@wazwuz PM sent
Hello everyone , ive made a ābigā discovery today , messing around with my kaze v2 and v1 , i had them open for modding purposes and i had forgotten wich had wich ( actuators , microswitches and body ) so beeing confused and didnt wanna mess the setup up since i wanted to put them back together , i msged Kaze about what to do etc , anyway after abit of discussion i found out that some versions of kaze v2 and v1 bodys are Green arcades bodys and they do have a difference from myoungshins on the microswitches placements (also could someone with kaze v2 or v1 take some pictures cause except my shit phone camera dont have other source of making pictures post an opened up one to investigate if its true) , Kaze english were poor and didnt give much into details he also said that they were 3 versions of Green Lever at the time but since the owner and creator of the lever got older he just used myoungshin body and didnt customize it for the newer cabinets . he said one version wich was the best and he thinks Knee and chanel is using is with combined latex and metal spools it gives the shaft pressure and fits tight wich the other wobbles.He mentioned that the spool is a big problem of korean levers and can make or destroy the performance of a lever.
So the question is wich version have @wazwuz measured?
I also went str8 away after the convo and tested the GF Green Shaft 7mm and indeed it was perfect fit i installed am51630s in it the feel is the best ive had in a lever after Fujin .But there is something wierd going on i believe with the measurements because i dont have tools to measure i put the shafts side by side with kaze and kaze is shorter in length.
Also big problems with diagonals i had to dig and be almost 99% perfect to hit diagonals , i experimented abit with down microswtich i put an A2 as Kaze always used with the original setup , it was a bit better but not playable imho
If if could fix teh diagonal problems i think thats the best lever id have for mishima play .
Anyone have ideas ? that i could try ? @zero_requiem @ykd @The Phantomnaut
wow i didnāt know if there was multiple version of myungshin. but if they do that, they need to invest plastic injection molding which is not cheap.
maybe he point to green arcade lever, yes it have different version like @kkolding mention before. but it is hard to tell which one is which since the creator donāt share their mod.
Hi, how would one be able to purchase a Fujin lever that ships internationally? I used the lever once and really enjoyed playing on it, and now I would like to purchase if for myself. However, usually they are sold out when I search online to look for one to purchase. Can any one give me information on how to acquire one if/when they become available again. Additionally any information on sellers of the Kaze lever would also be appreciated!
Both on Makestick. You will have to check daily when they get available. Kaze lever is easier to get back in stock while Fujin isnāt.
Do you know how frequently they get put back up, and the last time they were?
Honestly, I would give it once a month before they restock at least one of them. You can always tune in here since someone will probably mention it. The Kaze lever was available earlier in the month but as for the Fujin, I believe the last time I saw them in stock was either the last week of November or the first week of January and they were limited.
how do you tell the difference between the v1 and v2? i just picked up the kaze recently and i assume its the v2. it feels really good , alot like wazās green setup with a shorter throw.
ah ok, my kaze has a red battop, so i guess thats the v1. i assume you are looking for pics of the switch positions to compare?
hey guys, Iām about to get an etokki case and wanted to try the fujin v2(if I can ever get it) just wanted to know of the fujin actually fits in the etokki case, thanks.
It fits fine.
I thought the Kaze V1 is a modified Crown 307. I am probably wrong. Also the top doesnāt necessarily matter.
Maybe try using a V1623A3 switch?
If you got it recently you likely have the Kaze V3. If itās usung Gersung A3 Switches on the Lever, then youāll know.
@eyeamg0dly you have the kaze v3 if its red top and a greenstar on one of the sides yes the first kaze it has blacktop short in length shaft and it seems is just a myoungshin .
@EndRant yes it fits perfectly
@the phantomnaut you mean fully a3s installation or just for down input ?
thanks for the answers guys
So I got my Golden Core the other day. Iāll do a mini review here. Keep in mind, Iām not the best at reviews so its more of my synopsis on the thing. Anyway, itās super easy to install. I use the stock Myoungshin shaft as I prefer the battop on it and I I use the green grommet for my Golden Fanta mod and I just swapped out the bushing from that with the Golden Core bushing. The āopenā part faces down into the stick while the flatter part is facing up. I put the stiffest spring in when I first got it but I tried the others tonight. I prefer the stiffest one. As someone said here, it kinda feels like a jlf 2lb spring. Anyway it REALLY DOES reduce the wobble in the stick. The stick feels so much tighter that Iām loving it! A guy thatās used to playing on Korean sticks has probably gotten used to the way a lot of them wobble, especially the Fanta, but this thing really makes it feel like youāre using a more expensive tighter stick. I hope WazWuz is able to provide more for lovers of the Fanta so everyone can experience this. I give it an A+ for a mod and Iām really happy @wazwuz let me in on it. Thanks for reading!
