@ykd
MJ is not collarless, it is “chopped” collar according to Samducksa/Crown. Think of it like a reduced height collar that is protruding from the top. Collarless Crown sticks are not the MJ type, the true collarless have absolutely nothing protruding above the mounting plate.
Got my fujin v2 today, I really like how it feels stock in terms of the collar and switches. Overall the modded tae feels better with 8mm shaft and 15mm actuator. I think with the appropriate mods to the fujin it will be my favourite, would like to try a 7mm or 8mm shaft, hopefully when waz 7mm comes in the mail I’ll give it a shot.
With the stock setup was too hard to get kbd, I kept getting a down input and since it’s close together, not much to differentiate between diagonal and other inputs, would definitely need a different shaft/actuator combo
If I bore out the fujin actuator to use with golden Fanta shaft, would I be able to still be able to use it with the fujin shaft? Man the clear battop looks sexy. Was thinking to try the stock fanta actuator but I think it will be too big for my likings.
Anyone noticed on the fujin that the am5 metal hinge is looser than a stock am5 switch (same model too) ? Once the actuator is put on I don’t think it would make a difference but just curious. The stock am5’s I have, the hinges are firm in one place while the fujin ones are flappy or have quite abit wiggle room, even side by side it’s noticeable visually.
Also does anyone have any preference between the soft etokki grommet (black) and the red soft makestick grometts?
Edit: And wow makestick have really stepped up their service, quick and easy process this time.
I’m curious as to the value of the tension of the etokki soft grommet
congrats on the fujin purchase! my fav setup with this is 8mm shaft /14.7 acuator makes a huge notcible difference should be better when i get a 7mm shaft. You should still be able to use acuator if you bore it out will just be slightly looser on shaft
difference between red and black soft grommit is one is rubber the red is silicone and the silicone being a different feel compared to rubber i personaly prefer rubber grommits on both fanta/crowns as they all feel more precise but each to there own
wonky/rattling panasonics is normal and i would’nt use metal or 16mm fanta acuators on fujin you may damage the plate
if you looking for diy acuators google: non threaded nylon spacers
Hey guys does anyone if a Crown 309MJ fits in a HRAP4 stick? I know it supports Japanese mounting but I’m worried about fitting inside the case.
Thank you
It will fit fine.
Technically you should be able to use the Fujin shaft but it might create a slightly bigger hole so it might act funky. As for the grommets, the IST grommet feels just a bit softer than the Taeyoung which I assume is Shore A 35 rating.
For anyone interested this is what i mean by the difference in the metal hinges of the switches from what i got from the fujin compared to what i got seperately.
Btw if anyone is interested for some AM5, i got a bunch from etokki, i emailed them asking about it, they couldnt change the sticks original switch (i bought a tae) but they said they could add these switches to my order, and so they did. I’m not sure if they have some left but this was roughly a month ago. Its worth a shot for anyone seeking them.
Cheers to all replies
Ah true, I wasn’t sure how to look at that. I was actually hoping you would pop in since you know most of the technical stuff people are asking here.
@m_abdalla3 If you bore the actuator like I did with a golden fanta shaft the actuator will still feel tight on fujin. Grats on getting a fujin! I find doing kbd the easiest on stock fujin but after a long session my hands feel like they’re broken.
I tried asking Etokki about it a couple days ago, Matt said that they got flooded with requests and sold out. Too bad we didn’t hear about that a little sooner.
Back to the drawing board. Oh well. Had to try anyways. Thanks for the heads up though dude. How are you liking the Fujin V2?
Fujin v2 stock setup, electrics was not too bad, but yeah the kbd I couldn’t get b,dB, b, I would always get a down and I have no issues normally doing it on either side, that’s why I was skeptical that it could be maby due a switch? It was only roughly 30 mins but I was really trying to get a clean continuous b,db,b. I might try to change the switch first to trouble shoot, before experimenting with smaller shafts. Overall feel though is great with the collar size and switch placement, I really favour it in that aspect
are there any you would recommend? most of the ones ive been looking at are too small. im really tempted into turning my rotary tool into a lathe for something like this.
309MJ and Kaze v3 just arrived and i did some quick try on it.
Both feels really light (in grommet) compared to the taeyoung, i noticed that kaze shaft is shorter too compared to taeyoung as i can grab less.
I noticed i can hit diagonal easier now with either stick and my iws have become very smooth compared to taeyoung, not sure is it because of the softer grommet or because the actuator is now better as taeyoung’s kind of bad, have not tried on Mishima char yet, so not sure about EWGF.
But i did notice the crouch switch can be more sensitive, will try to throw in A2 on it later and see how it goes. But so far am really liking the kaze.
May i know what is kaze based on? is the base myoungshin?
I believe the original Kaze lever was a mod for Crown 307 levers. The second and third versions are influenced by the Myoungshin lever. They do carry the same collar as a Myoungshin but the bottom is a design by IST.
Thank you for the info! Im liking the lever so far, wonder how does it compare to Fujin.
Sorry for the questions but do anyone know:
- roughly what is the grommet tension for Kaze? Its very light so i think its 25A, its the red default grommet.
- Is the grommet crown style or fanta style.
- And anyone know the size of the crown/fanta e-ring? is it 2mm or 4mm, i have been having problem removing them. Do share if there is any good tools to remove it or any tips, my fanta kit is arriving tmr but with the problem of removing e clip i dont think i can experiement as much as i want.
Thanks again!
@eyeamg0dly i have seen a few 15mm outside diamter ones i like bit hard to recommend you one as i dont know what lever you would be putting it into?
if you can lathe one go for it the nylon one im using in my fujn is 14.7mm and i trimmed the length with a dremmel its holding up just fine not wearing down just scratched from the c-clip
i didn’t buy myn either it was just found lying in my tool box and just lucky the size i wanted
I believe it’s a 25A grommet because I have IST’s FLF lever which has the same exact grommet and that felt super light. The Kaze lever is more on being the Myoungshin Fanta-style lever. Honestly I never really look into e-ring size since, at least for Korean levers, they look more or less interchangable. I just use a small money clip with blunt edges to remove the clips.
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I believe it’s a 25A grommet because I have IST’s FLF lever which has the same exact grommet and that felt super light. The Kaze lever is more on being the Myoungshin Fanta-style lever. Honestly I never really look into e-ring size since, at least for Korean levers, they look more or less interchangable. I just use a small money clip with blunt edges to remove the clips.
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Thanks again! My Golden Fanta Mod kid just arrived, i would like to experiment on it for whole day tomorrow but i have problem opening the clip.
I used flat head screwdriver to remove few of it yesterday but it ended up scratching a lot of other parts of the fight stick, so i am thinking of waiting until i get hold of a proper e-clip remover before i start modding my taeyoung lever.
I found proper e-clip remover made by tamiya (for remote control cars) but there is only 2mm and 4mm size which i think is too big for our eclip.