Korean arcade parts discussion

2nd that 309mj medium collar with 35a grommit/Am5 switches has been my favourite for last month i feel the reduced collar makes it more precise over the helpme also no annoying collar knocks which i hate
second place would be my fujin with 7mm shaft
i wanna try the new dongpal crown hope makestick stocks them soon!

Has anyone here ordered from istmall before? I’m Korean and I know the site is fine but when I try to order a lever using their American website, the payment section is empty and the order just goes through without paying. Are they telling me I have to direct deposit money to their bank account from the US? What the heck I don’t live in Korea how am I supposed to do that

I’m having the same problem

Do 40A silicone grommets exist for Crown 300 series?

I’ve tried 25A, 35A and 45A silicone grommets from FocusAttack. 25A was way too loose and immediately switched out. 35A still made my movement sloppy. 45A is solid, but it’s actually a bit too tough that it makes hitting sudden precise inputs difficult. I’m surprised there was such a jump between 35A & 45A since the difference between 25A & 35A felt fairly subtle. But that’s why I’m looking for a 40A silicone grommet.

I feel like this probably isn’t the case, but could there be a range of error for the hardness in the grommets? And can these silicone grommets be ā€œworn inā€? I’ve only heard people say that about rubber grommets due to their greater likelihood for manufacturing inconsistencies. I doubt this really applies either.

It does break in. When I first used 45g it was stiff as fuck but after a while, I either got used to it or it got loose. Now it’s super smooth

Hmm… well hopefully it did break in. I do need some warm-up before playing matches, having recently made the change from JLF. Hoping it goes beyond that & the grommet itself changes.

I’ve been super bent on getting the right setting after finding something that actually made a big difference for me. I’ve been struggling with the JLF’s huge dead zone & looseness for the longest time, so the change was quite rejuvenating.

Guys, so I got myself a GFM core as well but can only open my stick on Monday after I’m back from a short vacation, where do you put the spring exactly? Are there any photos on how it should look like when installed properly? Thanks

@HFX The ā€œopenā€ part of the bushing core points downward into the body of the stick, the spring goes inside that ā€œopenā€ groove and you stick the shaft through it all.

Hi guys first time posting here. What difference is there when the stick has a spring inside or not? Using a 309 btw

@Wamsalami welcome to the forum. The spring is primarily used to eliminate wobble. Korean joysticks for the most part wobble and Japanese joysticks do not.

@zero_requiem but in terms of inputs will there be any discrepancies?

@Wamsalami it all comes down to personal preference. Some ppl say less wobble gives more precise inputs but I for one find everything easier with a slight wobble.

Hi guys im a Korean tekken user i’m making a lever called ā€œKazi Leverā€

i think it will be finish in Feb or March

when u guys want to get after launch parcel cost would be $25 with 3-4 days

if u guys interest in lever u guys can ask at Twitter @TekkenKazi

Thanks

Would be nice if you can at least tell us the settings for your lever here, and why we should get it.

Here is what he said to me on Twitter:

From what I have noticed, it looks like he using a Crown lever as a base (a 309 in particular). Maybe it will be like SuperHwoarang or Sanjuks where it’s a custom design. The top comes from the Infiltration and Crazy Dongpal levers but we might see a change in the release unit. I think the draw might come from the actuators and the switches which we don’t know what it will use.

As of now, it’s good to see Korean users reach out to us which I hope leads to more people looking to do the same.

Thanks. Speaking of SuperHwoarang & Sanjuk, how are those like? I couldn’t find anything on them.

I am new to Korean sticks, and they are not mainstream, so I don’t know how different they can be. Grommets are pretty basic. Though I suppose that can also be complemented with other factors. Shaft measurements, actuator, switches… How much notable variance do these custom models have from the base model?

After having played on both the 309MJ (modded with 35A grommet) and 309 HelpMe, I find that the HelpMe feels better. Might just be because the HelpMe was newer, but it felt snappier and more precise. Is there an actual difference with regards to throw distance and dead zone, or am I just imagining things?

I have both, and there’s a small difference between the geometry of the two. It’s enough to form a preference for one or the other. I slightly prefer my MJ, but it’s all preference.

So I played with japanese sticks a while back and switched to Hitbox and now I’m really liking my Korean Golden Fanta. I’m having some issues learning to play Sim on it (complex movements). I’m getting better and better, but my question is, to tell if there’s an issue with your microswitches, you would just hold the stick in all 8 directions to see if there’s a ā€œflutterā€ or issue with them right? Like I saw Rip had a bad Sanwa stick and when he held down/right or down/left, it would flutter to left or right without him ever moving the stick out of the diagonal position. As long as my stick holds each position that means the switches are good right? Is there ever an instance where quick movements can make a microswitch not work or is the the test I mentioned always a good barometer? Please ā€œatā€ me in your reply. Thanks in advance for any responses. Thanks!

@VarmintBaby I’m sure @Agieze will answer that question because he’s a g and has vast knowledge about these things. 1 think you can test to see if .187 connectors are loose on switches is holding left/right/up/down for a few seconds to see if it’s double tapping. I noticed it awhile back that when .187 connectors are loose while holding left or right in tekken you will start running out of nowhere. Very irritating and messes up inputs. When this happens I take the rubber end of a screw driver and push down on connectors against something solid. It will tighten the connectors and eliminate the double tap.