks for the input…main issue is that FocusAttack is sold out of the Sanwa battops 
I could buy the JLF with octagonal gate but I’d still be stuck with a balltop. Does anyone know another reputable parts distributor that is in the US? I’m impatient lol, rather not wait weeks for something I want now. Also, is there any way to remedy the diagonals on the crown battops? Just seems like such a waste to me, I paid 25 bucks for the thing and it’s just blah…
Back from testing the 3D actuators I printed recently.
The 15.75mm actuator for Myoungshin Fanta shafts worked really well with my Fanta Airbag lever. With the Thai switches (Matsushita AM51630C69N), it didn’t struggle with Tekken wavedashing or even simple 2D fighter mobility. It also gives the lever some wiggle when going back to neutral which fortunately doesn’t affect performance. While I didn’t test it on a normal Fanta, it probably might yield decent results. I will work with it later.
I wish I would say the same with the 16.5mm piece for Crown CWJ-303 levers (specifically the bottom piece with the microswitches). Working with both Matsushita and Gersung GSM-V1623A3 switches sets, there were issues when wavedashing consistently especially on the right side. Backdash cancelling in both the easy and hard ways in Tekken felt like a struggle. Also I had accidental jump inputs coming out sporadically in both 2D and 3D fighters. Just based on my setup, 16.5mm might be too big and will see how it would work with 16mm and 15.75mm actuators. 16.25mm might still be a bit much.
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