Having used the green version of the rubbers for a while I started to notice that it was sticking to the plastic surface of the inside of the plastic inclosing of the lever.
It was annoying to handle so I to fix this I coated the rubber with potato flour. This made the rubber act completely different as it does not stick to the inner surface of the case.
I would recommend trying this out as will give your rubber spring a better consistency.
I only used potato flour because thatās what I had laying around I think the most optimal choice would be talcum powder?
I tried this switch support fanta (havenāt tried a fanta without the switch support before, i am comparing it to the fujin with 7mm Waz shaft and stock fujin actuator), wow i must say it is really good, i can 2p KBD alot better. Im using same setup, fujin stock actuator and golden fanta 7mm shaft. If i had to choose one or the other i really couldnt. I like them both. I think intial impression the fanta with switch support i liked more than the fujin but i am more used to the fujin. Now im really curious to try the fujin with a 14.5m actuator. I can do everything about the same with the fanta with switch support, but 2p kbd felt much more natural to input and iām talking around 30 percent better without even touching down input accidentally. My 1p wavedash is really good. i am missing diagonals sometimes when going really fast but i think it is just because iām used to the fujin and my electrics were abit better before, but this is just inital use. This is only after 30 mins of tinkering with it so it is only natural.
Jumping form the tae to the fujin was a big change for me in which iāve gotten used to the fujin. But the jump from the fujin to the Fanta was seemless, it felt natural. I guess they are the same base.
Ok with Waz 14.5, 1p wavedash was much better, had better time here in wavedashing. KBD overall was quite abit harder, inputs did feel abit more janky too e.g when starting my wavedash id get alot of forward and down and miss the diagonals at the start (this easily due to my lack of trial with it and not using enough force), this was again a 30 minute initial impression. I noticed i had to use a different E-clip too, like marios mentioned, there was a wobble, changed the e clip and it was better. Overall when using Fujin actuators i had to use different e clips.
Comparing the two, i really like the fanta switch support with the stock fujin actuator (it is larger its either 14.9 or 14.75), iād say it would go tied with the fujin +7mm setup and stock actuator (i could be bias because iām more used to the fujin). Some of the small problems i had with the fujin stick, i think if i could try a few sizes smaller (between the stock and 14.5 or 14.5 itself) it would be perfect.
I used the soft red makestick gromett and the black bushing on both setups, worked perfectly for both.
potato flour /starch goes bad after a while and clogs moving parts.
Talcum powder without perfume is ok but stearic acid in powder lubricates better (and is cheap as well), you can get some at your local pharmacy, it is used in the elastomer industry and itās even compatible with silicone grommets.
Iād still be weary with powders though due to the presence of the microswitches which arenāt sealed.
If you plan on using only the original fujin grommet or any other natural rubber grommet, you can simply use silicone oil (not the type with additives for other aplications,just the pure thing, donāt soak it though, be reasonable, don;t forget the switches are just under ) , it works wonders, is compatible with the natural rubber and protects it , itās often used for that purpose. It extends the service life of the grommet if you condition it regularly when the oil ādriesā off. There are special silicone oil based lubricants for that purpose, but the pure thing is enough.
If you plan on using silicone oil though, youāll never be able to use silicone grommets one day in the same lever though, the residues will react with the grommet.
@zero_requiem wait what , didnt your fujins v2 come with 1610 ? also can you make a picture i never seen a 1660 how do they feel is it possible to find em ?
@Marios Theyāre very soft switches and imo not worth looking for. There is a place in Europe that sells them but I forget what itās called. Donāt have any pics on hand so just Google āam51662c53nā. The only difference visually the prongs are parallel on the side rather than diagonal from each other.
Iāve noticed on the Myoungshin that, at max throw, the actuator pushes the microswitch lever against the microswitch body. Even with the largest GF shaft and the 14.5 mm actuator from the Green set, the microswitch will bottom out before the shaft hits the neck gate. Given that this is normal behaviour, can it be reasoned that having different sized shafts to be essentially irrelevant?
All I know is that my diagonals will lack consistency with a 10 mm shaft and 14.5 mm actuator on a myoungshin.
Like wazwuz said, he prefers to ride the collar. So it can be reasoned towards his preference.
Me? I prefer not to bang the collar so much. Especially in dashes and ewgfs in tekken. It makes a lot of noise and can potentially annoy those around me trying to sleep. So steps I would take are to use 7 mm shaft and no dustwasher. Itāll minimize the smack and clack a little more.
So, therefore I think different shaft sizes can be reasoned. Towards preference. Sorry if my input didnāt help lol.
@āmasked riderā Even after the actuator hits the body you can still continue pushing the shaft towards the collar because the shaft is not locked in place, itās only held by the bushing and grommet. If the actuator hitting the body was providing full restriction then with a 7mm shaft you wouldnāt be able to push it anywhere near the collar. Smaller shafts serve a purpose because thereās much less contact when pushing diagonally due to the squarish shape of the body opening.
Every k stick has the āissueā to some extent and itās impossible to avoid completely because without it you could press too hard against the collar and damage the microswitch, it acts as a microswitch guard. The only way to reduce the issue as far as I know is to make the bottom end of the actuator as small as possible without allowing the microswitches to be pushed in too much.
Personally I do wish the bottom diameter (the part the contacts the body) of the smaller gf actuators were smaller to reduce contact against the body though, but some people may like the feeling of the contact.
I was thinking the shaft size was more for adjusting throw distance, but after playing around with it more, I realize that shaft size affects diagonal coverage more than the throw distance.
But regarding throw, have you considered custom collars?
Thanks, this was exactly the explanation I was looking for. Being that the microswitches are fixed in place, I canāt think of any way to make full use of the collar without either the actuator hitting the body or the microswitches being pushed farther than they should. The only alternative would be to make the collar smaller but that would defeat the purpose of having a thinner shaft. I suppose this is why the 309 has such a short throw considering the size of its actuator.
recieved my 7mm shaft/acuator from waz last week and its very nice in my fujin setup 14.5 acuator is also fine in that setup not having any problems.
However am i missing something because the same setup 7mm shaft/14.5 acuator in a regular fanta feels ugly as hell cant hit any diagnals and the throw and switch activation is basically ride the collar
i have tried both 35/45 gauge grommit running am5 switches and also switch support still very sluggish
is the green setup better suited to the tayoung body ?
I think the most optimal choice would be talcum powder?