Korean arcade parts discussion

[TekkenKazi]

Thanks. Speaking of SuperHwoarang & Sanjuk, how are those like? I couldn’t find anything on them.

I am new to Korean sticks, and they are not mainstream, so I don’t know how different they can be. Grommets are pretty basic. Though I suppose that can also be complemented with other factors. Shaft measurements, actuator, switches… How much notable variance do these custom models have from the base model?

both are korean lever

SuperHwoarang lever is old korean Hwoarang player and he made it all himself

Sanjuks is also a korean lever some lever and stick maker made it very little quantity

[TekkenKazi]

After having played on both the 309MJ (modded with 35A grommet) and 309 HelpMe, I find that the HelpMe feels better. Might just be because the HelpMe was newer, but it felt snappier and more precise. Is there an actual difference with regards to throw distance and dead zone, or am I just imagining things?

actually there are many types of Help Me if you didn’t buy a lever directly to Help Me then in Korea we don’t call that Help Me thats made by Samducksa(Crown)

When you buy directly to Help Me , he adjust switch sensitivity !!

• Help Me 2nd generation use Panasonic switch
  3rd generation use Gersung switch

[TekkenKazi]

So I played with japanese sticks a while back and switched to Hitbox and now I’m really liking my Korean Golden Fanta. I’m having some issues learning to play Sim on it (complex movements). I’m getting better and better, but my question is, to tell if there’s an issue with your microswitches, you would just hold the stick in all 8 directions to see if there’s a “flutter” or issue with them right? Like I saw Rip had a bad Sanwa stick and when he held down/right or down/left, it would flutter to left or right without him ever moving the stick out of the diagonal position. As long as my stick holds each position that means the switches are good right? Is there ever an instance where quick movements can make a microswitch not work or is the the test I mentioned always a good barometer? Please “at” me in your reply. Thanks in advance for any responses. Thanks!

i will use some new switches which will be tested by pro and many Korean tekken user so u don’t have to worry about the poor condition of switches !!

I tried almost all the switches used in korea for lever

it will have best optimization for Tekken

[AznSensation45]

@TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don’t know how good/different kaze v3 is.

[ykd]

@TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don’t know how good/different kaze v3 is.

I suggest you use the search function, and read through the pages here. You will find all that out. Short answer. Kaze is better than stock Fanta /or Crown. But it’s all personal preference. That’s only my opinion. The 309 Helpme has different versions. It’s crowns attempt to make a lever as close to a Fanta as possible, with their parts.
The Fujin is built off a Myoungshin Fanta body, and the “Kazi” is a 303 DX Shaft and a 309 body. We don’t know the rest of the info. But I’m willing to bet it’s not going to compare to the Fujin for many reasons. One being the AM5s. But once again just my opinion. Hard to say until we all know the complete parts of the Kazi.

[The_Phantomnaut]

I was trying the SuperHwoarang kit with the Fujin lever and I don’t like it. I will blame the Fujin grommet and bushing due to how hard it is for my hand. I bet a lighter grommet will help a lot.

I wish Crown found a way to have their non DX-tops removable because I think those feel amazing for my hands and they look cool to boot. Putting that on a Golden Crown shaft would make it cool. On a related note, I have been noticing obvious cracks on my 303N lever’s collar. I think that part specifically will break sooner or later. I probably will have to buy a new 303N lever on Etokki since that seems to be the only place to get one nowadays (unless someone is down to sell me theirs). I might look into the Golden Crown kit in the future to get Green lever-like travel on a 303N or even do what @kkolding did with a Myoungshin shaft by shaving a millimeter to the Crown shaft.

Thanks. Speaking of SuperHwoarang & Sanjuk, how are those like? I couldn’t find anything on them.

I am new to Korean sticks, and they are not mainstream, so I don’t know how different they can be. Grommets are pretty basic. Though I suppose that can also be complemented with other factors. Shaft measurements, actuator, switches… How much notable variance do these custom models have from the base model?

Well it depends on the lever. Something like the Green Game Land lever, a modified Myoungshin lever, emphasizes longer travel due to the shaft’s smaller diameter. To avoid having diagonal zones that are too large, the lever utilizes a smaller actuator, that also expands neutral zone, and also is equipped with now discontinued Panasonic switches to help round things out. For the Fujin lever, the biggest draw is that the switches are placed closer to the middle like a Taeyoung lever since it uses a custom switch plate. The Fujin’s grommet, just a normal Myoungshin one, also has a special bushing core that makes tension a bit tougher. The Crazy Dongpal has a smaller actuator which helps with a larger neutral zone without changing too much of everything else.

Also here are links to the SuperHwo lever kit and the Sanjuks parts (requires Naver login and joining that Naver page).

So I played with japanese sticks a while back and switched to Hitbox and now I’m really liking my Korean Golden Fanta. I’m having some issues learning to play Sim on it (complex movements). I’m getting better and better, but my question is, to tell if there’s an issue with your microswitches, you would just hold the stick in all 8 directions to see if there’s a “flutter” or issue with them right? Like I saw Rip had a bad Sanwa stick and when he held down/right or down/left, it would flutter to left or right without him ever moving the stick out of the diagonal position. As long as my stick holds each position that means the switches are good right? Is there ever an instance where quick movements can make a microswitch not work or is the the test I mentioned always a good barometer? Please “at” me in your reply. Thanks in advance for any responses. Thanks!

i will use some new switches which will be tested by pro and many Korean tekken user so u don’t have to worry about the poor condition of switches !!

I tried almost all the switches used in korea for lever

it will have best optimization for Tekken

Can’t wait to hear more of this!

