@Notalefty I had this issue as well with my Fanta. I ended up putting some grease on the shaft of the stick where it contacts the rubber grommet then reassembled it. That seemed to solve my problem.
kkolding is right, generally rubber vibration mounts and flexure rubber grommets have a bore that is slightly tapered, so if you donāt orient it correctly, it may rub excessively on one side .
The powder he noticed is probably magnesium stearate or talc, these products are used to prevent sticking (as mold release agents) thus reducing coef of friction (and squeaking also).
I would NOT use a lubricant to reduce squeaking noises unless I know what rubber is used exactly. That you can check on the web (such as on this chart http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-5
or this one http://www.cmrubber.com/pdf/elastomer_compatibility_chart.pdf
some elastomers are incompatible with certain oils and will crack, or soften and or decompose) . A half decomposed rubber loses its resilience and degrades very fast (or remains very soft ).
****A standard silicone oil with no additives will be compatible with the natural rubber of the myoungshin natural rubber grommet and also with the nitrile grommets made by wazwuz (you can use also mineral oil with nitrile), but silicone oil will not be compatible with the LSR silicone grommets in ST crowns and āairbagā joysticks in which case it would be better to use a stearate or talc, thatās what pros use (magnesium stearate can be obtained at your pharmacy) .
*****animal fat & vegetable oils are not compatible with standard grade natural rubber such as myoungshin grommets.
I planned to go with this expensive branded stuff because it seemed idiot proof. I havenāt purchased it yet since it wonāt dispatch until Monday at the earliest. That said it would actually be cheaper, and less risky (as an idiot) to just buy an entirely new Myoungshin joystick to replace the one I have, if they are ready to go.
That the stuff most people use, Shin-Etsu or people use Dowcorningās Mollykote. The good thing about buying that tube is that would be a life time supply. Unless your business/ job was refurbishing/repairing sticks and arcade machines that tube last forever. You only need a pea sized amount for a stick.
Its a dry silicone base grease, there no petroleum products in it.
Honda dealerships use the same stuff to keep rubber seals weather striping from drying out on their cars and on their break pads.
I donāt know if itās necessary, but itās safe on rubber.
Looks like Koreaās Magiclab released the Magicstick M5 series. It uses a custom PS4 PCB with Sanwa buttons and a Seimitsu LS-58 clone. From what I noticed, the normal M5 is a bit smaller than the M5S. It doesnāt seem like it can fit a full Korean lever like its past models unfortunately. You probably have to buy it from Korea only as well.
The grease should arrive tomorrow. Just in advance, I am under the impression that it probably only need to be applied to the bottom rubber part of the stick just above the safety clip (thing), where the rubber part is going to make contact with the 4 metal switches? This would be the area where it was rubbing on my clothes while I was working with the buttons. Then itās a question of how much it needs and what to apply the grease with? Iāll end up making a complete balls of it if I donāt ask.
The problem is that you will probably fine little to no way to get it if you live outside Korea. Unless you are planning a trip anytime soon or know a friend, getting the Magicstick M5 is extremely hard to purchase.
Are you talking about the actuator? The black piece of plastic that contacts the metal switches. Thatās not what I would apply grease to. When my Myoungshin was making similar noises to yours, my issue was that there was too much friction between the shaft of the stick and the inside of the plastic portion of the rubber grommet inside the stick. When the shaft would spin against the inside of the grommet, it would squeak. I applied very little of the silicone based grease to the bottom part of the shaft that sat within the grommet and it solved my problem.
So long as you have the stock grommet, this should not be an issue. Refer to @agieze post for more info on potential issues between the rubber and the lubricant.
If Iām drastically incorrect on this one, please correct me.
Okay. Do I need to take the joystick apart somehow to apply it where you say? I donāt know exactly what that part is, if itās accessible or how to reach it. I took a picture in case it can be pointed out.
In my case, I took the e-clip off (this part: http://i.imgur.com/fe9P38C.jpg ). Then I removed the bat-top, placed a small amount of the silicone grease on the bottom half of the shaft which sits inside the rubber grommet in the stickās housing, put it back into the housing and replaced the e-clip. When you take the e-clip off, the actuator will probably come out (this part: http://i.imgur.com/O8fEoq5.jpg ) , so make sure to keep a hold of it.
You would probably be benefited by taking the stick out of the case and taking it all the way apart just to get a reference for how it goes together and where exactly the shaft contacts the rubber grommet. Itāll give you a better idea of where the friction is thatās causing the noise (at least in my case this was the issue).
hey guys, Iāll buy the joystick crown 307 ST sold by FA but I want to know if I need to change it to improve and if so what should I buy more? thanks for youre helpā¦
I finally worked up the nuts to take the stick apart. Last time I tried I fucked the Sanwa stick in such a fashion that I ended up just selling the entire arcade stick but the Korean stick parts are so much more simple to put together. For lack of anything to apply the silicone with I ended up just putting the stick shaft straight into the tube of grease, job done. Put it back together super easily, no springs and crap, just 1 piece of plastic and the washer. Sheās now super smooth and no more creaking, smooth as butter, even better than it was when I first got it so I guess it was a problem that was going to arise from use rather than something I did, because I donāt see how I couldāve touched the part that needed grease. For anyone else, the hardest part is literally just getting the e-clip off because I stabbed myself in the thumb with a flathead screwdriver.
Thanks for your patience fellas, couldnāt have figured it out without your help.
The Crown CWL-307FJ-JMS-ST Joystick - The durometer put the level of shore A rating of 55.
What is the Crown CWL-307F-J-W Joystick - What is it rated at?
What is the Crown 303-FK Korean Joystick - What is it rated at?
I was wondering because I wanted something closer to the Myoungshin Fanta stick without the mod for the 303. Of the three listed, which is the stiffest?
Yo! Iāve been trying out new sticks lately and recently bought a Crown 303N. This is my first Korean styled joystick and Iām wondering how long it takes to break one of these bad boys in. I also purchased the Myoungshin Crown configuration as well, I understand its supposed to imitate the Myoungshin Fanta.
So far, the Myoungshin Crown grommit is ridiculously stiff (heheh) and is very unusable for me.
I bought a Myoungshin Fanta grommit from etokki thinking it would fit into the Crown, but apparently it doesnāt? I honestly would like to try a Fanta, but I donāt want to have to mod my stick so that I can test out a Fanta :s
Is there a model of the Fanta I can use on my stick without having to mod the case?