Korean arcade parts discussion

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I found a “gash” on my grommet. is something like this enough to cause a difference? It’s on the upper part

@Nostromo21 an easy way to remove the e-clip is to use a medium sized stubby flat head screw driver. Use a corner of the flat head to remove e-clip by sticking it inside the tiny gaps and pry it out against the shaft. To put them back on use the flathead to push it in by simply pressing against e-clip with flat end.

A few months late to the party here. I just ordered A3 microswitches for a 309mj that had the shitty A2 switches. Does it make a noticeable difference?

are there any potential kstick options for a Qanba Obsidian?

You can use a Crown 309MJ lever. You might have seen Saint have a normal Korean lever on his Obsidian but what he has is a custom panel. He also has a mounting plate that can accept a normal lever but also adhere to the mounting standard.

thanks, bookmarked it on Focus Attack! I’ll probably buy it after the holidays if I have any money left over from Christmas shopping.

@LittleJimmy1983 Yes the diagonal zone becomes larger, with the a2s the diagonal zone is very small. a2s don’t work well with short throw sticks like the 309mj.

Also does anyone have experience with drilling or cutting out parts of the bottom center of a k stick? I don’t like how much the actuator hits against it especially with the smaller golden shafts.

I finally found a plier that is quite handy for removing eclip!
Been experimenting with the GFM on my Taeyoung and so far the result have been really great! The 15mm actuator does wonder on the taeyoung! My diagonal is now really easy to hit, my IWS improved substantially! Thanks @wazwuz !! Will try the green setup later.

But i am quite surprised as i am using the green grommet (45A), but it is much softer than my seasoned "soft grommer rubber i got from default Taeyoung. I suspect the default soft rubber from Taeyoung is 55A.

At the same hardness, silicone tend to feel softer than latex. Don’t mind about the shore/hardness rating, use the one you are comfortable with.

Nope. For silicone the real danger is cut, beacuse silicone have low tear strenght properties, it can grow small cut into much bigger cut easilly

Oh. Then that is a cut then. If I bend the silicone too much it can get larger.

Hey there, i have never mod my myoungshin fanta before, now that i bought the golden fanta mod, what are the tools i need? Is a screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver sufficient?

A small flathead screwdriver or pliers to remove the clip and 1 or 2 cross screwdrivers to unscrew the screws on the body of the lever and the the lever itself from the arcade stick.

Yes if it a cut. But i don’t see any cut on your pic. Only a chiped (clean cut) not open cut. So it is safe.

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sorry it wasn’t clear in the picture. here’s the cut outlined. you can actually open it up.

it’s all good I’m in the process of getting a new one

Crown finally releases their Crazy Dongpal lever: http://hibal.tistory.com/1090

Basically it’s a modified version of the 303 lever based on his liking. I am gonna assume the actuator is different from the 303 and even the 309. The switches is a Gersung V1623A3 set. The grommet bushing is white which might not necessarily matter. It also uses the Infiltration lever’s removable transparent tops; makes sense since the Infiltration lever and this one have the DX designation. Also the shaft seems to be normal diameter and is gold.

Hibal seems to be using the MJ model, I do wonder if there is a normal version with the 303’s wider funnel collar. Maybe we will wait and see either on Makestick/IST or whatever store that will carry it in the future.

Chanel also installed one on one of his sticks. I think he still uses the TE2+ with the Green lever but I do wonder what he thinks of the Crazy Dongpal lever. https://twitter.com/tekkenchanel/status/937574191213056000

I browsed an old tekkenzaibatsu post from 2006. Laugh gave this information: “The kind of Fanta that I’ve been selling are the MyoungShin Fantas (aka new Fantas). These sticks have a short knob and a smaller throw. The possible colors for the knob are green and red. Black is getting super rare.”

I wish the color options where the same today :confused:

EDIT: @“The Phantomnaut” I have a 303MJ but I only use it for spare parts. Is there anything different from the 309 except the actuator?

A2’s are good switches as long as you are using small actuators. A3’s are good on 309 because the actuator is very big but if you were to use A3’s on a 14.5mm actuator it’s going to feel terrible.

EDIT: The reasoning behind why I suggest ppl to try A2 for down when using A5M set up is because with diagonals having a lot smaller range on a2 it makes cd a million times faster without having to do wider motions that you would normally do on am5s. This set up is best used on fujin v2, myoungshin and taeyoung. I don’t recommend this on 309 or kaze lever.

Just got my Golden Crown parts after a mail mishap, and am loving the blue grommet/largest actuator/standard shaft setup. @wazwuz is a genius; thank you for making these sets!

Aside from obvious changes, the grommet is 25A.