[TekkenKazi]

@TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don’t know how good/different kaze v3 is.

I suggest you use the search function, and read through the pages here. You will find all that out. Short answer. Kaze is better than stock Fanta /or Crown. But it’s all personal preference. That’s only my opinion. The 309 Helpme has different versions. It’s crowns attempt to make a lever as close to a Fanta as possible, with their parts.
The Fujin is built off a Myoungshin Fanta body, and the “Kazi” is a 303 DX Shaft and a 309 body. We don’t know the rest of the info. But I’m willing to bet it’s not going to compare to the Fujin for many reasons. One being the AM5s. But once again just my opinion. Hard to say until we all know the complete parts of the Kazi.

Actually 303,305,307,309 uses same bat grip so u don’t have to worry about it and also i think i will change the bat grip

actually i use that because there are many grip at arcade center that i installed my “Kazi” so i wanted to find it easy.

• “Kazi” is keep changing and another bat grip is in process

[TekkenKazi]

@TekkenKazi I would be interested in the lever if it is anything close to the Fujin lever in terms of performance then I would be interested. Would like to know the differences between stock myoungshin or stock 309helpme . I still don’t know how good/different kaze v3 is.

I can’t say how “similar” but, it has wider neutral zone and diagonal zone than fujin v2

and i will post more after i redesign my things

thanks

[kidda]

Hey guys I recently bought a Crown 309MJ for my qanba and i’ve noticed that when moving the joystick to the right direction i sometimes get a “crunch” or “click” type feel/noise before the switch activates. I’ve taken it apart and turned the spring upside down and around etc etc but it always comes back. Not a deal breaker but its bothering me a lot. I assume its the spring maybe slipping out of the grommet or rubbing on itself that is making the noise as there isn’t really anything else in there. Anyone experienced anything like this this before or know how I might go about fixing it?

[AznSensation45]

I can’t say how “similar” but, it has wider neutral zone and diagonal zone than fujin v2

and i will post more after i redesign my things

thanks

Thank you very much for the news. Seems like it will be a good lever to consider so I am excited to hear more. Will be waiting for your updates.

[zero_requiem]

@thephantomnaut you can always try a myoungshin bushing and golden fanta shaft inside the fujin to reduce the tension but will have to modify fujin actuator tho. Works really well imo

[VarmintBaby]

Hey guys I recently bought a Crown 309MJ for my qanba and i’ve noticed that when moving the joystick to the right direction i sometimes get a “crunch” or “click” type feel/noise before the switch activates. I’ve taken it apart and turned the spring upside down and around etc etc but it always comes back. Not a deal breaker but its bothering me a lot. I assume its the spring maybe slipping out of the grommet or rubbing on itself that is making the noise as there isn’t really anything else in there. Anyone experienced anything like this this before or know how I might go about fixing it?

Have you tried swapping out that switch that you are activating when it makes that noise? It might be the switch itself.

[dblbeast]

For the Crown 309:

Are you able to acquire a tension inbetween Crown’s 35A & 45A silicone grommets using the Golden Crown mod set?

[VarmintBaby]

For the Crown 309:

Are you able to acquire a tension inbetween Crown’s 35A & 45A silicone grommets using the Golden Crown mod set?

@wazwuz I hope your dad is doing better. Hey, have you thought about offering a 40A grommet for the Crown. I’m seeing A TON of people say that 35A is too soft and 45A is too hard. Offering a 40A would help a ton of people out and be lucrative for your business as well. Just a suggestion. Take care man!

[zero_requiem]

@VarmintBaby the older golden fanta batches had the 40A grommet but it’s discontinued meow.

[dblbeast]

For the Crown 309:

Are you able to acquire a tension inbetween Crown’s 35A & 45A silicone grommets using the Golden Crown mod set?

@wazwuz I hope your dad is doing better. Hey, have you thought about offering a 40A grommet for the Crown. I’m seeing A TON of people say that 35A is too soft and 45A is too hard. Offering a 40A would help a ton of people out and be lucrative for your business as well. Just a suggestion. Take care man!

I messaged wazwuz recently. He simply said the Golden Crown grommets feel different because they have a different design, and I would have to play around with a combination of the spring + grommet. I believe someone in this thread said a ±5 shore A may exist going from manufacturer to manufacturer, but… surely, someone who has tried the Golden Crown grommets must have tried Crown’s official 35A & 45A grommets and can comment on them. Heck, if wazwuz is afraid to comment, he must know someone who can speak their opinion.

The grommet is definitely the main factor affecting my performance. The spring is merely complementary. If anyone can guarantee me a grommet that feels like it’s inbetween Crown’s official 35A & 45A, I’ll gladly pay $20 for it. I just want to finally perfect my stick after struggling for years (only switched from JLF --> Crown recently).

[jey-are]

So I read earlier that SRK forums are going to be no more by the end of January. I’m bummed because without it, I wouldn’t know as much about Korean levers as I currently do. Curious as to where to migrate to keep current discussions. I read that there’ll possibly be a SRK Reddit but who knows.

SRK Forums to close at the end of January 2018 [UPDATED]

[masked_rider]

@jey-are Just came here to post about that. I think it would be prudent to find a new home for this thread, and potentially archive any useful information (some of @Agieze posts come to mind). As for a new home, /r/fightsticks might make the most sense. Maybe even a K-stick Discord?

[Hassun]

Damn I owe so much to the SRK forums for tech support and information. This is a huge bummer.
Considering its importance in the history of the FGC I think they should at least archive the entire thing.

[LordFu]

Yeah, this is really unfortunate. I’ve learned nearly everything I know about arcade parts on this forum. It’s been a great resource.