Edit: Also, since the stick is tighter, Iām finding Iām having an easier time doing instant air teleports with Dhalsim in SF5. The stick wobble was messing me up but its a lot easier now!
Hello folks,
First and foremost thank you for all the contribution you guys have made on this thread. I have been a long time lurker but finally decided to make an account to share my findings on the fanta stick.
I was previously using a myoungshin fanta airbag with a taeyoung shaft (not sure about exact measurement), stock grommet, AM5s and a stock myoungshin actuator (16.5mm).
The shaft and the actuator were completely snug and I was not able to roll the battop without using excessive force.
The diagonals were tough to hit and I felt like jfsr (f,df+4) with Hwoarang was impossible to do consistently on 2p side (been practicing since t6-ttt2)
Then upon hearing the beauty of the GFM and the reviews on its setups, I decided to try:
Taeyoung Base
8mm Shaft
15mm Actuator
Blue Grommet 55A
A2 for the down
AM5 for the rest
Pure Silicone Grease on the lower shaft and on the silicone rubber
At first, I felt uncomfortable with the rolling battop compared to a stiff one since it rolled with ease.
It took time trying to relearn 1p KBD because of the deeper throw and engage; I definitely felt that on moves like jet upper that required back and forward quickly.
It gives me more leeway to activate the switches since the actuator is smaller.
Bottomline, I have fallen in love with the precision of the inputs, most especially the diagonals. It is such a blessing it brings tears to my eyes.
I can jfsr consistently both 1p and 2p then never before (4/5). Although, this is a different stick that operates differently to what I am used to, the positives heavily outweigh the negative preferences.
I will continue to learn and utilize this setup as it has revitalized my way of playing Tekken.
Once again, thanks for the great craftsmanship who made GFM and the testers who give their best info on the k-joystick parts.
Canāt wait for the Green Fanta Mod and the Golden Core!
@blangos
It is advised to lubricate brass/bronze sliding bearings with silicone grease or oil if available, but NEVER apply silicone lubricant on silicone resin parts!! It is not compatible! Alas that is what you did, and you ruined it to a certain point (depends how much you put).
The effect is not immediate, but the silicone resin and the silicone grease COMBINE unfortunately, and the result is the silicone elastomer is modified and softens sometimes considerably, even if you wipe off the excess grease .
I posted on this thread a chart some time ago showing which lubricants and elastomers were compatible, you can use the forum search engine.
Wazwuz voted āmarvelousā for the post but he probably was speed-reading your post and skipped the part where you lubricated the silicone grommet itself. He never said to do that, but only the LOWER part of the shaft, that is the junction between shaft and actuator to avoid grinding and wear.
Personally if I had to lubricate the golden kit parts, using a silicone grommet, I would use a non silicone based lubricant, just to extend the life of the custom silicone grommet to the max. Simply by replacing parts for for the sake of experimenting/modding, if silicone grease has been applied, users will inevitably touch the silicone grommet in the process with hands that have some silicone grease film on them.
It is NATURAL RUBBER grommets that benefit from being smeared with silicone grease, NOT the SILICONE RUBBER grommets!!
Big difference.
ā¦ have any of you ever notice a gap between actuator and microswitch hinge lever that seemed a fraction more in one direction versus the other 3? Like after trying different switches, and still getting the same result?
Is it common to see people reporting that the plastic base mold (where you drop the microswitches and line up the holes) isnāt universal among the other switch spots? Say on a myoungshin versus the others.
Just curious. Is this why some people prefer fujinās, Taeyoung, and crownās bottom end?
I swear the more I look at mine and carefully examine my throw. The actuation seems further towards the left. I tried different switches. I tried really pushing it in (inwards towards the actuator) as far as possible before tightening down.
Looking at it, the space between hinge lever and actuator seem equal for up down and right. But left, the gap seems a hair more. Even after changing switches.
Any thoughts? Do you guys experience or had experienced the same with your Myoungshin bottom?
@Agieze
Thanks, Iāll take off the silicone greese on the silicone grommet, I misread the post on page 90.